cbk

Ah this could be an idea. I already reached out to the Italian manufacturer in the link posted by Dan F but they directed me back to a UK distributor so I'm still looking at the crazy prices usually quoted in UK. So how do you find an Italian retailer willing to ship overseas? Just realised I may have misunderstood the thread. I had assumed you got best price going direct to Italy but maybe it was more about negotiating best price for supply through UK distributors based on knowledge of Italian supply market.

Single phase supply has already been installed from the transformer to plot boundary and terminated in a temporary cabinet with meter. I chose not to request a 3 phase transformer based mainly on DNO advice that I wouldn't need it and its expensive. So plan is to run a new cable up to this temporary supply point from a new permanent cabinet and meter in the new house and DNO will then join cables and remove the temporary connection. My question is about how to future proof the new cable I will lay from the house to the temporary cabinet which will end up covered over by final finishes for driveway etc. Is there a way I can run a new cable that could be turned into a 3 phase supply in the future if my demand requires (and a new transformer etc.) but for now will only offer a single phase connection? My assumption is to lay a 4 core cable but only use a single core for now but maybe the DNO would not allow this? If so maybe I need to lay 2 cables a 2 core for use now and an additional 4 core just in case for future use?

I plan to use the ASHP as a cooling unit in summer but this would only cover the ground floor. I currently don't plan to provide UFH or rads to the first floor bedrooms and have been exploring options to provide for additional heating/cooling throigh the MVHR system. . One possibility is to use a Mitsubishi GUG MVHR unit that offers both heating and cooling if required. This prompted the question about peak load to supply this unit and ASHP. KW reminder noted!

Hi guys, need a bot of guidance. I've already had a new supply laid to building plot and this required a new pole mounted transformer. Advice from the local networks team was that a single phase 100A supply should meet my needs and in any case they advised a 3 phase transformer would be very expensive. However with the list of things I may need to power growing all the time I'm thinking this may have been a bad decision. List currently looks like: 12Kw ASHP 8Kw AirCon Unit 2 x Car Charging points HIgh power Induction Hob, Solar PV Plus usual stuff for a 4 bed house. The supply is currently terminated close to plot boundary in a temporary cabinet for supply during building works. It will eventually be connected to new cable direct to the house main board. As a minimum id like to run the right sort of cable that could take a 3 phase supply in future. I think this is a 4 core cable? Are there any other options ( run 2 x cables maybe) to increase the available supply without having to upgrade to a new 3 phase transformer? Any advice welcome.

Thanks this is good to know. I was worried this might create a problem with airlocks but i guess not. Much simpler solution and I can stick to caberdeck throughout. A related question. As I plan to put engineered timber boards over the caberdeck/UFH will this need to be glued down or can it just sit on the caberdeck? Maybe with a VCL layer?

Yes the installation detail shows you need to install the spreader plates as well before installing the pipes.

Looking for guidance on mixing floor materials. New house will include a habitable space above the garage that includes a bathroom, kitchen and living space. Headroom is limited so trying to minimise the floor build-up onto the web joists. I've settled on electric UFH for the bathroom (which will also have a towel rail) but need to connect the living area into the ASHP with UFH ( as electric would be too expensive as the primary source of heat. Because of the web joists I understand I cant use the spreader plates under the joists (due to return bends needing to be notched into the joist) and i probably don't have enough headroom to add something on top of the 22mm Caberdeck flooring (glued and screwed to joists). Prowarm (and maybe others) offer a 22mm T&G chipboard floor that is pregrooved for 16mm UFH pipes which seems to offer a hybrid type solution. So my question is could you mix the two flooring systems with Casberdeck under the Bathroom & Kitchen and Prowarm chipboard under the living space? Any advice much appreciated.

Tiles look great. I'm looking for something very similar for inside and outside and have some steps to deal with. Maybe a dumb question but how do you go about ordering direct? Are there minimum quantities?

Should have said this is for a new house designed to close to passivhaus standards so heat demand will be low. Plan to fit a heated towel rail run from ASHP and just need the bathroom UFH to provide that extra bit of warmth to ceramic tiles. I doubt it will be on much but will be there if needed so thermostat needs to offer timed control function as well temperature. General advice on another thread was avoid trying to run water based UFH to first floor bathrooms as complicated and fiddly, electric is easier to install if more costly to run. One other question I do have is whether electric UFH mats can be installed directly onto Caberdeck and then tiled directly onto mats? I think the advice is generally to add an insulation board under the mats but I'm trying to avoid too much of a level change between bedroom (carpeted) and tiled floor in ensuite.

Planning to use electric UFH for first floor bathrooms. My last experience of this was based on a WarmUp system installed as part of a kitchen refurb by kitchen supplier. It included a thermal probe that switched the system on/off. Worked fine for 3 years and then the probe failed and as it was laid under the ceramic tiles could not be replaced and leaving the system on all the time was too hot so effectively never got used. Reading other threads I guess I could have replaced thermostat control with a timer control but never really got round to it and heating was not essential in the kitchen. But for new bathrooms will be primary source of heat so need a reliable control solution that will work for more than 3 years! Any recommendations welcome.

So does that mean you have not 'notched' the posi joists but instead run the return loop through the web of the joist up to the next spreader plate? I assumed this would create an airlock problem but maybe you have a solution to this problem?

Thanks guys, Electric mats seems the best option then.

Will be posi joists, so I guess this rules out this option unless i add a batten to the top which can be notched for UFH pipes. Sounds like you ran the flow and return through the web and I wondered if this runs the risk of creating air locks as levels change? If you had to do this again what system would you use instead?

I'm taken the general recommendation to use Wunda for UFH design and see they offer a neat solution using aluminium spreader plates to fit regular UFH pipes between the joists for first floor bathrooms etc. This avoids need to install pipes on top of the floor and eliminates the level changes that would arrise. Has anybody had experience of using this system? Seems to be a good alternative to electric systems and I'm guessing a lot cheaper to run form the ASHP. One issue i can see is that the spreader plates and UFH pipes would need to be installed before the floor is laid which may be an issue in practice. Any advice welcome.

Thanks for the tip much appreciated.

I figured this was more of a specialist area so will plan on supply & fit. As for the type the balcony is divided into 4 sections with columns supporting roof above and will be covered with ceramic tiles that drain to the leading edge. So balustrade will be mounted on a steel rail spanning approx 4 m between the vertical columns to allow a drainage gap between the floor tiles and base of the balustrade. I prefer the frameless type but need to pick something so the SE can design the steelwork to suit but I hope this does not end up looking too industrial.

Hi I'm looking for recommendations for suppliers of Frameless Balustrade systems. I've got a 20m run to enclose a first floor balcony and a bit confused by all the options and the crazy prices so would welcome any steer on who offers a good value product. Can this stuff be DIY installed or is it better to go for supply & fit?

Ah that is good to know. I plan to use an UVC but didn't realise they have a TMV fitted. That should keep BCO happy he was suggesting every basin, bath or kithen tap had to be thermostatic type. EV panels will power immersion for legionella cycle assuming the sun shines otherwise E7

Hi, I'm planning to install an ASHP and local BCO has advised that since this will require the hot water to be heated to 70o for Legionell protection, then all taps need to be thermostatic to avoid risk of scalding. Thermo taps are at least 5 times more expensive than regular mixers so this is a big cost. Has anybody had the same experience? Is it really a requirement or just a 'nice to have' ?

Hi BC have just decided that back door has to be upgraded to FD30. I haver a back door and a workshop that face each other so need to look the same, but only the backdoor has to be FD30. I was planning to use doors from window supplier that are triple glazed but these are not FD rated. So I'm struggling to find alternatives that have a decent U value and can offer both an FD30 option and a standard spec. Any suggestions would be welcome.

Has anybody had any experience of using aluclad windows from Westcoast Windows? I've been looking to finalise choice of windows and french doors and I had it narrowed down to either Rationel or Norrsken. But their latest quotes have increased prices by about 16% so I'm looking for alternatives and came across Westcoast. Product is swedish design and looks good at first glance, U values are not as good Rationel/Norrsken but probably good enough. Would welcome any feedback of past experience using westcoast windows and whether you would recommend using again.

Hi I'm planning a level inside outside floor level with a 6m slider. Current design is based around the door design and the external surface will be 110mm below the finished internal floor level. Plan is to lay 20mm ceramic tiles on adjustable pedestals with open joints. The question I cant get an answer to is whether I need to allow for a slot drain along the patio boundary with the main house as well? Or will the gaps between tiles allow sufficient drainage? Also any experience of which brand of pedestals are easiest to use would be helpful. Tiles are likely to be 900x900x20mm.

I've not found any neat solution yet so will probably go with a shadow trim skirting in white and then a complete oak door frame and architrave. Still not exactyly sure how the two will connect but maybe will try a few samples.

What fixings are you using to attach the 100mm EPS panel to the ICF block? Is it just adhesive or is there a mechanical fixing as well?

Has anybody used/reviewed the 4Wall SIPS system? Seems to offer some advantages over regular SIPS > fireproof and allows for concrete intermediate floors. But seems expensive at first glance. Maybe there are savings overall given the quicker build time.