BotusBuild

Is that a joke in the circumstances?

Is there a wall opposite that you could brace against? If so, CT1 and brace both ends and the middle of the trim against the opposite wall while it sets off (give it 24 hours)

If you're not happy doing it yourself, yes, get an electrician

Agreed, I presume you would only be replacing the door and the roof, leaving everything else untouched ( but maybe repainted 🙂)

Yes, you are effectively maintaining the existing structure.

Just fitting doors myself. Most doors will have a strip of solid wood around the edges. The ones I bought had 8mm. You can trim the width of the door to fit a gap, but you shouldn't take any more than 4mm from each side according to the manufacturer's recommendation (Howden in my case). However, I've had to, in a couple of cases, take significantly more. I used a circular saw with a guide to remove the 8mm solid wood in one piece, then cut off the extra I needed from the "core" of the door, then used PU glue to refit the solid 8mm wood back on the door. The doors are now hung and working well. This approach is easier than removing the architrave and wood behind and replacing all that IMHO

Invictus, 6mm, 1mm of which is a cork backing wear layer 0.55mm. It is a click system, called Unizip. The idea is you can connect any side to any side so you have less waste. Still not easy at the corners 🙂

For clarity, the reason for low level heating is to keep the classic car dry

Ah, the old tin cans and a solar powered fan project 🙂 Did one to dry logs - worked well

The Haynes manual 😂

I recall seeing this system several years ago. It was being specified for use in heating an domestic indoor swimming pool instead of an air source heat pump. I see that with a single panel, a 250L DHW tank can be supplied and fitted for about £5k. Now, as I prepare to build my garage, I was wondering whether solar thermodynamics could be used to heat the garage (to about 15C during the cooler months), but without the large 250L tank. I was thinking a small 40-50L volumiser tank with a couple of 100m UFH loops in the slab. Anyone seen anything like that?

Why 2 strings of 5 panels each? Physical location of panels e.g. E/W facing? Have you modelled the location/output of the panels for the best efficiency of output?

All in good time. I have the rest of the house to finish. But now we wont get woken in the middle of the night except by our bladders 😂

Update: the relay has now been removed. The call for heat and the pump are being driven by the UFH wiring centre.