Space Race

We have a 10x5m log cabin that's raised off the ground on (sleeper type) timber posts. These posts are now at varying stages of rot and I'd like to replace them with something a little hardier. As a side note I'm also looking to insulate and clad externally so these new supports will project out 100-150mm around the perimeter. The ground level slopes and the attached drawing shows the gable end where the ground is at it's highest with only 110mm clearance. On the opposite gable (not shown) the grounds much lower with a 450mm clearance. It's tricky as I'll need to prop the frame (possibly jack, depending), Remove the rotten leg and small pad its sat on, then dig the new foundations in the tight space between floor joists. I'd only be able to do a few holes at a time due to the propping and if I fill each hole with concrete I've a further wait before being able to build off it. I was thinking about using hollow concrete block stacked on top of each other in the hole with concrete poured both into the hole as well a inside the block itself, more to tie them together than anything. This means I could get the new support done in one hit but the bottom block would only be encased in concrete, not sat on it. Has anyone any thoughts on this? Feel like I'm too close to this now with overthinking and unable to see the woods for the trees SH_Gable Foundations RHS.pdf

So many builds i look at use OSB so I've either done something wrong with my Ubakus selections (likely) or the analysis is wonky. I tried a few of their other OSB options as well as ply and MDF. The only option that removes the moisture issue is MDF 500kg/m3

Been looking at how best to go about cladding and insulating externally with current thinking as follows, Build a new 6x2m frame filled with 140mm thick roll of Frametherm 32. Counterbatten the frame and clad with vertical board on board cladding. I popped this all into Ubakus (which I clearly don't understand) and all looked fine until the OSB layer was added. TBH I'm not 100% if this is needed but if it is, Can anyone explain what I'm seeing with the Moisture issue? From what I've read the OSB sheathing gives the frame its strength, That said my frame will not be supporting a floor or roof, Just the insulation and cladding. Would I need this? Thanks

Right, So it's basically just a sheathing layer albeit insulated. Had not realised this was needed, The thicker wood fibre insulation I'd looked at did both duties. Thanks

In the case of the attached Ubakus example what material would be used for the 35mm unterdeckplatte?

Guessing It’s this one by JohnMo? Some useful info, Thanks https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/31017-summer-house-insulation/ If going the route of upgrading the cabin I’d want to clad externally though with a membrance keeping the rain out of the logs. The movement of the logs around doors and windows is a problem. Would not be happy spending so much to insulate the building and then leaving large gaps around windows and doors. In terms of the supports under the joist base It looks like I’m either digging new post holes or some kind of ground screw. On the whole a new build elsewhere in the garden would be more straightforward but still researching

Started looking at options for creating some office space at home, Usual suspects, House extension, dedicated garden office etc and wondering if renovating an existing cabin would be better use of funds vs a new purpose built garden office. In the garden we’ve a 10x6m log cabin style summer house that’s not getting as much use as it might. The cabin came with the house and was erected about 11 years ago It’s constructed from 68mm logs and sits on a raised 145x45mm (6x2) joist base. The base is supported on timber posts (assume post mix concreted in), Height from ground to floor varies but It’s around 450mm at high point and well ventilated. It’s been maintained but the timber doors and windows need replacing and there are a couple of spots where driving rain gets in. If going the cabin route I’d want to * Upgrade / Replace support posts for additional weight and ensure these will last for many years to come. * Insulate floor * Insulate walls * Insulate roof. * Replace doors and windows, possibly changing the existing apertures. * Clad the outside if the wall insulation was external. Cladding the outside would also sort the rain ingress which i understand is not unheard of with these log buildings. That said, Insulating the inside seems like it would be much easier at initial glance. Not sure if linking videos is permitted but this shows a similar scenario with a cladding detail that would work aesthetically. I’ve not looked at this too deeply though and open to options. Also worth pointing out, Our cabin is very similar to the one in the video but I’ll take some pictures once the snow has cleared and take a closer look underneath at the base frame. The attached image is the kind of thing we have Has anyone done anything similar? Any advice? Would the savings (if any) make sense over building a new purpose made building. I’d be very interested to hear your ideas on how to deal with upgrading the support posts given this is an existing building with limited access to the underneath. The floor can be taken up but I’d still be working between joists.

Yes the plan is to sink it so top of edging is just under the lowest cut on the mower deck so It can be mown over. No robot mower, Ride on

Thanks for the code and info, Good to know they did the right thing by you. We’ve quite a bit to do so I’m still working out final meterage and not settled on the thinner or thicker trade stuff. If the mower bent it out of shape I’d be annoyed.

If it was just a case of buying the plate cor-ten and having them cut it to length I’d agree 100%. They’d need to weld pins to the plate though, Otherwise I’m thumping long lengths of deeper plate into the ground. They’d also need to weld lugs on so I could join each length. Between the time/labour fee and the fact it would probably be an inferior design when all said and done, I’ll stick with the edging stuff.

Looks lovely! Yes can imagine the powder coated stuff taking a bashing and soon looking tatty. I noticed the local National Trust property used the cor-ten finish and seemed to work well. Sadly no gardeners around to ask. I'd weighed up using timber but we've so much of the stuff already around the garden I'm looking for less rather than more to maintain. I feel it will be easier to get the level of the core/ever edge set right so we can mow right over the top. Who did you order from and did you choose to keep those two boxes or did they refuse to take back?

Thanks, Had a look at the Halestem which they list as commercial. Its 2mm thick and sold in longer lengths with flexible or rigid options. I'm hoping the 1.6mm version will be more than adequate for our needs because yea, It's pricey stuff. I'm looking at it as should offer a tidy edge and not need replacing anytime soon.

Has anyone used either Core LP Edge or Everedge lawn edging? Which brand did you go with and did it work well? The worst I can think is that the ride on mower might run over the edge from time to time. They sell thicker 2.5mm stuff but this looks to be designed more for larger vehicles and gets expensive quick. We are looking at the basic domestic stuff 1.6mm thick, Cor-ten finish and would be using it to edge (yet to be formed) gravel paths. I'm guessing 100mm height would be plenty.

Thanks, I've been searching for a similar design but no luck so far. At least nothing close enough anyway. I'm taking a closer look at the engineered hardwood but would need to speak to some owners to be convinced. The weather can be brutal and this elevation often gets the brunt of that.

Found an image online of some external timber french doors we like and I'm wondering how best to go about sourcing these in aluminium. I've a bad feeling this either won't be possible or simply far too expensive. Do door suppliers make bespoke designs in alu or does the manufacturing making is unfeasible? Are there any firms in particular we should look at? We are in N/E Scotland and quite high up in an exposed location. The doors would be south facing, open outwards as shown and typically not be used during winter months or windy days. Having had problems with timber doors in the past I really don't want the headaches

Thanks, Plenty to think about

Genuine question, Would the savings be significant? What areas could savings be made by keeping it under BR sqm? Very interested as we'll need a large space in the future and I'd being weighing up a single larger build vs two smaller

Honestly not sure. It feels like any documents (original planning?) that may have existed and defined our domestic curtilage have been lost and if we wished to re-define this we would be at the mercy of whomever decides these things.

Re obvious boundary, Not really. From reading some online sources (Martin Goodall's site) It seems sometimes the domestic curtilage is decided when they come out to inspect

My gut feeling is that regardless of what curtilage the land falls under, We would need planning permission. They do advise using the form mentioned though if in doubt. The poly tunnel is 4x10m so not a small thing but given it's distance from the road and the fact it would barely be visible I'm hopeful we will get an ok one way or another. We will def be providing photo's, drawings and details though.

Yes, The title plan only shows one parcel of land. I have yet to find any specific info for this property re domestic curtilage and from online searches on the subject, This does not seem to be uncommon. When I asked the solicitor about more info from the land register they replied "The Land Register of Scotland doesn’t keep different registers for different types of property, all properties, whether they are commercial, agricultural or residential, are registered under the same Land Register and this does not confirm what property comes under what category"

We would like to erect a polycrub (fancy polytunnel) on land to the front of our property. In Aberdeenshire (not sure about elsewhere) they seem to have an enquiry form you can fill out aptly titled “Do I Need Planning Permission?” which is then sent in to the council to clarify whether or not planning is required. Part 7 of this form requires we submit an aerial view sketch with various information shown including, “ Define the extent of your curtilage. This is generally the parcel of land associated with the dwellinghouse for the enjoyment of the residents of the dwellinghouse and excludes any other land which may be within your ownership, for instance, a field or paddock.” The house sits within 6 acres and most of that is in front of the house. I’m not sure if all of this would be classed as curtilage or simply as a field. When we purchased the property I did ask the solicitor to clarify this but they could not. The house was built over 30 years ago and the council state they no longer hold planning docs from that long ago. Does any one know how best to go about establishing what land is what for the six acres? Not just for the polytunnel application, As I suspect this will raise it’s head again in the future.

Just to follow up (better late than never!) Gus Potter was spot on, It's a solid wall construction with a small gap and then a timber stud frame with insulation. Apparently this is very common in this area. All moved in and enjoying the new home. Thanks to everyone who pitched in with their thoughts.

Both good points. Will update once I know more

Been using a Leica D5 for over 10 years, Faultless. If you'll get the use out of it, a quality one is worth every penny. The D5 has a camera which sounds gimmicky but has come in handy on occasion when measuring heights with the disto placed on the floor (saves your neck!). When I do get another It will likely be Leica, Similar features plus a remote button would be very handy, Possibly over bluetooth from the phone. When your taking measurements over long distance the slightest nudge will knock you dot off its target. Needless to say pressing the buttons do this hence the remote option. Also hope they have upgraded the camera. All this said, If your measuring smaller distances much of the above will be redundant.