DOIGAN

Just looking at Tomatoes website, looks like the Lifestyle is only from 1-6 now @ 5p, I am currently on Octopus Intelligent Go, have solar and 14kw of battery storage, is their any limits on Tomato? what is the customer service like? Octopus is great

Hi Stones, interesting that you mention mould on the inside, our unit is covered in it and gets very wet inside, you mentioned the location, ours is in the loft where builders put it, not really an option to move it either, ant suggestions about the mould and how to stop the inside being wet? Cheers Andy

Cheers.

Was thinking about something like this just to top up my storage batteries, we get almost continuous wind here in Orkney so even at 15hrs per day if might produce about 6kw. Am unsure if they can just be added to my Solis hybrid inverter of if a stand alone one would be required. Anyone know?

Quality, yes unsure what he means as he must be extremely knowledgeable and totally over my head, was only letting Mike know what I have.

sorry mean 15k/W battery storage.

Hi Mike, I stay in Orkney and it's very windy here. There are windmills everywhere. I think most were installed when the grants and feed in tariff were big. I just installed a 6kW/h solar array and have 15kW/h battery storage. In my opinion this is the way to go. System was installed at end of March this year and has generated 3300kW. Agree about solar gain being poor in winter but I am now on Octopus Go and charge my batteries up during the cheap rate. Put the underfloor heating on and do any washing etc during this period. Only been on this tariff for a week but my consumption has been 134. Only cost me about £10. I cannot complain. Come April I expect to get maximum solar gain and not need much if anything from the grid for most of the year. Unfortunately my array is on an East facing roof so do suffer low solar gain this time of year but good in spring summer. In hindsight I would fit an East/west array to maximize sunlight hours. Hope my experience helps.

Hi Dave, No it is really all our sinks that do it. Just went into the loft, our soil stack pipe just comes up and goes straight out of the roof, it has a square cover on the pipe on the roof and assume that this is just a rain protection cover as it is almost flush with the roof,

Thanks for the response, I have changed the traps for anti syphon ones but still get a smell sometimes when water is running down the sinks, as it all the sinks I assume your may be correct as I take it you will only have one air admittance unit in a house? Presume thi sshould be on the soil pipe as it exits the roof?

Hi, I have just carried out some work in our bathroom which involved me removing the sink. I noticed that we have a 4 inch soil pipe in the floor that the sink plumbing went into. When the toilet is flushed or shower run the water goes down this pipe too. All normal I presume. I went outside and open the drain cover that is in place before our Klargester unit, all the waste water from the house comes out of one opening and runs towards the Klargester. This too I presume is normal. Only issue is the smell, when the 4 inch pipe was open it stank. I can only presume that it is smells coming back from the Klargester up the 4 inch pipes into the house. If we run a large amount of water down any sink we get a whiff of foul smells, already stripped the pipework and cleaned etc. This actually baffles me as I thought S bends are designed to stop this sort of thing but all our sinks do it. Our tank is working and has been emptied etc, my understanding is that there should be no smell if the tank is healthy. I am contemplating getting one of these soil pipe one way flap valves as shown below. Can someone advise if these are any use or should I just get some of that sewage plant treatment additive to boost the enzymes. Should the soil vent pipe from the roof feed directly into the waste receptor or is that more than likely connected to the waste pipe plumbing inside the house? Long winded I know but thanks for any responses in advance. Andy

Thanks, it's nice to give something back. People on here are extremely helpful when asked, which I have done a few times already.

You are very welcome.

Hi All, Hopefully this will help someone as I could not find anything online. I was about to pull the trigger on a new fan which is really limited as to where you can get them and expensive. A new fan from Vent Axia is £280 I sourced bearings from Amazon for £7. Below is a series of pictures showing the fan in various states of disassembly. To remove the fans from the unit requires a full strip down of the unit unfortunately, this is not difficult just a pain, especially if your unit is in the loft like mine. Picture 1 This shows the fan body from the top, first remove the 3 screws in red, gently pry off this black housing, this houses the contacts so go easy, it does lift off without any resistance. Now remove the other two screws in blue. Picture 2 The contacts mentioned above that you will not want to damage. Picture 3 This show the fan in two main parts, the upper with the circuit board and the body that houses the bearings. You can remove the circuit board but I would advise against it, no reason to unless you think it is faulty. Lift off the white rubber cap (red dot) to reveal the upper bearing. Picture 4 This shows the upper bearing already removed with the retaining clip (blue dot). The clip is really small and a bit fiddly, if you push down on the hub assembly if will give a little space between the clip and bearing, this will allow you to get a plain bladed screwdriver into the clip and spread it slightly to remove it. Once the clip is off just lift the whole hub assembly out, it is not stuck or tight but held in magnetically so just pull up. ;Picture 5 This shows the underside of the hub with the bearing already removed, the bearings are easily remove as they are not tight inside the hub, just gently tap them using a long screwdriver from inside the spindle shaft hole, you will see them move out. Picture 6 This just shows a spring with a flat washer on top of it, just in case it drops out when you are lifting the hub etc, just leave it in place. The blue dot shows the magnet Re-assembly is just the reverse when you put the new bearings in. The bearings are marked 626-2Z, these are the one I got from Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FMV2ZHR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Hope this is useful to someone.

Ok, for the bearings in the fans to fail relatively soon was disappointing, the good news is that they are b a doddle to change and cheap. A new motor was £280 from Vent Axia, bearings cost £8 from Amazon.

Hi, Was already in the house when we bought it last year, unfortunately it is about 5 1/2 old. Looks like I need to go through Vent Axia for this and am waiting on a price. Easy enough to strip p, just a bit disappointed that it has failed. Will post when I get a price but don't expect much change from £300.

Cheers Stones.

Hi, Anyone stripped out and replaced a fan motor? One of mine is very noisy. Looks like you have to remove all the polystyrene inners to get at the motor. Is that even possible without wrecking it? Thought it would be bonded to the plastic frame. Thanks

We unfortunately have to use the wood burner ?

Thought you might say something like that. This was my assessment too, we did not install the system in was in the house when we bought it, I presume by an expensive fix you mean a larger ashp?

Been doing what you suggested, it appears that if I only try and heat 4 rooms my system can maintain about 35 degree LWT, this drops to mid 20's if any more zone valves open, flow rate is about 23l/min. Is this normal? Would have thought that the system would have the capacity to supply the higher heat to all rooms.

Used 20kw/h today so far, averaging about 25 but we use the wood burner most days to heat the house, pretty sure the system could be on for 24 hours and would feel the same.

Hi Dave, Sorry but when you say 62kw/h is that not extreme? That would cost me £10 a day just for heating. Or are you assuming a CoP of 3.14 where it would generate 62 but use 20kw/h? Unfortunately my controller does not show energy produced only used. My heating is on for at least 12 per day every day.

Hi Rich123, Is this the report you mean? CC-00042462-U (1).pdf I usually run a disinfectant cycle once a month at 60 degrees, is that not enough?

3 bed Scotframe 120 m square 7kw/h heat pump. Daikin Altherma EDLQ07CAV3 Results summary Results summary - New dwelling as built - Worksheet version 9.90 - Energy Design Tools SAP 2009 v4.2 Regulations: Scottish Technical Handbook SAP 2009 = B 81.09 | EI 2009 = B 82.56 | DER = 20.16 | TER = 28.45 | FEE = 61.20 Heat demand kWh: space 5671 water space 2495 PCDF revision number: 357 (30 April 2014) External Definitions revision number: 4.5 (1 March 2011) Hopefully these SAP results mean something to you Dave.

Hi Prodave, Pretty converse with this system now as I have been playing around with it for a year now, I have always had issues with it and am convinced it isn't working properly, I have had 3 different engineers out but none seem to offer any options. My neighbour has the same unit and his PHE reads 36 degrees when heating on, this makes more sense as by the time you factor heat loss the circulating temp will be high 20's which is what you want. I have my leaving temp set at 34 degrees but system will not go that high. Unfortunately the system does not heat the house, my thermostats are set at 19 degrees and none reach that high, even after system running 12 hours or more, it does use electricity though ?