DOIGAN

It's a shed, think the wind in Orkney causes most of the problems.

Going to Edinburgh next week might pop in to the showroom, cheers.

Hi, What make of wood paint would people recommend? I have heard that Sovereign SX70 is good but God is it expensive, can it be worth the money, or is other products just as good. Thoughts please.

Many Thanks for all the responses, a big shout out for Stones who kindly popped in last night to help me with my system. Will get back in touch with Daiken to see if they can provide the info about energy production etc. It does appear that I am using approximately 28kkw/h over 24 hour period, this seems excessive to me.

Thanks Peter, assume the builders may have used minimum spec to please planning etc. It is a bungalow so presume this may compound any potential heat loss. Have to accept higher heating bills.

You are 20 minutes from anywhere in Orkney ?

Found this Peter 20652-002A (1).pdf

Hi Peter, I am sure that this is because they don't do the base, it is up to the builder. I can only assume that any decent builder would use an insulated base, no?

Hi Stones, I live in Orphir, no I have not measured the air temp. I think the biggest problem is probably just my wife and I, our last 3 homes have all been new builds and drafts were not common, this is why I think we notice it more, especially in the lounge as we have a vaulted ceiling. Where are you?

Sorry no, as I stated it wasbuilt for the previous owners but was a Scotframe Valu therm kit

Cheers for the info, might add my name to the list, Orkney might be too far north though

Hi Dave, heating is set to 24 degrees, DHW was set at 52 degrees, I know the immersion kicks in as you can hear the relay clunking on, I have also checked the electrical supply using a test meter, as I stated anything over 40 degrees and the immersion kicks in.

God, thank you Jeremy, I thought it was just me that could not wrap my head around the manual. I will try and phone Daiken technical to see if they can shed any light on it, I was hoping for divine inspiration from someone on here to be honest

Hi Peter, Thanks for this, to be honest the bathrooms are usually fine, the main one is the warmest room in the house, I think it is the open loop in the system as it has no thermostat and is always warm the en-suite heats up via the bedroom stat and you can feel it through the flooring, it is really just the lounge that is the problem, I am not sure if it is because the ceiling is vaulted and teh calculations have not taking this into consideration with regards to the floor area for the heating loops.

Hi Guys , sounds like I probably have it set up just fine going by both of your comments, my system is set this this too.The only gripe is the cold air feeling I even covered the ducting with more insulation to try and increase the air temp from the intake duct, can't say I notice any difference though.

Hi Jeremy, thanks I have this, this is what I cannot understand, this document states that the system can achieve 55 degrees for DHW, the only mention of the immersion is for a back up or for the disinfection cycle, mine kicks in at 40 degrees and I cannot figure out why.

Hi My house is a 125m/2 bungalow, 4 years old, a Scotframe with low u values. We have under floor heating throughout, no radiators. A pressurised hot water cylinder etc, sure this is standard for these types of systems. We did not build it though. There is only my wife and I, so nothing extreme. I have been monitoring the energy usage via the control unit. we use about 15kw/h of energy per day. Or bills are around 100 per month, we only have electric. Do you not have the immersion heater on for the 60 degree legionella cycles? I paid to get the company who installed the system out to check it and that Engineer stated that anything over 48 degrees meant that the immersion heater would kick in, seems awfully low temp, you need to boil a kettle to have the water hot enough for dishes I don't know if it is just that I am used to a gas boiler heating system but I am disappointed in how our's is performing, we had looked at self build and I wanted the systems that this house has but cannot see the upside to them.

Yes this sounds like mine, from what you state can Ii presume that it doesn't run constantly? It only switches on every couple of hours? I know that I can set up timers etc, I just assumed that as Vent Axia states that these units are designed to be on 365/24/7 I have not bothered setting timers.

Hi, The system was set to run at 30% all the time which then boosts up to 50% when showers on etc, the only trouble with this is that I could not sleep due to the air noise coming out of the vents, I tried it down at 20% but still the same. I now have the system running at 5% all the time and the boost at 50%. i appreciate that this is probably too low but it drives me nuts.

Hello, Hopefully someone may know the answer to the following. My house has a Daiken air to water system that provides hot water and heating. It is a EDLQ07CAV3 unit. My problem is twofold, the heating side never heats the whole house enough, it can be on for over 12 hours per day and we still regularly need to put on the wood burner as the lounge always feels cold. Can these systems not produce enough heat to heat a home? The other issue is hot water, from the info from Daiken the system should be able to heat the DHW to 55 degrees, I have since noticed that anything hotter than 40 degrees means that the back up emersion unit kicks in, this obviously is costing me a lot of money. I have been through th manual and installer settings and cannot see anything that states it cannot achieve 55 degrees just by using the unit outside. Any ideas? Thanks

Hmmm, my system is a vent axia, from the information I have on it it is purely a mechanical heat exchanger. So the air pumped into the rooms always feels cold, it feels like a draught from an open window. Do so-called air tight houses like mine really need them? If you consider how often outside doors are opened surely the air inside would be replaced often enough. I have frequently thought about just switching it off.

Cheers Prodave, good idea, will do.

Hello, thanks for responding, I have opened the biodisc cover and it is surprisingly not that smelly ?, my understanding is that as long as it does not flood the gearbox they are very reliable. I do need to check if mine is a chain or belt drive, I have been told belts can break, the problem I have in Orkney is no-one bothers to get things serviced, they wait until they stop working so I have been unable to get reliable costs etc. The thing about my MVHR system is that the air it pumps into the dry rooms is cold? I believe that they are supposed to extract moist warm air from wet rooms and mix this with filters incoming air and pump into into the dry rooms. But most of the time the wet rooms do not create warm moist air. So what is the point of them pumping cold filtered air into rooms, we only feel cold. This is why I feel that the unit is faulty/ not set up correctly or a waste of time and energy.

Hello, Hopefully ok to be on this forum as I am not in the building trade. I am however a tradesman,( mechanical) so do not mind trying to do some DIY if I feel capable. I do however believe that if you feel you cannot do something properly or safely get a professional. I just moved to Orkney into a four year old so called energy efficient home with air to water heating and an MVHR air system and a biodisc sewage unit. Trying to get my mechanical head around these systems as they don't appear to do what the manufacturers claim in my opinion. Either that or my systems are not configured or working properly. I plan to do work in the garden too so will no doubt be asking for lots of advice from members if that is ok. Thanks in advance to anyone who posts to any ofy questions.