revelation

To be fair he’s done some other work with different LVT that’s really good and there is no gaps. The LVT was invictus and you can see that in some cases planks are not 100% exact. I really wanted some advice on what could be done to remedy this situation.

Hi all I have had glue down herringbone LVT put into an upstairs bathroom. The installation was SP101 plywood screws down, then a feathering screed, the LVT. After installation, I noticed a few small gaps, the installer said that due to not every piece being perfectly the same size you can end up with gaps, unfortunately. But also stated that it should be fine as long as the water is quickly moped up, what is everyone else's experience with this? Would you recommend trying to fill the gaps with some sealant? Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thank you

I appreciate that. Makes life much easier not having them.

do you have an idea when the self closer rule was scrapped?

I wanted to be sure as my builder had done lots over the years and thinks I should have them. But would save time and money if they are not necessary as far as building control are concerned.

What are the regulations regarding self-closers (perkos) on fire doors? We have had a loft conversation, so we are installing fire doors everywhere. The issue we have is that the building inspector has said we do not need self-closers on the doors, my joiner says he always put them in. I have asked for the information from the BCO in writing but after asking several times still haven't received it. We have 30FD and all doors will have the intumescent strips. Thanks in advance

We have ended up with this in a lot of places for some strange reason. It happened during some painting in winter. So we put that down to it being cold. But it’s happened again now in summer too.

Hope someone can help, we have had our walls spray-painted. Almost everywhere that we have had caulked we have had this cracking, any ideas as to what is causing this and how could it be remedied? We have used the caulk pictured. Regards

We have 3 inch joists at 300mm centres so below the 18mm caber it’s really solid. I just want to know if gluing to 4mm ply would cause any issues at all? we didn’t glue the ply as we were sure how well it would adhere to the caberdek as its water resistant.

The 4mm is down with a few hundred screws down. So if it won’t cause any issues.

18mm caberdek. 4mm ply screwed down 150mm spacing 15mm engineered oak to be glued on top

I have laid some 4mm ply down to put some flooring on top. Screwed down to caberdek boards. It’s engineered oak herringbone flooring 15mm going on top . I was planning to glue it down with Sika wood floor glue (not water based) I have had my LVT fitter say that 4mm is not thick enough and it should be thicker. Said it was due to the underfloor heating. But that still didn’t make sense to me. has anyone one had experience in a similar situation?

I think due to the LED light strip that won't work. I am inclined to go towards a tinting/plastic film

My units are fairly low, we didn't go for a pelmit as that would have messed with the design, I was thinking of covering the bottom in tinting film which will hopefully create a barrier. It can be peeled away if I need to replace the LED light but that shouldn't be too often. Would that work.

We have a panel under the units that has been rebated for the LED Strip, I ran it for about a minute to test it and there was condensation under the unit. your unit looks higher than mine.

We have a dishwasher so washing will be minimal. I was thinking of covering the bottom in tinting film which will hopefully create a barrier.

Hi all We have a potential problem we have had some wall cabinets installed fairly low above our quooker boiling tap. Below the wall panels we also had it rebated for an LED light profile. Today we tried the tap and due to the steam that was emitted, it left a considerable amount of condensation on the bottom of the unit. I am concerned long term as the rebated panel above is not sealed. Is there anyone that has faced the same issue and is there any good fix?

The fitter used FBall F46 I think. It didn’t seem too heavy duty.

Ours is glue down, not floated.

Thank you, I appreciate the help.

In the end, we used scrapers, wire brushes and a mop with warm water. Took some hard work but got there in the end without a load of dust or expense.

I am thinking of ordering this. Proster Surface Grinding Dust Shroud for 5 Inch Angle Grinder with 125mm Diamond Grinding Cup Wheel https://amzn.eu/d/0D6P8Ly that maybe the quickest way of getting this done. And will try the warm water with a scourer too.

That what I was fearing. Would any kind of paint stripper liquid help loosen it up?

it was some dulux diamondmatt. Warm water and a scourer you think? wanted to have it done over the weekend so hire of a machine maybe tricky.

I hoping someone has an idea for a quick fix. Looking to lay a load of LVT down but before the FBall feathering gear goes down we have an issue. . The decorators when spraying the walls didn’t cover the concrete floor. So the floor is caked in overspray (seem to have got more on the floor than the walls and ceiling 😂) Any idea for quick removal with minimum dust. (The walls have been painted and the kitchen is fitted) A scraper does work but there is around 80sq m to do over this weekend so don’t fancy scraping it.