Triassic

The makeup is as designed and the workmanship 100%, we did most of the work ourselves during lockdown. I’m thinking that the shower is the problem, users don’t press the Boost button. Any ideas how to fit a RH Boost switch, that will boost the MVHR if the shower is used?

No penetrations through the Kingspan. I have a feeling its condensation as Steamy suggests. How do I cure condensation? Maybe a RH triggered Boost switch for tye MVHR system? Any ideas/ suggestions?

Slate covering, with 50mm of battens and counter battens, 9mm OSB sarking boards, 10mm air gap, then 125mm Kingspan, air tightness membrane, 12mm air gap then 12mm plasterboard.

I have a couple of damp patches in a cathedral ceiling in the main bathroom. Initially I thought it was a leak in the roof membrane, but having stripped the roof slates and re-felted the area, its still getting the occasional damp spot on an oak beam at the bottom of the sloping ceiling. I’m now wondering if it’s a dew point issue, resulting in condensation within the make up of the ceiling/roof. Can anyone point me in the direction of information on how to investigate the problem further, or suggestions on how to fix it? ps. The whole house has cathedral ceilings and the problem is only associated with the main bathroom.

Welcome to the Forum. Any suggestions for a Scout charity with a problem?

The whole building sits on a dwarf wall about 4 bricks high.

The joists crumble to dust, as does the T&G. The infestation is extensive, probably extending to well over half, to two thirds, of the floor area. The over boarding hides a lot of the problems and has been done in every room.

It’s a single storey timber, stick framed building, made up of two distinct halves. One half contains the sleeping accommodation, the other the dining room and kitchen. The woodworm is extensive within the accommodation section floor cassette. The concern is the extend of spread into structural elements. During a recent discussion with a design and planning consultant, they suggested it could cut up to £550,000 to replace the whole building, money the charity simply doesn’t have, hence the need to understand if it can be saved. Apparently it’s at least 30 years past its design life.

I’ve already talked to a range of surveyors and fairly knowledgable treatment companies. Unfortunately, being a charity, the trustees are now asking for a structural report signed off by “a suitably qualified expert”. They are worried about the extent and the costs. They’ve got stung with additional costs in the dim and distant past, so are in Arse covering mode.

I help manage a Scout campsite and over the summer the suspended timber floor in one of the corridors collapsed. On further investigation we found extensive woodworm infestation in the joists and the two layers of flooring (T&G over boarded with chipboard). We are now concerned about the structural integrity of the building, and need to understand if the building can be restored and the likely costs. Can anyone recommend a structural surveyor experienced in timber building? The building is around 50 years old and is made up of two second hand classrooms, obtained from a local grammar school.

That sounds good, any idea what it’s called.

A mate has a flattish GRP cover roof, around 3.5m top to bottom and 20m in breadth. It’s started to leak at a couple of the roll top expansion joints. He had them recovered with more GRP and 12 months down the line they leak again. Is there something a bit more flexible he could try to seal them with? Suggestions?

Simply make the legs of the solar support structure taller and graze livestock below. Even more controversial, make it a planning requirement to install solar on all new building. Maybe even improve the build quality of homes, so we use less energy!!!!

That’s one pricey fan heater, £240…… Thanks for the help.

Mine is electric only. So the Smiths SS80 won’t do as it’s water based.

So to keep cost in check, I installed Ikea units in the utility room. It’s designed to be cooler than the rest of the house, however I’m now getting complaints that it’s cold on the feet when stood ironing. Ikea plinths are narrow, only 75 to 80mm tall. I’ve search high and low and all the plinth heaters I can find are 100mm thick. Does anyone know of a slim plinth heater? Links would be good.

His there an App for do I have to log onto the Cloud every time I want to look at the data?

I’ve just got the Panasonic ASHP Aquarea App up and running and I must say I’m underwhelmed. Maybe I’m missing something, it’s very very basic. I’d expected more! I can’t even see the COP. I can see over 12 months of data via the Controller, yet the App doesn’t display it. Any other users out there? Am I missing something?

I did that in the last house. I used less that 1/4 of them. In the end I ‘hid’ the rest inside a false wall, never to be seen again.

Could you be specific, which boxes and which switch? Make, model etc. Is there a diagram of how it wall goes together?

Well done with the planning approval. having just finished a new build, I can tell you it’s an interesting ride. Hopefully costs will have stabilised. You must shop around, it saved us thousands. Don’t be afraid to ask for a discount from local suppliers. Don’t leave sourcing stuff to the last minute, or your likely to have to pay more. Start a cost spreadsheet now. Keep a close eye on costs from the start. Update it each week.

I’m thinking of keeping it simple. At the moment I have 4 items plugged into the router, but I need about 4 more spare ways. I also have the 3 security cameras to install. Ideally I’d like a smart phone app type thing, so I can see what’s going on when away from home. I’d also like to extent the Wifi to an outbuilding, to which I have a CAT6 cable installed.

Property is a long term investment. I have a rent property in one particular location and seen very little capital growth in th3 last ten years. Mind you the yeald is around 14%. Talking to a local EA, he’s seeing lots of landlords selling up, due to poor yeald and some, due to age and the hassle of being a landlord.

I have fibre gigabit broadband, lots of network cabling (CaT6 to every room) and wiring for 3 security cameras (CAT6 and a power supply), I also have meshed wifi. I have never installed network equipment before and was wondering if someone could advice what I need? To be honest, this is the last of the indoor jobs and I’ve been putting it off !!!

Oxalic acid works a treat. Did ours and they came up very well. if you are close to South Cumbria, I could give you some Oxalic power i have left.