BotusBuild

How do i cope? Do the jobs you know will take short amounts of time - and pat yourself on the back to say "job well done". Plan in trips out, or visits to or by family members who will help your mood. Go for walks in the rain - it can't stop you doing that! If you have a local pub you like, go and have a pint or two once a week. Chatting to the locals/your friends always helps.

Agreed. Would go for twice the recommendation for a rail, and around 20-40% more for the point fixing

IF the humidity sensor gets its power from the lighting circuit, the sensor, the fan and the dimmer switch are now all electrically connected. The combination of the electronics in the sensor (the NEW item in the circuit), the fan and the dimmer switch may be causing interference along those electrical connections causing a trace current to exist causing the LEDs to glow dimly. Seen this before and it was an elimination exercise to get rid of it. As @Nickfromwales has said try the switch change (the simple cheap first step). After that it's back to the electrician and check what circuit that sensor is connected to. It may have been a better idea to change the fan to one with an integrated humidity sensor e.g. https://www.powerdiscount.co.uk/greenwood-unity-cv2gip-smart-dmev-extractor-fan-with-timerhumidistat-764-p.asp?msclkid=fcf8825d4a5e11a8765eeb2b0f8bd0b6

So move the batten up a bit, and bring the vapour barrier over the batten rather than behind it. Sounds good

HI, Looking forward I will be building a garage on a slab foundation with timber framing. I want to naturally get the Slab/Frame interface correct with regard to damp proofing. Below is a diagram I have put together for which I am looking for constructive critique. NOTE: I have left out the anchoring of the sole plate to the slab to keep the diagram simpler. I am thinking also that the DPC, DPM and Vapour barrier should be taped/sealed together, or would the batten on the bottom piece of cladding achieve that anyway?

These? (the M10 version)

Never thought it would work to be honest, just one of those "brain not doing enough so fill it with craziness" moments 🙂 OK folks, so its down to recommended fixings to use for each of the proper two options.

Hello all. The final stairs are in place and we need a balustrade along the Glulam beam in the picture below. For reference it is 360mm deep by 142mm wide. Our preference is for a glass balustrade possibly with a hand rail on top. We have two options for fixing - either point fixing to the side face (example in second picture for reference only), or a rail fixing on the top of the beam (example in third picture for reference only). I know there are also side fixed rail systems as well but they will not meet the desired/required "look". I know the main issue is going to be fixing (bolts/screws) into the glulam beam. You can see we have clear access to top and bottom of the beam, but would have to disturb the plasterboard (yes, already painted!) to get access to both sides of the beam, which I'm prepared to do if necessary. What would be your approach (top rail or point fixing) and what fixing would you recommend? One "outside the box" idea I had was a routed groove in the top of the beam and using relevant rubber seals (as would be used in a rail fixing) fit the glass into the routed groove. Anyone care to comment on this idea.

@sean1933, what did you end up doing to fix your balustrade?

Perhaps should have said "The Orange Clown (TOC) and the US Elite". There is a pattern of the US "invading" oil producing nations. It's just that TOC is prepared to make things happen irrespective of non-US points of view, and even of his own population (80% + against taking control of Greenland in a recent survey referenced on one of the satirical US shows). {Bunkering down}

Why do you think The Orange Clown is so against climate change arguments. He wants everyone to be dependent on oil and gas, which he is trying to control as much as possible - i present Venezuela and Greenland as examples M'Lud. We need to get the nuclear and renewables online ASAP. Then use the time it gives us to make sure we retrain our own workforce to maintain, invent and manufacture this and the next technologies, to regain our independence. It's a long term plan that needs an autocratic regime, not a democratic parliament.

We have 3 of these at 1800k each, plus 6 spots behind at 4000k (3 in background of picture) The 3 bulbs are adequate for us. I think 3000k strip LED would be fine

I note there is a pipe clip (circled green below) on the wall for that round waste pipe. If you put the round pipe back in the clip does the end of the pipe end up over the grill again? If so, there is your solution. If not, then you need to replace the bends at the bottom of the pipe . Shouldn't need to cut the grill, but it wont do any harm if you do.

We have a similar two-part construction on the windows on the S facing wall. Gets a lot of rain and we have a similar small water ingress problem when it blows hard. This is on my list of snags to investigate. I note the "sealant in the corner" suggestion as a possible solution - thank you.

It was on the plastering. They brought in their plaster after we had installed all the PB. Done in two stages. First was December 2024, second was May 2025.