AdamD

Any recommendations for a good quality anti mould bathroom paint?

Thanks all. Doors now fixed, all under guarantee so no effort or cost on my part.

Recently had chimney breast removed and ceiling plastered, therefore concerned about rain coming down through the chimney and wrecking the ceiling. Would this cowl suffice? Looks to be about the right size (can’t get up there to check). ECO - DISUSED CHIMNEY CAP-TERRACOTTA https://amzn.eu/d/fFunqyg

Need to source a new one of these which has broken. No idea what it is called! Circled pic is the broken one, other pic is the intact one at the top of the doors.

Looking like it may be worth a new one. Can get 27% off hot point so really considering that option. I hate this throwaway world but if I replace this and in 6 months something else goes I’ll kick myself. Are they particularly difficult to fit? I won’t be paying someone to do it as that’ll be another £80 so absolutely not cost effective.

No obvious way of removing the back. Everything I’ve read suggests go from the bottom

Took the thing apart to see what is what and haven’t a clue if I’m honest. Can’t even see how to remove parts. Here are some pictures, help appreciated. I’m very much a novice here!

Problem is when I move the dishwasher out the drain hose runs out of flex so can only take it part way (definitely need a longer hose). Presumably I can test the terminals with the hose disconnected?

How would you test the resistance? Do I need to take it out and get into the nuts and bolts of the inside? Yes exactly that, empties fully and then refills over time.

A couple of weeks ago I noticed that our dishwasher water was running cold. I have been through all the reset options, no joy. Next step I assume is to check the heating element and heat pump. Quote for an engineer was a bit high so wanted to try to diagnose myself first. I’ve got a multimeter so hoping to get an idea by using that, but this is the first time I’ve done it so glad of any advice. On a related note, the way it is plumbed in isn’t great as the previous occupants didn’t have one and so we need to make do. Should the drain hose be fixed quite high, as in as it comes from the bottom of the dishwasher should it go up higher to run it across to the sink plumbing? We get water pooling in the bottom of the washer when it isn’t on and it is my assumption that is because water running down the sink drain goes into the washer drain hose and back to the appliance. Likelihood is because the hose isn’t long enough so any easy fix to get a new, longer one. It is a Beko DIN29X20 appliance. Advice appreciated. Let me know if you need any more info from me in order to help.

This is the cracking. Bear in mind the outer edge of the board will be fixed down so the cracking will not be as much as shown here (other than the biggest bits). The board currently slopes down towards the window so I need to bring it back level.

Our conservatory is 20-25 years old and in need of a bit of a spruce up so I am replacing the 3 window boards. However, underneath is not a particularly good work area to get them level so wondering if you can offer advice? I would put wooden wedges in to keep everything level but there is no ledge from the brickwork under the window to rest them on and screw them to. Also, without screwing what is the best way to secure the boards? No more nails adhesive? Pics below. Please ask any more questions or request more pics if it helps shape an answer. Also, slight cracking of the tender when I removed the old ones so what would you suggest filling that with?

Yes the 21.5mm runs through to the boiler. See video. Sorry for short video but had to massively condense it due to size but think it shows what is what. IMG_8749.MOV

?

Actually 21.5mm as per the sticker (just saw that!)

looks like 40mm and 25mm

Picture of said shambles plumbing. Don’t worry, the cat doesn’t live under there!!

Recently found a leak in the plumbing under the sink and looking for patch up advice. This was fixed (new pipes) about 9 months ago but has sprung another leak. Video attached, any thoughts how to patch up? I am a total layman and think the plumbing under there is a total shambles so please don’t hold back if you feel the same! IMG_8730.MOV

Here’s another angle of the before, complete with our cat inspecting other shed roofs. I think it shows clearly that there was sweet fa of an overlap. Apologies that it is sideways, no idea why it uploads like that.

Thank you so much for your post, detailed and very helpful! Regards where my finger is, I do think that is the factory edge yes as this was not applied when the shed went up. It barely poked under at all, maybe 10mm which I suspect is exactly where the water got in and seeped through, it was soaked. It’s not a one layer of felt job but I do think that’s where it got in. I’ve done a patch up today, bought a roll of felt, removed the bit I’m holding up in the picture and started again. Used 3 3m long by 1m wide sheets (one either side with a much bigger overlap and one over the top), used adhesive and many more nails to make it nice and tight up there. Took me ages so hopefully it works!!

That’s a good option. Would you leave all the felt as is now even though it’s saturated the wood? I guess leaving it and giving it extra coverage will allow it to dry out. Don’t think there’s much value in de-felting the roof as the wood will be wet anyway so just needs to be able to dry out now.

Yeah, hammer was sloping down.

This is the picture I was trying to upload the previous two posts! Hardly any overlap, presumably this is the issue? It’s 1m wide and really I need about 1.5m so I’ve got a 250mm overlap either side. Can’t seem to find felt wider than 1m. Any thoughts how best to do it?

Ok so the overlap is hardly anything, this is surely the issue? image.jpg

Ok so the overlap is hardly anything, this is surely the issue? 8916548C-F9D8-4B94-9BC6-87AAED319C55.jpeg