Triassic

The shed dates back around 150 years. It's in my garden, you come though a gate in the fence and walk through the garden to get to the shed. There's a whole 'flying freehold' vibe to our village. Our second bedroom is over next doors kitchen! Our neighbours garden is down a path through another garden.

They come though a gate in the party garden fence and up the path. They don't use it.

My next door neighbour has a stone built outbuilding in my garden. She has said she is willing to sell it to me, however she has no idea what it’s worth. It’s 9 feet square (outside dimensions), stone built, with slate roof. Its was probably built around 150 years ago. It includes the land it’s stood on. Thoughts how much it’s worth?

I finally got round to ordering one. Before I do, i see its Android, if that right? Or do they do an iPhone version?

The discount? I must have missed that. Where can I find it? Just spotted it.

Looking online there is now a good range of these smart phone plug in IR units. What attracted you to this one?

At that price its nearly as cheap to buy one than to hire one.

I need to hire a thermal imaging camera, Has anyone got any recommendations ?

The last job in my self build is a first floor balcony. The Structural Engineer sized it for timber beams. However I’m wondering if a galvanised steel sub-frame would be a better, more durable solution? Has any experience of using this type of system? Here is an example https://www.deckbrokers.co.uk/sub-frames/

Thanks for all the interesting and informative replies. Sounds like solar is the way to go, mind you shading is a problem as the site is in a valley bottom. Cheap Solar suggestions anyone? It’s for a Scout campsite after all…..!

I have a stream, it runs all year round. I’m thinking small scale hydro. Do I need permission? If so, from whom? Can anyone recommend any good sources of information?

The makeup is as designed and the workmanship 100%, we did most of the work ourselves during lockdown. I’m thinking that the shower is the problem, users don’t press the Boost button. Any ideas how to fit a RH Boost switch, that will boost the MVHR if the shower is used?

No penetrations through the Kingspan. I have a feeling its condensation as Steamy suggests. How do I cure condensation? Maybe a RH triggered Boost switch for tye MVHR system? Any ideas/ suggestions?

Slate covering, with 50mm of battens and counter battens, 9mm OSB sarking boards, 10mm air gap, then 125mm Kingspan, air tightness membrane, 12mm air gap then 12mm plasterboard.

I have a couple of damp patches in a cathedral ceiling in the main bathroom. Initially I thought it was a leak in the roof membrane, but having stripped the roof slates and re-felted the area, its still getting the occasional damp spot on an oak beam at the bottom of the sloping ceiling. I’m now wondering if it’s a dew point issue, resulting in condensation within the make up of the ceiling/roof. Can anyone point me in the direction of information on how to investigate the problem further, or suggestions on how to fix it? ps. The whole house has cathedral ceilings and the problem is only associated with the main bathroom.

Welcome to the Forum. Any suggestions for a Scout charity with a problem?

The whole building sits on a dwarf wall about 4 bricks high.

The joists crumble to dust, as does the T&G. The infestation is extensive, probably extending to well over half, to two thirds, of the floor area. The over boarding hides a lot of the problems and has been done in every room.

It’s a single storey timber, stick framed building, made up of two distinct halves. One half contains the sleeping accommodation, the other the dining room and kitchen. The woodworm is extensive within the accommodation section floor cassette. The concern is the extend of spread into structural elements. During a recent discussion with a design and planning consultant, they suggested it could cut up to £550,000 to replace the whole building, money the charity simply doesn’t have, hence the need to understand if it can be saved. Apparently it’s at least 30 years past its design life.

I’ve already talked to a range of surveyors and fairly knowledgable treatment companies. Unfortunately, being a charity, the trustees are now asking for a structural report signed off by “a suitably qualified expert”. They are worried about the extent and the costs. They’ve got stung with additional costs in the dim and distant past, so are in Arse covering mode.

I help manage a Scout campsite and over the summer the suspended timber floor in one of the corridors collapsed. On further investigation we found extensive woodworm infestation in the joists and the two layers of flooring (T&G over boarded with chipboard). We are now concerned about the structural integrity of the building, and need to understand if the building can be restored and the likely costs. Can anyone recommend a structural surveyor experienced in timber building? The building is around 50 years old and is made up of two second hand classrooms, obtained from a local grammar school.

That sounds good, any idea what it’s called.

A mate has a flattish GRP cover roof, around 3.5m top to bottom and 20m in breadth. It’s started to leak at a couple of the roll top expansion joints. He had them recovered with more GRP and 12 months down the line they leak again. Is there something a bit more flexible he could try to seal them with? Suggestions?

Simply make the legs of the solar support structure taller and graze livestock below. Even more controversial, make it a planning requirement to install solar on all new building. Maybe even improve the build quality of homes, so we use less energy!!!!

That’s one pricey fan heater, £240…… Thanks for the help.