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BotusBuild

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BotusBuild last won the day on February 1

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  • About Me
    40 years in IT, then made redundant, which has helped enormously in building. Helped with building renovations and extensions, but it was always a dream to build our own energy efficient house. Well, here we are having started (properly) in late 2020, and very proud of what we have achieved (so far!)
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    South East Cornwall

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  1. Not ever, just on this property. Quite please with our Stairway to .....
  2. I had such a visit back in December. I had requested the visit as a pre-completion review. They called it something else, but they did follow up the visit with a list of things they needed to see before completion. Very handy for the work plan needed this year.
  3. I would just use the builders sand on its own. It'll be easier to level the capping stones as you lay them.
  4. My take on this. All the mullions have slope, whether fixed or opening windows which is good. The bit you are questioning is glazing fixed into the frame. In essence, once fitted with the seals all in place correctly, the glazing should not move relative to the frame as designed. The possibility of rain getting into that area between the bottom of the glazing and the frame should be zero as long as they are manufactured correctly which we should assume they will be. You're going to be checking all the seals in these units when they arrive, like I did, aren't you (Hint!). Check for any where you suspect they have put the join between the two ends of a seal anywhere else except the top of the frame. We had 5! glazing units removed after fitting to have the seals replaced and fitted correctly.
  5. I was wondering what had happened to all the water from @Pocster's leak - filling the swimming pools of the world
  6. We have Dryvit render to the frames. I have applied Soudaseal 215 LM Premium Hybrid Sealant over the join.
  7. This would make me VERY nervous - you pay out for all the planning application, surveys and reports that may be needed to support the application, it gets approved, and then they pull out, up the price and you can't afford to buy and are out of pocket for the planning. Something needs to be put in place to protect you.
  8. If the walls are structurally OK, or only need minor repairs like replacing the cracked block, the ultimate strong "roof" would be a beam and block sealed to keep the water out. But, probably so.e 2x8 joists at 400c/c with boards across, again sealed to keep the water out.
  9. I can't visualise what you mean by this. Sorry
  10. Can't do this. Each end is located in the concrete walls at each end (inside Nudura ICF)
  11. Screws to wooden joists that run perpendicular to the current outer beam. These are already in situ
  12. I think @Tony L's approach is the one to adopt. Nothing to lose, a good reason to explain why you need this done ASAP, and with patience you'll find where to go and you'll get the result you desire.
  13. Answering the question with a question to which the answer is yes. "Show me the money!"
  14. Already have 8x2 installed every 400 c/c. The 2x3 or 2x4 will be screwed along each of these, probably every 400mm
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