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Silage

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Everything posted by Silage

  1. How did the slab go @divorcingjack,? I have two quotes for £80/m2 and one for £35 for polishing! And I thought that I would save plenty over tiling. OK, the cheaper quote may do but sounds like a one man band outfit.
  2. @Nickfromwales you're dead right. I was dreaming a little, still in a dilemma over TS vs UVC.
  3. Just opening up an old thread as it's close to crunch time, design sign off end of this month, build mid October. Have been wondering if I'm doing the right thing keeping the oil fired system boiler, I need a new oil tank anyhow and new flue. Boiler is 2009. Considering part of the existing cottage is early 1800's stone built and has rads (4 downstairs, 4 upstairs) would an ASHP be viable? The MBC extension would be ok I'm sure, although connected to the cottage so a little more heat loss than new build. DHW is the other consideration.
  4. @PeterW thanks. Should have mentioned that I won't require permanent access, also planning permission does not show. Maybe a grass reinforcement mesh could be left there but not sure it would be up to the job.
  5. My extension build is starting in September and preferred access is via a 25m/30m grassed area to the side of the existing house so I'm concern that concrete trucks, timber frame delivery etc will baulk at the soft ground (18 tonners have been ok in this dry weather). Trackway or ground mats may be the way to go but seem expensive. Any experience on sourcing, spec, buying or hiring would be appreciated. Or alternatives?
  6. Thanks @Temp, in that case I'll look to revise, i guess that mean no/partial fill in the posi-joist and a decent pir thickness above. Not clear on how I'd get partial fill though. As above any other comments welcome.
  7. @nod, @lizzie, @Temp, thanks for the response, great info. You've confirmed my thoughts and I'm pushing for warm over the proposed cold. Should still have 300mm posijoist that we can insulate below but tapered pir on top of deck now to create a warm roof. Let's see if TF company can agree to that. I'm talking to Bauder regarding bituminous roofing system although they can supply single ply. Lizzie, I'd be interested in your MBC detail Would you be able to pm me?
  8. Currently at structural engineering stage for building regs submission and looking at roof covering loading. The choice of waterproofing is subjective and well documented; single ply, bituminous, EDPM, GRP - seems that everyone has a preference or horror story. Anyway more fundamentally my design is showing a cold roof design for a new build flat roof extension (parapet roof), however having researched flat roofs the majority of advice is to go for a warm roof to eliminate interstitial condensation (eg Bauder, NFRC) . As I chose the timber frame provider to avoid this issue at the sole plate I'm thinking that I'm walking into this problem up above. Any experience or thoughts welcome.
  9. Thanks @JSHarris, your persuasive arguments on derisking in another thread did push me towards MBC (and away from SIPs). I'll try to drive some value out of MBC if I can based on the excellent info on this forum. Exchange rate may be playing into this perhaps, I know they have a UK supply base now, but presume that they are registered as an Irish company.
  10. @TerryE and @Barney12 thank you. I'm aware of the benefits and buy into them. I have a separate quote of £15.5k from MBC which seems outwith what I have read in this thread and other threads on this forum. Based on the range that I have gathered here I expected between £7k for a basic slab to £10k for the full monty. Slab is one level and a 7.5m x 9m box. Visiting MBC next week so I'll discuss. Of course I'll be clobbered for Vat as it's an extension albeit a 'standalone build ' joined by a link to the existing cottage so I'm keen to minimise cost. Has anyone polished the slab to use as final floor finish? Would that require a different mix?
  11. Opening up an old thread but does anyone else have an MBC slab cost per m2? As per @IanR above? I've got a 70m2 extension priced up and the initial MBC quote seems expensive.
  12. Really interesting observations, thanks @Nickfromwales, @dpmiller, @PeterW. As ever differing options regarding rads off the TS or direct from SB, most of the manufacturers talk of the advantage of running from the TS to minimise cycling although low return temperature maybe easier (if not controllable) to achieve through the rads direct? Some manufacturers are also claiming advantages form PHE for DHW over an internal coil like the Heatweb Heatbank Excel, although as @PeterW says another pump needed! Also noted that TMSThermal store are claiming better stratification through use of a mixing valve. Any more users out there? Would an Immersun be an advantage if feeding in Solar PV.
  13. @Nickfromwalesthanks for the reply. So a thermal store such as a McDonald Thermflow then (recommendations welcomed), the oil boiler heating the primary water via a coil and the rads and UFH drawing from this primary water via pumps (so 3 pumps in total inc system boiler pump). Immersion heater fed from PV. The DHW being mains pressure from the instantaneous coil heated by the primary side - what sort of flow rate do you get for showers though, it has to be an efficient coil for a power shower (x2?) doesn't it? Do you mean you need the TS hot for DHW even when you don't require heating? I guess this isn't too efficient due to standing heat loss but then I guess a conventional DHW cylinder has a similar issue? Standing heat loss may be more useful (or better tolerated) in the existing cottage downstairs bathroom than the highly insulated extension.
  14. Thanks Mr P. I' be done quite bit of work upstairs with insulation between rafters and insulated plasterboard, more to do but time and £. It's a stone cottage (15" rubble filled walls) though so no external cladding possible or desirable, internally small so reluctant to lose any more space. Airtightness not good so I'll look at that down the line particularly suspended floor section which is cold, I was wondering if I could extend the MVHR across the new build to the old. Anyhow priority is 2 storey space so efficient extension (at least until connected to the cottage, I need to think about how to minimise losses).
  15. Into detail design stage for an extension to existing stone cottage. Basically a timber clad 2 storey box with a glass link to replace single storey hotchpotch that is there now. MBC have quoted for a passive slab (ouch£!) but due to size restiction will go for u=0.14 walls (open panel , 300mm finished) and u=0.14 flat roof by MBC if I can deal with the + VAT price. Existing gravity DHW gravity fed with pump for shower, supplied by a 2009 year oil fired Grant 15/28 kw utility condensing system boiler that also runs the rads. The rads will have to stay in the cottage but how to run UFH in the extension.. Based on an MBC house build nearby I'm pretty sure I won't need any heating on 1st floor apart from electric towel rads and/or electric mat for en-suite (although they don't have a link to a drafty cottage so slight concern!) Yes I'd like to do away with the oil boiler but not sure I can considering the poor performing cottage and potential costs. I'd like to go mains pressure also so UVC, (mains flow rates of 40 L/m). If so then potential for solar PV or solar Thermal if worth the investment. Do I fit a buffer for UFH to stop short cycling? Any thoughts? Any alternative schemes?
  16. Deadalus, did you line with 89mm stud. How did I you affix to the brickwork? Presume that you use dpm between the stud and brick. When you said full fill did you leave an air gap between the brick and insulation?
  17. Thanks Peter, that's reassuring. These will be of that era and I'll be using lime mortar.
  18. RichS, yes I need to keep the external looking the same, but rebuild double skin or single with stud? I don't want to go thicker than 9"/10". My concern is how good a rainscreen single skin old brick or 4.5" sandstone.
  19. Can't do external as AONB Andy have to maintain appearance. At the moments the wall plates are supported by the brick/stone walls or dwarf wall/4x2 studs on the side that is weatherboarded. My proposal would be for a 4x2 stud wall attached to the inside of the single skin brick/stone with DPC in between, 25mm air gap then 75mm EPS, 32.5mm insulated plasterboard over. Wall plate straddles both. Don't think bond is a problem, the walls are in a pretty bad way and largely need rebuilding, they're only 5'/6' tall.
  20. I'm converting a small barn (9m x3.5m) for ancillary use, kids playroom, gym, office etc. Mixture of 9" double skin brick, 10" sandstone and weatherboard. So not to lose internal space and to insulate rather than use battens and insulated plasterboard has anyone taken out a layer of brick to make a single skin wall then built a stud wall on the inside with EPS between studs and insulated plasrboard (with vapour barrier) over (the stone would have to be halved to 4.5 inches or so). Cavity would be 25mm. Need underpinning and walls repaired/rebuilt.
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