redtop

here is their pic

and I can find loads of the rubbish polyfast check valves but nothing else

I thought the sprinkler system had to have a direct supply from the mains, with its own stop tap hence wanting to split before the house and then leave the 32mm foor the sprinkler guys. yes I could reduce to copper and then fit DCV

I had a special 32mm high flow meter fitted which is approved for sprinkler systems, hence the 32mm mdpe to the house. might still not be enough flow but give me a chance

sooo, I had been n the wine last night ? the two polyfast check valve failed, all the rest of the stuff is plasson and is fine. everything inside house will be temp as the house is so far from finished. really its the check valve. for the house I could step down and then check valve in a smaller diam. for the sprinkler feed I could leave it too the sprinkler installers to provide one and just provide a direct 32mm feed with nothing other than a stop tap between it and the mains

so I have 32mm mdpe from mains to the house. I went for 32mm as I have to have a sprinkler system and wanted to minimise chance to need a storage tank. I now want to bring it inside the house. So I think... I need a 32mm t connection and then 2 feeds, one for house and one for sprinkler system. Then stop taps for both. But I (think) I have to fit a check valve. We fitted 2 for the taps leading from the mains to the house that fed the outside taps on the way, both have failed probably due to the high water pressure we have (its a bloody fountain) and partly down to the crap build quality (polyfast). The plassen connections have been fine. so my plan was to fit a full bore check valve (minimising flow restriction) and then split into 32mm for house and 32mm for sprinklers. into house and then normal stuff for house and temp on/off for sprinkler system. Can I find a full bore check valve that fits 32mm MDPE nope. Can anyone help advise how I should tackle this? Pleeeese keep it simple as this stuff confuses me.

yesterday I decided to save the money I don't have by digging the 20M soil trench myself, shallow at start dropping to 2.5M at end Yesterday I then decided to sell a kidney and get a digger in

looking on the dewalt site I can now see what you mean! wonder why they are on dif sides?

on the dewalt site now comparing models, I cant see any that have the blade in a different place?

I had a dewalt circular saw years ago, gone now but used to use it for all sorts of stuff. think I might go for their 18v model. most of my other stuff is dewalt so I have the batteries and chargers. make up a rail as suggested (although don't quite understand how to make it)

I had the same worry re a table saw. And I already have a mitre saw so not sure how often I would use circular saw. Hadnt thought of plunge saw though. Have the titan SDS drill, tough as anything!

so need to cut some OSB. Would you recommend a table saw or circular saw? and which brand, money is getting tight!

firings:- yes to get the fall. It will have a sedum covering so gulls wont get to it; but that's a very good point as they would otherwise! will try Jewson, got a trade account there

Need a shed load for the roof, its a flat roof but we are putting ply on top of the insulation before the EPDM (so joists, OSB, VPL, insulation, ply and then EPDM. So don't need the mega expensive roof insulation, just normal PIR. Anyone know who is doing good deals at the moment, alternatively I am willing to take spare of anyones hands ?

this is his exact wording remembering its a flat (sloping slightly in one direction) roof:- M10 coach screws should be OK. The tops of the walls should also be fixed to the roof construction over using noggins between the joists to fix to the heads of the walls at regular centres.

SE has replied:- M10 coach screws fine for securing ends of steels. To provide the extra strength to stop the tops of the walls moving out:- the joist (which run the length of the kitchen fastened to the side of the steels) noggins (which will run in same direction as the steels) will fix back to the top of the timber wall at either end. The flat roof deck will then be glued and screwed and tie the whole thing together. make sense?

if only you knew ? No chance

cheers, waiting for his reply, see what he says BUT he has specified steel posts and rigid connections in other areas so you are probably right. All timber frame has been glued and screwed to the floor and OSB board so don't think its going anywhere. Pic is below noting the steel in the pic isn't the one going across the roof; bit short for that ?

well that's true lol. I guess my thinking was as they are forming the span from one external wall to the other they will not only take the roof load but also stop the walls spreading at the top. maybe just overthinking this

SE didn't seem concerned and said leave it to timber guys lol.

thanks, that would work. The other idea that just sprung to mind, remembering that under the top plate there will be the cripple studs, was to pre-drill RSJ and then also pre-drill through the top plate into the cripple stud and resin fit a longer, say 300mm M10 bar , sit steel over bit of bar sticking out then nut on top. That way the steel is fixed through the top plate and into the cripple stud. Or is this just overkill and would I run the risk of weakening the cripple stud by drilling down through the top

nope, nothing. The RSjs span the distance between one external wall and the other and will then have joists and then the flat roof. So the steels just sit on top of the top plate with cripple studs underneath. Its how I then fix the steels to the top plate that confuses me

so will have steel RSJs which will sit on the external timber frame walls. Cripple studs underneath transferring load direct to foundation, all designed by SE. The one bit if detail missing is how we actually connect the RSJ to the timber walls, any ideas / photos?

and only now realised we have exactly the same thing with balcony, flat roof overhangs, steel posts from ground up through floor and onto support upstairs. And not a thermal break in site. great. I should be able to insulate steels inside and outside house, do I go with eps, spray foam, need a vcl? arghhh

havnt quite decided yet, rockwool, mineral wool or similar I think