BotusBuild

Yes. You can put some polystyrene round to protect it a bit if you want. I remember digging a foundation by hand years ago, and coming across the storm water drain, then the foul drain below it. Both were encased in concrete. I had surround these with polystyrene, then reinforcing rods before the foundations for an extension were built. I was a teenager at the time, and my reward was a new stereo 😀 You'd think I would have learnt my lesson before building a whole house nearly 50 years later

I have to concrete part of my rainwater drainage as well. Been told it doesn't have to be a strong mix. Must be capable of holding the pipe in place and stopping surrounding ground movement (or wall movement ib your case I guess) I'd remove the pipe bedding you have and prop up with offcuts of blocks then pour concrete. No need to change the pipework.

Where the (bleep) did that come from? Obviously a brainfart on my part. It was Wren Kitchens 🙂

Thanks, but not clear who the manufacturer is. Can you provide contact details please?

Thank you to those who commented and voted. I have been recently persuaded by SWMBO to use ICF for its strength and DIYability. Now researching garage doors and the roof.

@Russdl, where did you get those steel joists from? Looks like an interesting solution for my soon to be built garage.

@saveasteading, how did you get on with your garage door search? Assume you bought one by now. (Whoever that supplier is who charges extra for Cornwall can go do one!)

Went to turn on the H & C outlets for the ensuite shower this morning, and I and the plant room got an unasked for shower from the hot outlet (had to be the potentially dangerous one didn't it!). The culprit was found to be a missing O ring (look carefully), compared to a known good one. But, planning ahead years ago allowed me to divert the pipe to the known good outlet, making a complete mess of my layout !!! Now wondering if I can get a replacement O ring for my OCD 😀

It was a left over side panel from the kitchen (Wickes)

It is wall hung 🙂 The photo doesn't show the gap between pan and floor 🙂

Wooden stud wall (you state you have carpentery skills). Insulated the gaps (a bit of noise absorption, but importantly limit room to room heat transfer) Double plaster board for noise absorption. Both sides if you want. Relatively quick, cheap, easy with help.

As suspected not all those parts are required for the supplied pan, only the threaded rod. To which we add these parts and these informative instructions (!), which don't match the provided pan and s/c seat! Which, when you work it out end up like this fitted to the pan. Threaded rod with metal bits on: (Muppet forget to take a photo) Pan fitted:

Got the walls repaired, a backer panel fitted and the flusher panel on. Just awaiting the toilet pan tomorrow

Fitted: