Shell820810

If w If we adjust the feet on the units, can you get 160mm plinth?

They are back tomorrow to finish up so will see better then where we are at. Another question: Minimum height of cooker is 900mm. We currently have 150mm plinth + 720 units = 870mm. We want 20mm quartz = 890mm. They have raised the units slightly, maybe 5mm (we also need this 5mm to leave the carcass flush/above window to run worktop out. It means we are 5mm short off the cooker, and we also have a 5mm gap between bottom of cupboard and plinth. Any suggestions?

They aren't finished, so would this normally be the last thing to do? Would it not be better doing this before putting handles on. I will take some pics later. All i can see is black gaps!

On tall units I can fit a finger right between the top and bottom door, so what at least 10-15mm. I need to measure the gaps but I reckon we definitely have more than 2-3mm. Does that mean between two cupboards you would have 4-6mm mil (2-3mm on each carcass?) Doors aren't flush from one cupboard to another, heights between one door/cupboard to another could be a couple of mil out. The handles are all on. They are due back for final adjustments - are these final adjustments or are these bad fitting. Surely if they adjust them now it will knock the handles off. They are glass edge effect acrylic gloss, so perhaps the appearance of the gap is intensified by the darker edge?

What is an acceptable gap between doors on kitchen cupboards. Is there any new design trend etc where a fingers width gap between doors is the norm. The carcass just looks too big for the doors?!

I have put the issues in email to the director of the company. No response as yet. Should touch ups to the paint be suggested, do you think its a fair outcome? (Units were sprayed so will be noticable) Utility - cant see him offering to pull most of it back out again. 25% of total bill is still outstanding.

Kitchen has been going in today. Please with it so far bar a few things. Main issue is utility room. We have high ceilings so it was verbally agreed on two occasions (and i think he had written it on his spec sheet, but I never got a copy, nor signed a copy) that we would have 900mm wall units as opposed to standard 720mm. They installed 720mm. Theres an awfully large gap between unit top and ceiling, and I think it looks a bit daft. 2 wall units and 5 full length units affected. Secondly, we have a navy island, as photographed. 3 doors on so far and paint chips (nothing major, but noticable) on edges of all (assume from transporting/fitting) Thirdly, wrong corner unit installed, but I have emailing confirming what I want so he will have to change it. What would your expectations be regarding the island and the utility units?

It's bison slab, so hopefully noise shouldn't be an issue. There is ufh heating upstairs as well.

We have a window and it's not really dark, but I just like bright and airy. Light coloured carpet is a no go with 2 preschoolers and 2 dogs. The sun pipe looks good but we have a converted attic above and also wouldnt want to start messing with insulation and airtightness detail around it.

Just wondering if anyone has tiled their landing. Most I see are carpet or wooden floor, but in our case a large format white tile would make it brighter and more spacious looking. All personal preference I suppose?

This is from google, but it actually made me take a second look. Its really nice, though i think its a combination of things. the light worktop, the lack of wall units keep it contemporary.

Yeah a bit of kitchen envy and last minute jitters going round the showrooms. Handless gloss was always my first choice, but had to let him think he was making the decisions (while I make the important ones)

Went to a few showrooms today, we can get down to 2.5k with 20mm sinquastone. 300mm overhang is the max in 20mm. Below are two different 20mm worktops, one of which is next to a 30mm. I don't think in 3 months time I will notice the difference enough to warrant the £500 difference. It breaks my heart to put that kind of money into a worktop as it is, so I think this is somewhere we can claw back a bit.

I think silestone is the market leader, or one of. Very reputable. But we have to shave the £££ where we can so if that means a mid range brand then so be it. I want a white worktop, and under mounted sinks, the brand and the colour arent overly important to me as long as we avoid the low quality chinese imports.

They are quoting me for an unbranded quartz at 2.8k, approx 500 more for low end silestone. Lamont are actually most competitive at the minute. We also have the island overhang which I was also concerned about. I am swaying towards the sinquastone 30mm, with 20mm upstands and splashback

Yea that's an installed price. I think we have almost 9m2, we need 4 slabs. Just got another price of 3k for sinquastone 30mm to same spec. We have windows flush with worktop so sills and worktop is one piece which is putting the price up a bit. There's a bit of wastage. Example in photo. Easier to get window closed again when he opens it far to wide for my reach!

its the stress cracking and the likes that concerns me. Pricewise, my quote reduced from 3650 to 3100.

We had assumed 30mm quartz but there is increasing noise about 20mm. Its more "modern". My main inclination towards it would be the 20-25% reduction in material cost. Any experience with it. Do you think it looks skimpy in a kitchen? Do you think it is as durable as 30mm?

The fella that we got our door from wouldnt guarantee it if painted black, same reason as the black PVC. Too much movement and colour issues etc. We did door and surround in natural wood colour. the windows are black pvc, we will be going with the grey stone as well (probably liscannor/on). We can also paint over the wood if we fancy a change. .

Any discount codes floating about (700e order)?

The first post on laminate flooring, popular stuff For various reasons we are putting down floating laminate flooring. We have had various opinions on the best underlay. One place was trying to sell us stuff suited to UFH that was only "0.9 tog". Mmmmm only.... So the most common stuff seems to be this Quicktherm at 0.35 tog, about £2/sqm https://www.flooringsuppliescentre.co.uk/products/floor_fitting_products/underlay_insulation/timbertech/3040/quicktherm_flooring_underlay_for_underfloor_heating_18_mm_10_sqm.html However was speaking to someone that stopped using the Quicktherm above, preferring this Woodmaster underlay at 0.15 tog. http://www.laminatewoodenflooring.com/woodmaster-underlay.html The woodmaster is actually slighty thicker, at 3.5mm v 3mm, so I assume might be as good underfoot? Any experience of either?

the paint itself is fine, the tiler just doesn't like to tile to paint.

New plaster has been spray painted. The tiler has asked us to remove the paint from the walls we want to tile. Is this normal, and will a heated paint stripper remove a watered down emulsion.

Just pointed it out to the joiners and they reckon its in the frame and not the door. Again, time and expense to fix it, and as you say no one will notice other than us.

They were perfectly flat, but no spacers between them.