cowboy25

Yeah I'm looking at track saws, I hadn't really heard of them, they sound great. A chop/ track saw combo could be a good idea going forward to be able to do most cuts it sounds like.

One thing I forgot to mention and not clear in the photograph is the left hand wing of the table saw was bent downwards about half an inch so I was trying to accomodate for this as well when cutting the cls, so obviously this just added to the danger. I have since sorted out that bent left wing - a couple blows with a lump hammer at the top of the support struts where they connect to the table surface sorted that right out, so now the surface is completely level. But yeah I'll no longer be using the table saw for cross cuts, I don't really have the space or £'s for a mitre saw sadly I'll use another type of saw for now, its called a hand saw. Thanks all.

Ah ok I did have a chop saw but thought I could change to a table saw (plus jigsaw) as a 'do it all saw', didn't realise people didn't use it for what I am currently doing. I don't remember having this problem with my old blade but perhaps I wasn't cutting much cls. I have the saw located at my workshop entrance so the most dust goes straight outside.

So I have this table saw I use in my workshop I've had it for a few years and recently changed the blade for the first time with a nice Rutland blade after the original one was blunt as anything causing the wood to smoke and taking ages to cut. I also cleaned out the table saw whilst removing the old blade. The problem is I am using it currently to cut cls studs to the desired length for my project and the blade keeps catching/ jumping/ kicking when I use it even though I'm being quite careful to the point I don't want to use it anymore. The blade seemed ok for the first few weeks with no jumping happening but now not so much. What an I doing wrong? I never really had this problem with my old smoky blade I would have thought a new sharp blade would cause the table saw to kick less.

The planning officer came this week so thats all good. The guy didn't seem that young more like middle age and it seemed quite a casual meeting, I'm now waiting on his report. Hopefully what you say about some LPA's isn't true in my case as the cost of the pre app wasn't exactly cheap in my view.

That doesn't exactly fill me with confidence , I'm in Mid Devon

I need planning as I plan to rent it out as holiday accomodation

I sent off for a pre application about two months ago now and apart from an automated email response I have not heard anything. How long could it take to hear back from my local planning authority? I'm not desperate to hear from them or anything but I'm just curious, could it take a year or so, a few more months, any idea? Its sort of important as I am building a Shepherds hut and if planning is denied I will alter the design of the hut somewhat to take account of this so I will need to know before long.

Its an external wall, so I guess that makes it load bearing? So basically add in one or two cripple studs and double up the king/jack studs. Got it. The header I assume should be a thicker stud as well.

This is for a small window for a bathroom in a shepherds hut which I'm building from scratch. The bathroom is very small so will just have one small window. The size of the wall space is w 121.6 cm by h 195.2 cm and the window is w 48.5cm x h 91cm. Obviously the wall space is quite small so I was wondering if I can just have two vertical studs with the window,window header and window sill contained within as in diagram B. Would this be structurally sound? Or do I need 4 vertical studs as in diagram A? The first photo is the window and the second photo is the bathroom wall space in question between the existing vertical studs.

Is OSB board more resistant I wonder? Whats the answer here, I wasn't expecting this problem, no other wood in my workshop (oak flooring, tongue and groove softwood cladding, oak doors, 2x4 baton etc) is experiencing this problem.

The mould is back on 2 out of the 5 plywood boards to be used as the sub floor of the shepherds hut. Ffs. How much of problem could this be does anyone know?? Can I just scrub it off and start building or do I need to buy more mould remover? Too many setbacks here, can anyone recommend a good mould remover apparently the I used wasn't up to the job.

You are probably right it would stay dry from the rain, still I would be wary of rats as the hut will be sited close to a working farm. I'm not even sure a second layer of ply is necessary if I am honest, it would help with insulation but really I don't worry about floor insulation especially when the hut will have a nice wood burner for warmth. Interesting. Do you have a recommended vendor/ product you could point me to?

The other option is to buy more ply boards cut them up into the correct size squares and slot them in under the kingspan PIR insulation but this would be more expensive and there is still the issue of rot/mould and is ply board totally rodent proof anyway? 🤔 I'm not sure.

No I am on about weld mesh with holes that are 1/4 inch (6.5mm) big which should keep mice out. The website I was looking at said it would in any case.

So my Shepherds hut build is stalling a little regarding the floor, I have sorted the mould problem on my plywood to be used on the floor but this has got me thinking how to I prevent further mould when the hut is built and out in the field. I am also concerned about rodents eg mice and rats being a problem entering the space from underneath and causing damage eating insulation and wood. Looking around on youtube I see a lot of Shepherd hut builds have a timber frame floor with plywood attached to the bottom and top of the frame, however my floor frame has only plywood on top with a some kingspan insulation underneath this as pictured. I could double the thickness of the insulation if needed as I have more kingspan boards. My plan is to use some weld mesh below the kingspan insulation to prevent the rodent problem, but what about mould problems further down the line regarding the floor? I am really worried (rightly or wrongly) about the plywood rotting as it will be quite exposed to the air with it being only a single sheet. I have painted the side facing down to help with this worry but should i put a damp proof barrier below the plywood as well? This would mean the layers of materials from nearest the ground upwards would be as follows: weld mesh, 2.5cm thick kingspan insulation board, damp proof barrier, plywwod and then the interior tongue and groove flooring (yet to be purchased). Does this seem ok? Or is the damp proof barrier not a good idea? I ask as would it trap moisture and cause the problem I am trying to prevent?

I bleached washed them after sanding/ wire brushing and then I used a proper mould killer as pictured. I used a mask when applying teh mould killer but not whikle sanding however I was standing next my open workshop door whilst sanding so I had access to fresh air but duly noted for the future re masks and sanding.

Hi I have some ply wood boards stored in my workshop I am going to use for the floor on my shepherds hut however the boards seem to developed mould on any surfaces exposed to the air. I had six of them standing upright and the ones in the middle seems to be ok. This has thrown a spanner in the works. I have removed the mould using either a belt sander or wire brush, but is the wood ok to use now? Should I apply some sort of mould killer? And should I then protect the wood with tung oil or varnish or something prior to using it for construction? I don't want everything moulding once the hut is made and standing out in the field. Nb I'm quite surprised about this mould growth as no other timber in my workshop has mould on it, it's only the ply wood boards

Unfortunately that wouldn't work as the chassis has axles that protrude downward its not a flat bed of a structure. Also there would be very limited control and I am imaging some yelling and choice words being used when it all goes tits up! This idea would be perfect we have one set of pallet trucks rated to 2.5 metric tonnes I believe , i just need to borrow another pair for the grand day out as it were! Shepherd hut < 5 tonnes surely?

So its taken awhile but all the woodwork is done as described above and a bit more, I'm imagining I can really get stuck into this project over the winter now. A small problem has arisen though. It turns out the roof and door way to my workshop may be a touch too low! To the point I won't be able to get the get the hut out the workshop once its finished. I can take the wheels off the shepherds hut to make it about a foot lower and then build on it but how do I then get the hut out without any wheels to move it? The only answer is to put it on big wooden sort of sled I think and then pull it out with a tractor, I just hope said sled will turn out to be robust enough for the job.

What about lanoguard? Thats what I'm using on the rusty spot weld joints. The box sections actually look painted inside, on one end of the chassis at least, but I assume thats just as far as the paint sprayer or whatever they used to apply the paint could reach to.

Its not structural, hence not a full weld I assume, it just wasn't a very good paint job I suppose. It might be ok to leave it maybe? But I don't want to risk it so yeah I will grind and paint it probably.

Hello, I'm about to start building a shepherds hut I have the chassis but I'm a little hesitant to start building away on it I have some timber but I'm unsure about how to attach the timber to the metal frame does anyone here have any experience with this? I'm also worried about the best way to do it to limit rust to the frame and rot to the wood underneath. I would need either extremely long bolts or I could attach the wood using some sort of bracket I assume. Thoughts? Also regarding the metal chassis as you can see in the photo the welded joints have some superficial (for now) rust next to the weld spot, this is on every joint of which there are about thirty, should I do something with this or not worry about it? I don't really want to have it start rusting here after its been built on and have the chassis start falling apart years down the line because I didn't do something with it.