Renegade105

I learnt this lesson the hard way.....we had a Pump in a cupboard so I thought I would supply fresh outside cool air to try to cool it down, it was getting hot like 51Degrees so it was not fun. Anyway, the fresh cold air from outside made it worst! it acted like a fan-assisted oven and made the room like a sauna! In the end, changed it to extract and now its 35 degrees all day long. Removing the hot air is the priority here, and doing it well. IF you have the window open, then that's your supply. Maybe consider fitting a simple extract fan here, something with a bit of oomph like a 200mm diameter fan, straight to outside if you have to. Mount the vent away from where you sit so you don't get any noise etc. Just a thought, I don't actually know if this would work mind you but I am worried about the same in my build as I visited a home who had a lot of glass in their roof and it was roasting, along with all the heat rising from downstairs. Would be great to hear how you solve this friend.

thanks guys, have sent my plans to ALL of them, lets see. Crendon is right next to us so brilliant tip there Faz. I do have a question for the group, would you opt for a posi-joist-Attic truss (posijoist as the lower member), or have just a classic attic truss and run the services in the eaves etc. I wonder what the norm is here, I assume posi's are going to be more expensive in any case.

Thanks guys. ok so which truss suppliers should I try? I have tried MiTek and Minera, both came in around the same.

Hi, if the MVHR is extracting in the office, do you know what the air flow is? Ie with a vane anemometer? If you can turn up the extract it might help, generally increasing the ventilation should do this. also not sure but the windows in the loft will definitely need some UV film as well as some block out blinds/ shutters etc. I am worried about mine as well as we are planning an office in the loft and the only thing I am worried about is the heat rising from downstairs etc. I will plan for a much higher extraction rate here if I can. I think they put bathrooms at 30m3/hr, I think the office should have at least this. You ideally want circa 2-3 ACH for the office pherhaps.

Hi guys got quotes back on our roof, MiTek and minera, quoted basically the same at £29k for the attic trusses. there are a fair few mind. can I ask what did most people go for here? Cut rafters on site with steel or attic trusses? thanks in advance.

Thanks! I think this is what I was hoping to hear I will keep you updated, might help someone else in the future.

Any luck?

Thanks guys. It more for security. our front,side,and rear are adjacent to the road. we have a hedge on the boundary anyway. Just on the inside of it we wish to have a fence as the hedge is basically a hot mess, and in winter is very see through! will try to ask my planning officer. let’s see. thanks all. s

Hi, sorry no advice but I’m in the same situation… we have a corner plot and for my rear garden, I would like to put a fence up on the inside of the current hedge, just for security. I was hoping for at least a standard fence panel height, who do you ask for advice on such things? thanks s

Awesome advice Nick. Thanks for sharing and for giving me the details I need! I will ensure it is exactly done this way.

Hi guys, wondering on my options of grey tiles for our home. so far been looking at the cheaper Marley tiles vs the Spanish Slate. as you can see I don’t wish to spend a fortune but equally want it to work well. I think safer bet is the natural slate but I’m curious with peoples experience with these concrete/composite tiles from Marley etc. if anyone can shed some light this certainly would help. thanks All!

Thank you @Nickfromwales that makes perfect sense having looked it up. I guess this also avoids the need of any sort of screed on the 1st floor too, and we can lay any tiles onto the OSB prepared floor. longterm though, with expansion and contraction, would this lead to creaks etc in the future?

Hi guys, we planning an ICF build with posijoists on first floor. Want to incorporate UFH over the joists but there are lots of options! I don’t want a creaking floor and can’t afford a concrete deck, also will probably be looking at having tiling done upstairs too. please can someone guide me on the type of system or combo that works best please? thanks All!

Hi, Yeah were going to move it to the edge of the boundary on a temporary board, as will need electrics and water for the build. Bit annoying I have to move it quite far away from this point once the house goes up, its unfortunately just the way the plant room is located on the other end of the property. The alternative is to have the mains on the outside of the building and run wiring etc internally to the other side of the house, some 22m away

Thanks, Fantastic point about the drawstring

Hi all, just waiting for planning to go through for our replacement dwelling, but need to get the gas disconnected and electric before we demolish. Electric seems simple enough, had SSE round and they will cut off at the boundary, I just have to dig a hole where they can access the cable, and I will have to supply a box and hockey stick/post? GAS, had a quote from Cadent which was very expensive £2k. Apparently they have to dig up the road, to turn of the supply. Then once the house is built, I need to eapply for them to come back and set up a new connection, which I think involves digging up the road again? Can anyone shed some light on this please? Many thanks,

Nudura....although I am not too worried about using another block. we planned the house around the Nudura block sizes so it would be easier.

Hi all, anyone have any recommended ICF contractors in the SE/ London area? want to get quotes in as tbh would much prefer someone else doing it faster and better then I would. thanks guys,

Thanks guys, I was thinking of doing the polishing ourselves but now I am beginning to see that the complexities of doing it (once trades have left) plus the possibilities of cracks etc in the future has left me thinking I will just screed over (With the UFH) once construction is done.

Hi Guys, im new to the forum and hoping to begin our journey in January. I am undecided on my ground floor slab. If we were to pour a concrete slab with Underfloor Heating pipes, we would polish it up after and use it as our flooring, hopefully saving some funds. however, I’ve just been on an ICF site and realised the bracing for the walls really do need to be anchored into the floor. how do I do that without piercing the UFH pipes? Thank you very much all.