puntloos

Good point. Perhaps not make the subwoofer part of the thing. But indeed regardless, it has to be *SOLID*.

My dad built his own loudspeaker enclosure, bass reflex is the hardest bit.. but nah I'm thinking more of really just a tiny shelf for side speakers with a cable popping out in the right place. Don't get me wrong it would be reallyreally cool to have it deeply integrated but the downside is that you better get it perfect and never want to replace/upgrade the speaker cause that speaker space is not going to get any bigger once you've designed it..

Badum-tish. - But yes I haven't deeply thought on the full look, mainly the shape and functionality. And in fact, the cost of the various options (hardwood vs plastic vs MDF.) could well play a big role in what I want it to look like? Good shout by Temp about the doors etc, yes that would be costly (ish) but open spaces will attract dust.. choices.. Would love to hear from experienced joiners on what to look for, details etc.. and ideally an idea of cost.. 6000 is quite a bit of cash but for a major feature.

Take a look at the attached picture: Obviously(?) the big wooden feature in the center. I think I might be in love. Because it: 1/ Provides a nice separation of 'areas' in the livingroom. While fairly open/airy it clearly separates the room into comfy spaces. 2/ Allows sound and vision to pass through everywhere 3/ Provides a bit of a 'thing in your back' which gives Psychological Safety of not being too exposed 4/ Can actually house a projector (making a "fake compartment" near the ceiling.) for my home cinema 5/ Doesn't block walking ways, especially if the couch is backed up against it anyway 6/ Storage, Lighting, a Place to put stuff perhaps. 7/ The posts near the far walls can house more speakers (you need side speakers for cool surround!) 8/ Place for a subwoofer. (yep, ideally a sub should be near your seating area..) 9/ Power sockets are helpful near a couch (charger for phone/laptop) I'm not sure about the color/material. Our house design is more modern, but wood might still be fine, perhaps painted white with a darker 'countertop'.. Can someone outline what I'd need to do to get this built, just so I can get an idea of cost, challenges etc? Other thoughts? One more similar image below:

Larry Page (from Google) had the 'toothbrush test'. Anything that you use as often as a toothbrush is worth investing in. So I kinda have to say such a coffee machine would fall under that, although I am very happy with my 'on worktop' Barista XL.. A teppanyaki device? Probably not? Same with the wine fridge (for me, at least).

Weird, I've been looking at Novys for a little while and indeed only your picture made me realise how it actually is oriented. Okay, that looks quite sensible. That also explains the 'Panorama' name... Ha.

To be clear, I'm mostly convinced about the recirculation being a better option, probably cheaper too.. but interesting discussion so.. I suppose it depends on what you consider "inside the house", then. (obv not talking about when air is flowing). If I encase a bit of pipe in the perfect insulation on all sides (except the house) then wouldn't one have simply a slightly strangely shaped house, where effectively the insides of the pipe is still outside, for the purposes of insulation? Of course once you want to do something with the cold air you'd still run into trouble, so I'm not really considering using external air for extraction. Alternative thought - is it an idea to put an extractor away from the hob, e.g. 'in the garage' and do the filtering, recirculation there? Most recirculators are reasonably quiet so perhaps too much overeengineering..

Could you elaborate a little on this one? Simplifying: imagine a "perfectly" insulated house, then punching a duct-size hole in it, with two of the above in line.. Are you suggesting the two dampers don't insulate well, or are you saying the duct touching the outside wall, then going inside, and touching the inside wall is a sufficiently "serious" thermal bridge to worry about? I suspect the latter, but surely (?) there are ducts that can be made of insulating material? No technology that allows a decent external duct?

Interesting, while you guys have already edjumacated me a bit on what MVHR really is I still had in my head that it could have both "powerful" as well as "low flow" modes, pipes etc. (I guess as an ex electrical engineer I sortof mentally model air like I would electricity, but I should stop that) Obviously it would be amazing if there is an all-singing-all-dancing air system that would heat cool, dry, moisturize, storm and breeze air but I am guessing I might need multiple systems. Indeed, this was a worry I had. I'd need to read up more on the 'balance' thing, are you worried the extracted hot/greasy air will make things worse than if the air(+heat) stays in the area? Ah, you're irish? (non-obvious Denis Leary Reference.. ) I guess one mismatch in thinking I have is that to me 'cooking' requires 'high power everything' (ventilation, heat) yet MVHR sounds underequipped to duct fresh air in or out?

Oh good, I'm member of a facebook group where it's taboo to mention prices. Haven't given it too deeply a thought, of course it's not in the salesmen's interest, but some buyers also tend to focus a little too much on the last $.. that's me, in 10 years, if the hobs are this amazing I won't do anything else.. But yeah, interesting to hear a real(ish) quote for the entire kit. Since I'm starting from scratch I assume(?) it makes sense to duct the air into the MVHR rather than recirculating

Who is OH? - are there any rules against mentioning prices? Not sure I understand, here's my artist impression: Clearly (...) if you want the pan to be close to you, it will have to be far away from the extractor, no?

What do you use teppanyaki for? Other than the actual Asian dish?

Define 'outrageous'? - Since UK companies are legally allowed to be coy with prices, I see the 1831 in germany for GBP 2669 - (the 1821 is a 3295). if that means you don't need a hood it might not be a terrible deal. Still, obv a lot of money compared to the Bora Pure, which is is in the 1600 area, I understand. Did you consider any other alternatives? ah so you have the 1821 then, I wondered how that temperature setting thing works, since pans are different (and therefore respond differently to inductionizing them.. My concern is that the pans I'm most actively using are close to me, while the extractor is at the far end of the hob. How do you compromise? Or does extraction still work okay for even the farthest pans? I'm tempted to choose the 'centrally located' extractors for this reason, eg the Novy One 1801? Do you need a full wipedown every day you cook? 2mins is okay, but I clean my hob in 30 seconds The Novy does have the advantage that my concern of stuff splashing into it is a bit lessened.

The interesting part of in-hob extraction is of course you don't have to buy a hood but I'm indeed worried about the downsides. Guess I have to stop at a hob shop at some point. Does anyone know a London(or Herts.) area store that actually has hobs where you can ideally trial-cook on them or at least see them in action, and at a reasonable price? Perhaps also the separate extractors (gaggenau?) might be helpful alternatives to get the best-of-all-worlds. Indeed I think induction does have some minimum power that works at all, so going below that requires a pulsing approach, but indeeed my current hob turns on for 2 seconds, off for 3 at the lowest.. Pasta/Cooking skillz> ahh.. caught! (to be honest I just wanted to save a little energy)

Looking for the perfect induction hob. (aren't we all?). But in my particular case I have a couple of questions: 1/ My current (chef king) induction hob, when set to "low" reverts to a @Onoff @Onoff @Onoff pattern which is kinda annoying (sorry couldn't resist ), since especially when boiling pasta (in a pan with lid) it basically boils too much (pasta water/bubbles explode over the edge) and then it goes off the boil.. repeat.. A Bora rep tells me this is standard for induction. True? Anyone have a hob (bora or not) that is better at super low temp? 2/ Controls are important. I love my current hob's turning dial since I can turn down the hob in half a second without hitting the panic @Onoff button (okok I'll stop ). My current ceramic hob on the other hand is TERRIBLE, its touch controls need a super annoying amount of persistence before they acknowledge what you want. 3/ In-hob extractor quality vs standard. Again, Bora is a prime candidate. I'm suspecting it is something I want (as opposed to a hanging extractor, or a in-ceiling one, which also costs $$$) but Im not completely convinced it is good enough. Has anyone been able to contrast with in-ceiling, in particular how much grease settles on your surfaces? 4/ In-hob extractor cleaning. I'm not that messy a chef I think, but it's rare that my hob is sparkling clean after cooking.. which means the extractor probably ate some of what came down. How much cleaning do you have to do, and is the extractor (compared to a completely flat surface!) a massive extra hassle? 5/ Power. I love my hob's 3500W mode for starting a boil, but I rarely need anything beyond 'half power' for most cooking (although stir frying / wok style frying should theoretically be done at as much heat as your hob can muster. My recipe for Chinese style fried rice almost requires it...) Would love to have thoughts/experiences. Thinking of Bora Pure currently..

https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/738161/fire-statistics-data-tables-fire0602-sep18.xlsx "Other electrical appliances" and "electrical distribution" fire causes are pretty negligible. "Chargers are a major cause of fire" Myth mostly busted.

One thing to note, as an electrical engineer, I must say that chargers don't seem lik the type of gear that would easily catch fire. No moving parts, usually protected against trying to provide too much power (unless it is *REALLY* dodgy, but it's trivially cheap to build in a safety) ... I would worry a bit about phones catching fire while charging but.. Do we have any stats on this? Are chargers really an issue or is this more myth than fact? (and even if they catch fire once in a while.. often enough to engineer safeties for?) *nod* Would sprinklers be installed by the standard plumber who does the main waterworks for a property or would you look to specialized companies?

Ah, I was assuming a Tea-related incident. K.. but the issue has to sort-of do with the house, surely. If you pay your premium on time, and you comply with the house related safety rules, extinguishers, fire alarms properly set up etc, why would anything else affect their payout? "You recently had a parking ticket so we are not paying your burnt down house!".... What am I missing?

But I was planning to seal myself in my amazing dream house and never come out again! Interesting.. will keep an eye on it.. anyway my plot is the center of town, so water pressure likely isn't a big issue, 2000 quid is "doable"..

And people insist on building these into the wall now...

Why not? Was this by their choice? That's a ... weird reason. Why would that matter to the insurance? Yep, clearly an insurance company has every reason to try and avoid paying out big, but if the houseowner has done a reasonable amount of things (including indeed perhaps sprinklers, fire alarms installed and batteries charged etc..) then they will have to pay, surely? -M That's .. okay. These prices of cool features start to add up but even for my own safety I think this is pretty good. Were these the mist sprinklers JSHarris mentioned?

Depends on what/who you're trying to protect of course. Personally, assuming insurance doesn't leave me hanging I'd be unhappy, but OK with getting everything replaced and rebuilt... Has anyone lived through suchlike? If your house burns down (and it's clear enough that you didn't set the fire intentionally).. do they pay for rent a reasonablee place, and enough £ to rebuild the house from scratch, replace all the stuff incl clothes etc?

Any other TF guys would agree with this? Would you do cavity Gyp fire batt? I'm def. tempted to go with sprinklers, regardless..

The next question is - how would one 'ensure' this is taken care of by your team.

Sorted. would love to hear your opinion!