revelation

They were fit into the house we were renovating around 3 years ago. We have only been living here for 2 months. Yes I think they were glued into the stringer. As it’s towards the front of the step I am concerned it’s creating a weak point.

Thank you. My only concern is due to it being so close to the edge of the step that over time it will get worse.

I have had a stair tread that has a large crack in it. To the best of my knowledge nothing dropped on it and it’s been subject to normal usage. We have had areas where some gaps have occurred but that was to be expected with wood. But this is the first actual ‘crack/split’. What would be the best course of action to make sure it doesn’t get any worse. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the help. Every company who supply the stuff have said no to the idea of laying anything stone on sand. And have all said they must be laid on a cement mix, but didn’t give any sound reasoning as to why concrete blocks are ok but not real stone.

Thanks for the suggestion, they’re super expensive. And look a little better than concrete, but as you’ve suggested they have the longevity factor.

O

Thank you for the information. Doesn’t the video show the blocks being laid on a concrete mix using the cement stuff as a primer? As in my case the plan was to build up the driveway with 150mm of MOT, then sand (all compacted of course) then lay the blocks.

could you elaborate?

I am struggling to find suitable blocks for my driveway. I have been looking at blocks for my drive, I really don’t like the appearance of concrete paving blocks. Our plan was to lay on MOT/Sand as you would do with normal block paving. I have been advised that stone blocks shouldn’t be laid on sand, and should be on a wet mix. Is there any reason why concrete blocks are ok on sand but not a limestone block?

We are having a wall built in our garden and the front driveway. I wanted to run cable for future lighting, such as recessed wall lights. Some of the cables will be run underground and some between the brickwork so they won't be seen. What kind of cable would I need? My electrician is away, and my bricklayer has begun the footings for the wall, so I need to act quickly.

To be fair he’s done some other work with different LVT that’s really good and there is no gaps. The LVT was invictus and you can see that in some cases planks are not 100% exact. I really wanted some advice on what could be done to remedy this situation.

Hi all I have had glue down herringbone LVT put into an upstairs bathroom. The installation was SP101 plywood screws down, then a feathering screed, the LVT. After installation, I noticed a few small gaps, the installer said that due to not every piece being perfectly the same size you can end up with gaps, unfortunately. But also stated that it should be fine as long as the water is quickly moped up, what is everyone else's experience with this? Would you recommend trying to fill the gaps with some sealant? Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thank you

I appreciate that. Makes life much easier not having them.

do you have an idea when the self closer rule was scrapped?

I wanted to be sure as my builder had done lots over the years and thinks I should have them. But would save time and money if they are not necessary as far as building control are concerned.

What are the regulations regarding self-closers (perkos) on fire doors? We have had a loft conversation, so we are installing fire doors everywhere. The issue we have is that the building inspector has said we do not need self-closers on the doors, my joiner says he always put them in. I have asked for the information from the BCO in writing but after asking several times still haven't received it. We have 30FD and all doors will have the intumescent strips. Thanks in advance

We have ended up with this in a lot of places for some strange reason. It happened during some painting in winter. So we put that down to it being cold. But it’s happened again now in summer too.

Hope someone can help, we have had our walls spray-painted. Almost everywhere that we have had caulked we have had this cracking, any ideas as to what is causing this and how could it be remedied? We have used the caulk pictured. Regards

We have 3 inch joists at 300mm centres so below the 18mm caber it’s really solid. I just want to know if gluing to 4mm ply would cause any issues at all? we didn’t glue the ply as we were sure how well it would adhere to the caberdek as its water resistant.

The 4mm is down with a few hundred screws down. So if it won’t cause any issues.

18mm caberdek. 4mm ply screwed down 150mm spacing 15mm engineered oak to be glued on top

I have laid some 4mm ply down to put some flooring on top. Screwed down to caberdek boards. It’s engineered oak herringbone flooring 15mm going on top . I was planning to glue it down with Sika wood floor glue (not water based) I have had my LVT fitter say that 4mm is not thick enough and it should be thicker. Said it was due to the underfloor heating. But that still didn’t make sense to me. has anyone one had experience in a similar situation?

I think due to the LED light strip that won't work. I am inclined to go towards a tinting/plastic film

My units are fairly low, we didn't go for a pelmit as that would have messed with the design, I was thinking of covering the bottom in tinting film which will hopefully create a barrier. It can be peeled away if I need to replace the LED light but that shouldn't be too often. Would that work.

We have a panel under the units that has been rebated for the LED Strip, I ran it for about a minute to test it and there was condensation under the unit. your unit looks higher than mine.