Space Race

We would like to erect a polycrub (fancy polytunnel) on land to the front of our property. In Aberdeenshire (not sure about elsewhere) they seem to have an enquiry form you can fill out aptly titled “Do I Need Planning Permission?” which is then sent in to the council to clarify whether or not planning is required. Part 7 of this form requires we submit an aerial view sketch with various information shown including, “ Define the extent of your curtilage. This is generally the parcel of land associated with the dwellinghouse for the enjoyment of the residents of the dwellinghouse and excludes any other land which may be within your ownership, for instance, a field or paddock.” The house sits within 6 acres and most of that is in front of the house. I’m not sure if all of this would be classed as curtilage or simply as a field. When we purchased the property I did ask the solicitor to clarify this but they could not. The house was built over 30 years ago and the council state they no longer hold planning docs from that long ago. Does any one know how best to go about establishing what land is what for the six acres? Not just for the polytunnel application, As I suspect this will raise it’s head again in the future.

Just to follow up (better late than never!) Gus Potter was spot on, It's a solid wall construction with a small gap and then a timber stud frame with insulation. Apparently this is very common in this area. All moved in and enjoying the new home. Thanks to everyone who pitched in with their thoughts.

Both good points. Will update once I know more

Been using a Leica D5 for over 10 years, Faultless. If you'll get the use out of it, a quality one is worth every penny. The D5 has a camera which sounds gimmicky but has come in handy on occasion when measuring heights with the disto placed on the floor (saves your neck!). When I do get another It will likely be Leica, Similar features plus a remote button would be very handy, Possibly over bluetooth from the phone. When your taking measurements over long distance the slightest nudge will knock you dot off its target. Needless to say pressing the buttons do this hence the remote option. Also hope they have upgraded the camera. All this said, If your measuring smaller distances much of the above will be redundant.

Thanks Iceverge, I'm not familiar with these results so will need to do further research. Unfortunately it looks like the 215mm block is in fact a 140 which I assume would throw things off

@Gus Potter Thank you for your thoughts, Much appreciated Whilst we would have more long term plans for the house (build hubbing being addictive), Is is presented in a ready to move into state and we wouldn’t be in a position to carry out work in the short term. When that time came I’d like to think we’d be funding an extension / additions rather than fixing some flawed construction design or ticking time bomb for want of a better term. Another visit is not possible at this time but we did not notice any sloping floors or cracks. That said, Cracks could have been repaired. We are still trying to confirm what the construction type is but I do have a couple of Q’s for either possibilities If a UK T.F might typically be 100mm, Would 140mm not be on the slimmer side for a solid wall construction? More risk of penetration? Any other thoughts on why the change from 215mm (orig plans) to 140mm block might have occurred? So if it is T.F you’d expect nearer 100mm block with a 50mm cavity and If it’s solid wall you’d expect nearer 215mm walls and the T.F (Non load bearing) Is a bonus. How do we feel about a 25mm cavity on a 140 block solid wall construction?

Thanks Iceverge. I could not find discussion on any minimum cavity needed solely for airflow. I was aware of the possibility of mortar droppings (+ many other things) bridging the cavity and that might still be a concern in the future, Alterations, Wildlife etc It wouldn't take much with just 25mm

Been researching further and 50mm seems like a minimum for cavity of this type by current standards. Any thoughts on how problematic such a small cavity might be in the future?

Thanks and yes, 80mm does seem slim. Looking forward we would def want to improve the insulation. The block is called of as 215mm on the original drawings but during alterations the engineer noted this as 140mm block. I'm aware a 140 block comes as 215 high but would not have expected height to be called off on a drawing over width. That said, I find it hard to imagine the intention was to use a 215x215 block My other concern is the 25mm cavity on a timber frame structure

Managed to get a copy of the original plans, I can make out most of the text from the copy but not all hence the odd question mark. Anything to be concerned about here? Thanks Concrete strip foundations all as per foundation layout of drawing Min 450mm below ground level taken down to hard load bearing ground. Walls to be finished externally with grey granite chip roughcast on 215mm dense concrete blockwork apart from from corners on front elevations which will have natural stone. Internally walls to have 25mm cavity 80 x 38 posting at 400mm ctrs between top and bottom runners with one row intermediate dwangs clad with 9.5mm foilbacked plasterboard with (???) laping and plasterstrim(?) at joints. 51mm expanded polystyrene insulation between posts. 100 x 28.. wallplate over d.p.c at wallhead level. 215mm r.c lintols over all openings. all lintols to have min 150mm hold each. Bit?????? felt d.p.c laid on scarcement with 100 x 25mm wallplate over. 100mm honey????? dwarf walls built off concrete strip foundations 300mm wide, 150mm deep, 150mm deep. 100 x 25mm wallplate over d.p.c allow for creep holes. Window cill to have d.p.c at back, ends and underside. Horizontal felt d.p.c incorporated into external wall construction min 150mm above ground level.

Re the EPC The walls element is described as "Solid brick, as built, insulated (assumed)" with a 4 star for the energy efficiency and environmental.

I can see this in our future What layers were between the main timber frame and your plasterboard? Lining of some sort plus battens?

Thanks ProDave, I have read that cavity insulation can be a big problem with timber framed. You say within the frame so the cavity is maintained correct?

Thanks, From the surveys I have seen done they really are very basic and I'm not sure how much we would benefit. Unless It's a wreck where the surveyor can get intrusive or there are obvious signs. Are there certain things to look out for with this type of construction?

Hi All, Perhaps this isnt the right place given its historic rather than current but I’ll try my luck. I’m looking for any advice regarding buying an older timber framed house. Considerations, Risks, Positives etc. Coming from block wall builds it’s an area i know little about and most info seems to be for newer construction. Were in the early stages of a house purchase in the North East of Scotland. The house was constructed in the 90’s and is a detached one off (i.e not a development) in a rural area. We assumed it was of block construction but have since found out this isnt the case. The outer leaf is 140mm concrete block with render whilst the inner is timber framed. I do not have any other details re the wall build up. Whilst timber frame construction is now very common I’m wary as to how good this might have been in the 90’s. There are no visual signs of problems but no survey other than the home report has been done. Thanks

Will see what the electrician has to say and update once they have been to see

It would have to be done properly. In addition the whole thing would need to be installed and later removed with as little disruption to their home as possible

The house and barn is a family members, We'd simply be staying with them whilst we house hunt

Sounds promising, Thanks! Next step will be getting an electrician out to take a look then. I just wasn't sure if too much of a stretch given the demands of the various appliances and I'd not considered different regulations for caravans. Rent would be three times our current mortgage and I'm loathed to pay that

We are about to become homeless having sold ours but not yet found a new one. Given how crazy rents have got, I’m considering any and all options. One of these would be to buy a caravan as we could site this for free and then sell on afterwards. The caravan could be sited within or immediately outside a barn which currently has electric lighting and nothing else. Would it be possible to have temp electrics run from the house the barn to power the caravan (kettle, TV, Oven) itself as well as say, a washer / dryer, dishwasher etc. The large appliances would be in the (totally dry) barn. The barn is located 40m away (as crow flies) from the main house electric board or 55m if the cable need to skirt the courtyard. The electrics would need to be totally removable afterwards. Is this even possible? If it’s not already apparent I know little about electrics or caravans