Danny68

Thank you safeasteading for the comprehensive reply there's definitely bits to take away and incorporatein to the scheme , I think I'll use my haphazard approach to the planning to get through it . I take offence that Roger quoted "You need an attenuation system. If you get away with less in your situation, you have simply worked round the requirements and contributed to the problem" I don't think an attenuation system is necessary because of the site layout The footprint of the building I'm knocking down is comparable to the one being built . On top of that I will be removing in excess 180% of hard standing across the plot footprint and approximately 65% of cubic mass and the existing rwp will no longer run into the main sewer.

That's the point I have nothing but woods at the bottom of my garden , the geography of my land and the woods means I could have rain for 40 days and its just going to run away east for 150m then north for god knows how far.

With me its more a case of not knowing how to convey the information . I'm more than happy to run drains to the garden to run down hill via soakaway crates although personally I can not see of any ecological or practical benefit ( heavy flint and clay soil ) doing that over letting them run surface over the garden . I'll try and find some case study submissions to planning to work out a template .

As part of our planning permission we have to submit a Suds assessment and drainage plan / design , reading an old post from Jilly I believe its an exact copy and paste job from the planning officer of whats required. My issue is my plot is for all intense and purposes a slope, from the roadway the existing bungalow is approximately 1 metre lower dropping another 13 metres over the next 100m until it reaches woodland and has a final sharp drop of 5 metres . Houses either side ( the plot is 22.5m wide ) broadly follow the same route. I'm not sure what my question is because the water is only going in one direction what ever I do . How would you hubbers deal with the issue . I have a couple of quotes from suds specialist but thought I would ask on here first .Thank you. P.s I've tried and I don't understand qbar etc..

I personally think he's having an easy day but the charge rate is not exorbitant and more importantly are you happy with whats being achieved and how accurate is his estimate for time to do the job coming along.

Thanks faz that's very informative , I was quite impressed watching the solarcrest YouTube videos .Have you had yours fitted yet and if so what were they like as a company to deal with.

Good evening hubbers, While I wait for planning to validate our plans ( 2 months tomorrow) I've been scribbling runs for the MVHR . I fully intend to get it sized by a professional but was just wondering if its imperative to have the same amount of outlets as inlets for balancing. Also would it be prudent to have double outlets on the shower room ,we're an all adult family of 5 and the current bathroom often has the look of a sauna . Also although a second bathroom upstairs is included i don't expect that to be hardly used but the downstairs kitchen although open plan will be quite large so possibly double up there as well Any thoughts ?

I think you need to ask the question was you have with the price ? And are you happy with the finished job ? That is all that matters .

Plus worth clamping a piece of say 30mm ply on the underside of the beam once its in place above where you are going to put your acros, then coach screw the acros top to ply wood .Then when you jack up the joist the acro doesn't fall and crack someone on the head who's not paying attention . Plus it stops the across spinning metal on metal

I was instructed the week end to fetch the ring binder home ,i think we'll be submitting war and peace ?

Thank you ferdinand , crossed wires our architect that we used was on the upwork platform, the floor alterations I can get changed ,we are very much winging it atm my wife is under the impression that everything has to be perfect

Me and swmbo are at an impasse on submitting our planning application. We originally had pre planning advice from the planners that was reasonably sympathetic but ultimately recommended that they would not approve our plans. Forward 1 year 3 design changes 3 animated videos lots of tooing and throwing with our Upwork Serbian architect . The problem I have is my wife wants to be belt and braces with everything detail to satisfy the planners , this includes design detail for making it disabled friendly/ compliant . Having read posts on here regarding planning applications, I'm led to believe that its a bit of it and miss with regard to content the planning department require for the application. One issue pointed out is we are now applying for a 1 and 1/2 story design but on the plans drawn we are not happy with the ceiling height , my solution is we'll alter it when we e get building drawings done ( we don't plan to increase the building higher just raise the floor ) where as my wife believes we need to have every detail nailed down before we submit . Can anyone who's been through planning shed some light please .

This is a fair price in my opinion , please bare in mind these are 46kg per meter which means fork truck handling or overhead crane at the workshop and it might be 70 metres on site but could easily be 85 metres ordered from the stockholder and seeing that its 46kg per metre you would be absolutely barmey getting it galvanised unless you intend to leave it to your great great great grandchildren , a coat of red oxide sloshed on by the lacky will see the beams through to well into the next century.

That won't stop you buying another tin of glue the next time your in the plumbers merchants to go with the 5 you already got in your van

Back to the job in hand do one radiator at a time close radiator valves both sides best to take white cap off valve and use adjustable spanner for last little tighten then with your radiator key open bleed valve at top , water should stop coming out once pressure has dropped ( if water keeps piddling out then your radiator valve is letting by and will continue to drain the system plus get your floor wet ). On the assumption water stops you can now remove radiator crack each valve taking care not to bend the pipe connector to valve ( use 2 spanners/wrench to fight a against each other one on the valve one on the valve nut ) before doing this create a exit to bath or outside if going over good carpet put dust sheets down ...you will spill a drop of black sludge . Ok loosen one side get o/h to push valve against radiator when you have loosened this stops excess water dispersion , then loosen other side . Right once both are loosened you can quickly put fingers over radiator outlets and lift off , on smaller radiators I then spin over top to bottom to stop water leaking out ( make sure you've tightened the bleed valve back up) then exit to drain off . If you wish to remove all pipework your need to drain the system down .