Onoff

I'd love one. I've only got 2320mm (7'3") though from finished floor to the underside of the trusses in the garage. (I really must recheck that, seems low). Just come back from using (one of) the BiL's 2 poster actually, his outside one. I had another go at the wife's 206. I replaced the bearing in the AC compressor pulley a while back and cured the long term whine but was left with an annoying squeak. Turns out I must have bent the pulley last time doing the bearing. Deft application of his 20T press and I managed to straighten it out. All back together and no squeak!

I think this scrap LTHW non return valve I picked up will make a nice patio heater / small barbecue. Just got to decide on the best orientation. Some legs, some black stove paint etc, a short chimney maybe? Must weigh nearly 100kg. The big brass plug on the side(s) give access to the shaft the damper pivots on.

No room unless I stack them in there! What I need is to get my arse in gear and make a rotisserie so I can at least spin the S through 90deg. Then push it over to one side a bit. That might give me more room to actually set to work on the Cabaret. The big issue is the amount of collected trim etc which I could do with storing elsewhere. It's why I'm relooking at creating storage space up in the truss rafters.

I've decided I'm going to start tackling the garage. There's far too much non car related stuff in there by far. There's nowhere else for it to go mind but it'd be nice to at least be able to walk in there. I've got to stop dumping "stuff" just inside the rear door rather than homing it somewhere.

The last "bat in a box" I was involved was when we found one with no visible signs of injury (cat etc). We stuck it in a Tupperware box for a couple of days then posted it to MAFF (I think before it became Defra). They liked to/had the resources to check UK bats for rabies like viruses, Marburg virus even etc in case one had made it across The Channel. They look for European Bat Lyssavirus 2 (from Europe). More common here is the EBLV 2 that can lead to classic rabies in humans. A sobering thought that some 200 people a year receive treatment in the UK for bat bites etc. Best not to handle an injured one without gloves. If you do get bitten, evening ig doesn't break the skin then still get checked out. You also have to be careful about their urine/droppings, breathing dust in etc. Early treatment is key. A chap died over here in 2002 from EBLV2 induced rabies caught here. Seem to recall he was a bat researcher. Sobering stuff indeed!

@Temp, PLA print problems! This prints this way up. Only 25% infill, doesn't look too bad...this side. But turn it over and the underside of the V shape release clip, that had supports (snapped off) look dog rough. Any suggestions? Cheers.

The BiL has a saw mill so I can go and get him to plank me whatever. Think there's some larch up there. Seems a pity to go to all that trouble to make something that will rot eventually. Buffalo Board would last forever.

The bare Einhell chainsaw turned up: Found a Makita battery to Einhell / Ozito adapter on Yeggi. Done a quick and dirty print in PLA to check the fit. A bit too loose for my liking. As the video below shows. The guy on the Yeggi link says it's not tight tba. Doing another print and just upping it by a couple of percent on the off chance that might make things tighter. VID-20200409-WA0021.mp4 Need to get some 1mm copper sheet off my brother to make the connecting plates.

Thinking Buffalo Board may be the wrong stuff: be made from untreated wood, ie wood which has not been pressure-treated with chemicals. Bats are sensitive to smells and preservative chemicals may be harmful to them be made from rough-sawn wood (rather than smooth, planed wood)

Sod redoing the door! I've an off cut of Buffalo Board approx 20mm thick. What to make? Bird table, bird box(es) or bat box which I really fancy. Anyone got a bat box design? Also is there a good position for said box to face? I've a SE facing gable on the garage.

I hope you're going to vacuum under there before boarding over! ?

Don't underestimate yourself mate!

Cheeky bloody Northerner! ? Loads of decent hills in Sussex. Just ask the parascending fraternity around Lewes and the South Downs.

Will do when it's all got a fresh lick of paint and the pillars are infilled with flint. Way to go still like with everything I do! Might get laddo here to work out the geometry for the pillar caps so I can knock up some moulds.

Started this for @Jenni who asked what I'd do different ref my sliding gate channel. This was the original CAD concept: The gate rolls on a commercial track bolted to the concrete base: All the weight then is down on these rollers. I elected to have a "toes up" channel at the top to prevent the gate being lifted upwards. You can see though how leaves settle in this. No huge deal tbh just at certain times of the year I have to sweep / hose them out. If I did it again I'd likely uses a Helm track detail with a chamfered top to shed the leaves off. I'll sketch something up later. Or maybe a cantilvered rather than tracked sliding gate! That's really cool. Has all the gate weight on one bfo post/pillar. Pinterest is your friend for ideas.

What were you doing up this way???

Think I need to get on with.....refitting this 2nd hand door I just put in. I used ordinary spirit levels. Rushed it a bit too tbh. Didn't look right so stuck the laser on it. Should have used the laser first off and cut some wedges...but didn't! ?

I see all this not going out and stuffing your face is taking it's toll!

Microlight?

Having a bit of time to kill I'm looking to resurrect my plan to put some storage space in the currently truss raftered roof. Just found my old sketches and re-did the CAD. Trusses are made out of nom. 70x35 timbers. There's a 178 x 102 RSJ spanning the front opening top of which is 80mm lower than the u'side of the trusses. Construction is 4" Celcon blocks with pillars. Gable end is 4" Celcon carried on up to the peak (some pillars on that wall too that I should add. The end where the trusses aren't shown is a hip end. One "plan" is to span some deep (thus expensive) timbers across and sister them to the trusses. Then build up a frame inside and cut out the trusses to give a clear storage area. Another option was to install a new steel, front to back from the middle of that RSJ and support it on a post at the gable end. Ideally I don't want any other vertical posts along it's length to open car doors into etc. Or maybe steel goal posts tucked tight to the side walls, again with a central steel. Whatever option it'll be without taking the existing roof felt & tiles off. Any thoughts, pointers? Getting an SE in, not going to happen!

As long as the partition is strong enough no issues putting a cistern in there as in a good quality wc frame like Geberit. All access once in is through the flush plate at the front. For sound deadening you can line the cavity with acoustic tiles, board the other side of the wall with Soundbloc etc. No issue with the socket. If really worried about a future leak affecting the electrics you could seal the back of the socket up easily enough.

No picture?

Every day, sort of marking your territory? My Mum used to get given rhubarb for years by an old Dutch neighbour. She remarked one day how it was the best tasting rhubarb etc. He revealed his secret "Every evening I wander up the garden when it gets dark and..." ?

Can't you just wee on the compost to add nitrogen?

On my recommendation a mate used Bedec Barn Paint on his previously painted fence and gate. He wasn't impressed as despite keying the surface it didn't seem to take. We tried it here too on a previously wood stained / pu varnished door. It covered OK but seems easy to scuff and chip. On new or previously untreated wood though it's brilliant imho.