puntloos

Instructions unclear, am now tarred, and birds are eyeing me funny. Should I crawl inside?

Council builders just came by and finished my driveway (kerb lowering but they redid most of it). But no note left - what guidance do we have for how long this needs to dry/set? 3 days? 5? week? Depends on how rainy? With a previous (poor) job, I had some paving that when you put your foot on it and twisted, you could easily twist loose stuff 1.5-2 weeks later, but maybe that's normal? Suggestions? When can I drive my car over this? (not to mention: people in spikey high heels?)

Small followup, while my measurements turned out to be.. uh.. not great (with all the tricks in this discussion I arrived at about 0.5%) - but I bought myself a calibrated level, pretty cheap too from vevor. Reality: - 0.2% (the level is more accurate in degrees mode, this particular tile is 0.10 degree which is about 0.18 % I think it's safe to say this patio is flat. But if I get my builder to re-do the patio (they will be very excited about this).. should I still push for angled towards my french drain, or angled away from the house? I think french drain is probably still the better idea, it catches the water (for my underground rainwater tank) not to mention that the grass is on clay, and not great at absorbing water. Or?

Just a discussion I had with my wife earlier, but I'd love the BH opinion and stories - how many "major" preventable mistakes happened with your build. Back story: Not talking about tiny snags, small mistakes that can be fixed with a strategically placed nail or a lick of paint, and also not talking about things failing because sometimes stuff comes from the factory semi-broken. The 3 that I have: - Water leaks from fan coil units not connected properly (condensation drain installed without a dry trap, if I recall correctly) - Patio mostly flat, doesn't drain - One room is consistently too hot (thankfully only 1 room) The common part here is that they seem preventable, and an experienced builder would (probably?) have known that this was coming, but well, humans are human, things get rushed, things don't get double-checked, sometimes communication problems (person A expecting X, and person B doing Y..) cost-cutting or rushing might play a role but I never got the impression this played a major role with my builder thankfully... My house is built to a high standard overall but just wondering what is a normal/common amount of issues that could have been avoided if the builder/architect 'paid more attention'?

Even when ACO drains are present? I somewhat see the point but I have a full rainwater harvesting system (big tank underground etc) so presumably catching all the water I can seems reasonable.

I think you're missing the point that indeed the current paving is effectively flat but was certainly intended to be sloped. Instead, IMO, the paving should have sloped towards the ACO. Or would you disagree?

Well, this would be true if we weren't trying to catch the water in the aco drain?

Borehole soakaway

Yes, this is indeed a concern for me, I'm pretty sure the aco drain (I keep saying french drain, not sure of the difference) goes to the rainwater harvester. Should certainly be careful with 'cleaning liquids'.

Interestingly though, I don't think I've ever seen my french drain be wet at all, even during downpours. This suggests that the direction of the patio fall wouldn't influence this either way Well, I somewhat have the choice, currently the patio is basically flat (to my best guess maybe 1:200 angle away from the house..) so assuming we do something at all, I might get a choice.. but for now an additional issue for me is that the turf and underlying clay right next to the patio really don't want to absorb any water, not to mention I want water to be sent to my harvester tank..

Just reviving this thread one more time to make sure my brain is set out straight. Would you agree that: - If the house has no drains, it's reasonable to angle patio away from the house, to prevent standing water to seep into the foundation - If the house has a full french drain around its perimeter (that goes to rainwater harvester), it's reasonable to angle the patio toward the drain to catch the water? tx

Many sources on the internet (...) eg https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/6467233/patio-slope-towards-house seems to claim 1:80 away from the house seems reasonable, but it might be somewhat old knowledge, in particular if people don't have french drains. 1/ You don't want water pooling against the house, so angling away makes sense, but we specifically have french drains to catch water, I can imagine angling toward the house would be logical in my case? 2/ As far as we can tell the patio is essentially flat. Some angled a little one way, some angled a little the other. (strange). 3/ Our grass is a little high 'above' the patio, perhaps the soil of the turf is 0.5-1cm above the level of the patio. It sounds somewhat 'sensible' that this might push water back but on the other hand wouldn't it literally act like a sponge and possibly even suck water in? End of the day, still trying to figure out what's reasonable, my best guess is that "flat" is unacceptable, and the choice of angle towards, or away from the patio both has some pros and cons, but given I have a french drain that's directed to my underground water tank, it would be reasonable to expect it to go into the french drain. Given that (and given the concrete, then clay foundation) it seems like drilling a few holes wouldn't make a big difference. Would re-laying the patio be the only solution?

Basically, yes. I would say easyPV was a waste of my time, because you can't get things accurate enough to be both sure you put a "sensible maximum" of panels on your roof as well as not overdimension and suddenly have over-paneled or miscalculated. I did some table/spreadsheet a while ago with the panel sizes and worked out the power, one thing I can say is that 95% of panels in a particular "year" have equal power-per-m2 so the size/form factor doesn't really matter, and therefore more expensive panels do not give you more power.

Sadly I think the underlying clay will have a different opinion on that one...

Just a quick update, I had a garden guy over (not really an 'architect') but to his understanding patios should be angled away from the house and 'into the grass'. Of course with my grass being on top of pretty serious clay he wasn't 100% sure. My contractor says they did a "1:80" slope (which is 1.25 percent) away from the patio, but as far as I can tell at best it's flat. So I am certainly still confused. The patio is porcelain tiles though so it wouldn't be a huge problem with eg weeds/fungus taking hold.

Sorry for the long delay, but to answer your question, my home is pretty smart with Loxone as the central brain. It's interfaced with my (solax) inverter so I know when I have excess power. Secondly it allows me to directly control heating (A2A, A2W ASHPs, including which FCUs should aim for which temperature, which UFH zones should heat or cool). My car charger is also loxone, so if I have excess power I have the option of cooling/heating my underfloor (and I have concrete floors so good thermal mass), export to grid, or put power into my car battery. I am still somewhat struggling to wrap my head around what's the best to do with excess power. I find myself mulling over @Nick Thomas point: This seems to certainly be true. So to make that a bit more explicit: Peak: 16:00-19:00 - Avoid importing - Easy, normally, even on gloomy days. - Export everything I can - 23.63p gained. -> Arguably, fully emptying my battery into export might make sense because importing it during day rate is cheaper (23.08). I don't have that level of control on my inverter I think. -> Similarly, not charging my battery during peak might make sense. (noting the above to not have to import during peak) Flux: 02:00-05:00 - Do everything that can be done. -> Wash laundry, wash dishes, heat hot water, heat/cool slab, charge car. All other times: - Charge battery if possible - Do normal things I guess I'll have to take a look at my inverter to see if I can tell it to do the above.

Ping? 😃 sorry but the last question is quite important since I might have a difficult discussion with my builder: Is it reasonable for me to expect a 2% slope patio or should this have been agreed previously?

OK, managed to use the spirit level app @Nick Thomas suggested. Took me a minute to realise that I didn't look for 2 degree angle but 2 percent slope. (which is, if you're using a 1m measuring stick, about 1.2 degree) To be clear though - if a patio is not 2%ish slope, would you all consider it poorly designed and/or something I can complain about? My result is as I expected which is that my patio is pretty much flat, maybe 0.5% slope at best..

But to be clear - this is the wrong way.. the bubble is slightly 'toward' the drain, so the slight fall is towards the grass. (which is on pretty solid clay sadly so it soaks the grass)

That's a great tip. Easy to do. Will figure it out. It's certainly better now, but agreed there's still some dust and grime but not really "mountains" of it. If anything the tiles are angled away from the drain:

Cheers, but the challenge is more to measure what the actual angle is. I think you can't tell from a spirit level if it's 1% or 3%? Or is there a way to semi-accurately eyeball this with a spirit level? And so I take it indeed I should expect 2% slope else I can say they didn't do a good job?

My current patio keeps standing water, even though there's a french drain next to it. Does this mean the tilers didn't put down an appropriate angle? A "random video" online tells me that for proper draining you need at least 2%, so 2cm per 100cm? Or is it not standard to angle outdoor tiles a little? What's an accurate way to measure the drain angle of the patio? Or can I just from this picture claim the patio isn't angled appropriately? (for what it's worth the scaffolding planks might've stopped some of the potential draining, although I imagine water would find a good way around it?)

Certainly a fair point - of course I don't know what losses are involved when importing/exporting. Is a kwh exported truly a kwh? Assuming 25p important and export, is the grid a 'temporal' battery? I suppose in the end it is all about losses. If you keep your house "closed" and any losses are at least as good as they get through your amazing airtightness and U-values then it doesn't matter too much when you put it into the house. My problem is that if anything my house is overheating somewhat so cooling in summer doesn't seem like a terrible idea.

Ah but if you're a finnicky posh human then of course 0.3C above 25C is an _outrage_

Ah but the point is, I already have AC in those rooms, my question is if it's "thermally helpful" to cool it. As in, is any cooling I put into that room (at 300% efficiency) more value for my kwh than seling it to octopus? I can imagine two scenarios: A/ Cooling those rooms means the cold air will "by osmosis" trickle down into the other rooms downstairs (where cooling would be welcomed), or would somehow "cool the whole house" to some degree, which I care about if it's a hot set of days. B/ Cooling those rooms will only cool the actual rooms, and we don't care if they are a bit toasty so it's wasted effort. No meaningful "spreading around" effect.