Big Jimbo

Oi, @joe90 I said it first you tart.

Great view. Looking good.

Within 3 meters as long as you are not going deeper than your neighbours foundations, then no PWA required. Be nice to your neighbour. You need the fence taken down, and will want access in order to point up your wall. YOU need to take responsibility for not building over the boundary. Don't leave it to others.

Yes, it has got a thin, but decent width flange. CT1 would do the job. Use plenty, make sure it squeezes out all around. Clean up with several Big wipes. I used One of these in my daughters about 8 years ago. Still looks Excellent.

Between 3 and 6 meters you use the 45 degree rule from your neighbours bottom of foundation. Even taking it from your neighbours ground level, at 4 meters away you would have to be digging 4 meters down. I doubt that so you are good to go. Make sure that nothing on your extension overhangs the boundary. Gutter etc.

Ok. Reginox R27646 New York. 50x40 £168.03 from sinks and taps. I have used these in the past. Very good quality sinks.

The problem is that the sinks that are designed to be undermounted can, and usually have quite a rolled top. Belive me it wouldn't look good, and you wouldn't be happy. I will try and have a look for an alternative (Reginox) from memory have a flat top, so can be over, or under mounted.

@Iceverge Just found them and watching now. cheers

@Iceverge. No. I have tried to find them in the past, but couldn't.

@BotusBuild It's the reason why a lot of window reveals feel cold to the touch, and have damp and mould issues.

@BotusBuild Not being thick. I think it is something that most people dont consider. If we wanted to limit our heat losses, we would line our windows up with the outside edge of our insulation Not put our windows further out, like in my drawing. They want us to all use fancy expensive tape to put our windows in, but allow us to have our window frames only sitting back in from the outside, 30mm into our insulated cavity. That means that the cold air outside, and the warm air inside only has to pass through 30mm of insulation. If we sat our windows further in from the outside, say that they were flush with the cavity insulation, the cold coming in, and the heat going out would have to pass through more insulation before it either got in, or in the case of heat got out.

@Iceverge Looks like i will have to. The currently available rubbish available should be taken off the market, and the window industry should wake up.

So with a cill of 150mm...Brickwork....A 30mm cill overhang....... your window frame will sit 30mm into the cavity. Building reg PASS, but shite. So with a cill of 150mm...Render....Blockwork......A 30mm cill overhang......Your window frame will sit into the cavity by at most 15mm. Building reg FAIL. With a cill of 180 cill.....10mm cladding.....25mm batten....Blockwork.... A 30mm cill overhang.... Your window frame will sit into the cavity by 15mm. Building reg FAIL So, basically a large thermal bridge. Heat loss, damp, mould, etc...... It can't be just @Kelvin and me that have thought about this ? Come on guys, other than getting cills made, has nobody done better than above. Where are all the smart people when you need them ? 150mm cills are marketed as standard. They should be marketed as will just get you through building regs with brickwork, will fail in all other circumstances, and are basically shite.

@Kelvin Well done for thinking about it. It seems that most people don't. Cold bridge, heat loss. damp and mould.

If you can see the drawing my windows will sit into the cavity by 30mm. That's a bit rubbish with regards the thermal bi pass around the windows, and it's by using 180mm cills. I'd like my 70mm window frames to sit into the cavity by 60mm. 180mm is the deepest grey cill I can find ! When it comes to the upstairs which will have hardi plank cladding on a batten, the windows will sit completely outside the cavity which won't meet building regs. Frustrating. What have others done ?

@SteamyTea Yes, Both how to calculate them, and thinking about what i might be able to do to make them a bit better.

@SteamyTea you, my friend, are not making anything precision with that tape measure.

I'm starting to think about heat losses. Not the normal one's, like floor, walls, windows, doors, and roof. The odd ones that i also need to consider. Things like where the wall meets the floor. Where the windows meet the wall reveals. Window lintels. Where the roof meets the walls. Pipe penetrations from inside to outside. Are there any others that people can think of ? Don't want to miss any if i can. Thanks in advance.

He did look like Catweasel though, and his cups were filthy.

@ReedRichards If you had run the pipes through the insulated envelope of the house, instead of the loss. Than the pipe heat loss, would have been a room heat gain. We could go on and on. I knew a strange chap many years ago. When you visited, and went for a pee, his bath would quite often be full of manky old water. When i asked him why he said he didn't drain the bath untill the water had gone stone cold. Refused to waste the heat. He had a good point.

@ReedRichards I have often wondered if you could have fitted a PIR. Walk into the bathroom, and it kicks on the re-circulating pump. The instant hot water is a great idea, but having to have a pump running during awake hours, with the heat losses seems a shame.

I've done that before. Stuck them on with Sticks like shite.

Also, my understanding is that a window frame should be sited as far in from the outside, as to have most of the window frame within the insulated cavity. If the window frame is 70mm thick, and you are using a standard 150mm cill, you are going to want a 20mm cill overhang to the brickwork. That means that at most your window will be 30mm into the cavity, and 40mm outside. Now if you are rendering, you will have even less, and if you are using a batten and cladding, even using 180mm cills, chances are none of your window frame will be within the cavity. A huge cold bridge. We need to start making window cills a lot deeper.

@Susie Yes, i will have to sort out some guarding for the upstairs windows. My early doors, in my head plan is. MDF, sat on the top of the window, nailed to the wall, but not above 1100mm in order to comply with fire escape rules. Get passed by building control. Remove MDF, fill and paint. It is madness, you can't have an escape higher than 1100mm That is fair enough, but if any of your openings are lower than 1100mm you have to have guarding ! I watched my grandson the other week. Wanted to go on the trampoline in his garden. Pulled over a sit on truck, and used that to reach the trampoline. He is not yet 2 years old.

Well done. That is a hell of a task.