Annker

Actually found a couple of threads here on the site and elsewhere and it seems to a regulated installation. R290 charged systems may be ok to self install but not R32 systems (which may be preferred?) Seems similar to installing a boiler, perhaps I could find an supplier/installer willing to let me do the grunt work of the install at which point they do the final connection, inspection, commission, etc. However that setup can get messy and I have a lot of other work to do, so I'm thinking this is a job I needn't get involved in.

Thanks @joth, useful to hear your experience. I PM'ed a domestic project a few years ago, and there was as you call it a mini-split system installed. The suppliers/installer were very competent so I let them at it and didn't pay much attention to how it was done, hence questioning now. Like you I'd go for the minisplit system and good to hear it's not rocket science to install. Just had a quick look on Aircondirect.co.uk. was it one of the electriQ iQool units you bought? Prices look reasonable but I see it says that The unit must be installed by a F-Gas qualified AC engineer, but perhaps that is more or a recommendation than requirement......

Has anyone self installed an Air conditioning system on a project? I am considering a small AC system in my victorian refurb project, AC in the master bedroom and open plan kitchen/dining/snug area. On the face of it the ducting, containment and general fixing seems doable. I'm a carpenter so will be doing the required builder work myself anyhow, but I have no idea how involved the "plumbing" part of the system is. Is it just a matter of compression fitting together pipework and have my electrical liven the system up or will there be soldering and a more technically challenging installation. Perhaps it is an item where it is just much better to get the professionals in?

Bit more workable with soft sand, just as it would be in a regular mortar mix. Mix up a few different ratios and see how it goes, you can always recoat and the materials are pennies worth.

@Iceverge Yes certification isn't a concern in any event as the project is a renovation. And yes, I had been wondering if air tight tapes were essentially strips of air tight membrane, certainly a cost saving to be had if they are.

Ah interesting you suggest Passive purple. I follow the Intelligent Membranes youtube channel and they have been posting up a lot of videos over the past few days showcasing PP. I have those video saved to watch later but I think it will be a product I will be using if not in this instance certainly somewhere in the house. @Iceverge I believe you had suggested sealing around joist ends in a similar manner when you were critiquing my IWI build-up, so a bucket of Passive Purple would certainly get used on the project.

Its a suspended timber floor inaccessible below. The build-up is similar to a warm roof build-up. (X-section below) The plan was to run a tape or strip of membrane say 3" along the plywood floor and 3" up the wall sealing any air coming up the perimeter of this room.

Surely the Pro clima tape is certified for air tightness, AFAIK thats is their specific sector. The Illbruck and adhesive definitely is not a certified, its just a combination that I've had good success weatherproofing with, and rightly or wrongly extrapolating it would provide an air tight barrier at in this instance.

Just wondering if anyone can comment on EDPM performing as an air tightness tape/layer? I've used Illbruck EDPM membranes and associated adhesive for various external waterproofing details and found it to be a useful and adaptable solution. Its not the prettiest of solutions but for this detail aesthetics don't matter so it seems in my mind it may be a good option.

I have a wall to suspended floor junction to seal and wondering if anyone can recommend a specific tape for it. As usual there appears to be a multitude of options available. The tape will be located well behind floor and wall finished surfaces so it need not be plasterable, however the wall has received a parge coat and is unevenness so perhaps some additional tube if sealant will be required. Pro Clima Contega Solido SL seems like it could be an option perhaps other less expensive options would be suitable. TIA for any recommendations.

I actually have found a back to back frame and cistern here, didn't know they existed but looks like a good option where space is tight. Good luck with the planning.

@garrymartin I now am attempting to solve the back 2 back concealed frame challenge, and very appreciative to find your post, as even Geberit themselves seem to be hiding this fitting from the public Can I ask if where you found the Back to back frame diagram above as it doesn't appear on the product page on the Geberit website? Did you actually fit two frames back to back

It is work but, work with a return (although it may not be a necessary return) I'd add dealing with tyre kickers on market place is more work, certainly more painful!

Only difference I have with my cellar vs your garage is the cellar is damp, not very but not bone dry either. Although I guess the PIR wont be able to trap any dampness within the floor build up, that is the main concern I have.

Due to a IWI spec change I now have a lot of 40mm and 60mm PIR sheets that need either reselling or using elsewhere in my renovation. There are three potential situations I think they maybe be used as additional ceiling insulation fixed directly to the underside of GF joists (cellar ceiling), 1st floor joist (GF rooms ceilings) and 1st floor ceiling joists (1st floor rooms ceilings). The original plan in all these instances was to solely fit rockwool between the floor/ceiling joist, given its characteristics (easy of friction fit, acoustic and vapour open) and I still do that at the very least. Overboarding with PIR prior to plasterboarding will obviously increase thermal insulation performance but are there any drawbacks? Obviously ceiling height will be reduced but I have high ceilings and regardless lowering them in bedrooms and cellar is not a big loss. I have never seen PIR used in this situation so would appreciate others opinions. And just to add I don't plan/want to batten behind the PIR prior to plaster boarding unless necessary. Or go to the faff of taping the PIR joints to provide a VCL layer, which I don't think is required here.