BotusBuild

Susie, What about inserting a swept T in the existing soil pipe and then extending the soil pipe through the 180mm insulation following the red line in the edited photo. Then run your basin and shower waste following the approximated blue lines? Your waste pipes from the plant room could also come through the stud wall into this soil pipe of course. Then you can go down to 32 or 40mm waste pipe for each "appliance"

Thanks, I know, but this'll be a nice stopgap, building control passing solution, until the primary access is built 🙂

Thanks. Looks like I'm going for a ramp on the inside of the door, and I now have a cunning plan to make it part of a piece of furniture that will be in the hallway, so we can have it in place as and when needed e.g. when the BCO comes to visit 🙂. I'll try and remember to post piccies when its done (don't hold any breathes) This becomes our second disable access 😉 Thanks everyone

Thanks @nod The outside of the door will be fine. I have a plan for that. The bit I'm concerned about is on the inside of the door, which is what the pictures are of.

Click LVT, although if we need a landing step, we could incorporate a mat well, or do it with a slate top that matches the porch area outside

No, that is a different route

Currently the internal area of the front door involves a 49mm step down (not including the 20mm or so of the door frame). I've read relevant BR and still not clear if this is OK. So Q1, is it OK? If not then I propose a step inside the door that goes an appropriate distance from the door as a "landing" area. Something like this Q2. Would something like that satisfy BR (if it is required)?

4" thick with 30mm stones? I think you'll see a lot of gaps (spy holes) between the stones. This maybe the effect your after of course but if not then go up to 6" as that should eliminate most "spy holes"

The double end hooked wires are going to need to be plentiful i think, probable at most 200mm apart to stop bulging. Maybe a good idea to alternate the spacing of the hooks to also reduce chances of bulging. Trying 4-600mm depth to start with.

Will do for the last 10 🙂

A quick follow up and another door lining question. All the door linings I bought were kits and the headrail had grooves cut in it for the legs/jambs to fit into, which I ended up having to reposition because of the opening widths. Could I just buy planed timber and make up linings? Yes, probably. Do I need the grooves in the headrail?

Don't forget going over budget

You've got the idea - adding to the thread with the start of a myriad of ideas 😅

I just found a lovely use of a zip tie. Couldn't get the bottom screw of the pipe clip in ....

Which require a nut on the other end? Is there another type? I don't want to have to get to the "hidden" side of the glulam beam