BotusBuild

I'm with G on this. Match the show tray. And I also know my pay grade 😀

This is the system we used. Very straight forward to install, and our foundation was not fully squared. A blog entry about ours https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/blogs/entry/865-first-it-was-scotland-then-it-was-italy-lets-just-build/

For a pylon we get £75 p.a. cant really see it in the field, so a bonus

That's what that round file is for. Thanks 😀

As part of railtrack inspection, fit a sprinkler system and air dryer under the relevant wagon and clean the panels as they inspect the track. Too obvious? Probably

If you make the sticks big enough ....

Yes you can. In a previous role I installed a 50kW array on an agricultural barn. It's still running so one must assume the barn is still stanindg

Places for solar panels before you hit the agricultural sites: 1. Domestic roofs (@NickfromWales) . Receive annual "wayleave" payment for 5 years 2. Commercial roofs. Or the owners lose all tax exemptions they are eligible for, or pay a yearly fine/tax for non-installation payable per m2 3. Every single car park in the country to have "car ports" installed. Similar fine/tax situation as per 2. 4. Warehouse walls - vertical panels for improved winter generation. Possible tax incentive for this. 5. Vertical panels along motorways, dual carriageways and railway lines 6. Farmers to receive subsidies for installing on barn roofs and vertical panel at edges of fields (@JohnMo) I have seen articles, but not researched their voracity, about the solar panels on agricultural land being installed on higher frames allowing crop growth to continue. The story headlines imply an improvement in crop yield. As I say not sure of the truth of the story.

As John said, send the SE design calls for the ICF walls

What did the builder work from when installing the ICF? The architects plans? I presume the ICF manufacturer only provides a series of installation guides (PDF or Video). The things I've mentioned are all that I had when we did our ICF walls, and some help on a couple of days when starting and during concrete pours

Still trying to figure out what "cat iron" is to be honest 🙂 But, IMHO, take the guttering down, clean it all up removing loose paint and rust with a good steel brush (maybe use something in a drill?). Paint. Yes to a primer, then you top coat. If you can afford it Farrow & Ball do downpipe paint (but I guess its for the guttering as well). Other alternatives - Rustoleum, FLAG, Bedec and Centrecoat

Yeah, maybe "watering it" was the wrong terminology

I was prepping a strip foundation for a retaining wall yesterday. Lost count of the number of litres of water I drank. Finished it early this morning before it got more scorchio. No concrete until next week. Its just too effing hot and I can't be arsed watering it while it dries

Mine is/will be about 10% (or second hand Aston Martin sized) 🤣

As you know I got the GROHE frame and pan installed, but it seems the flush does not want to work. You have to keep the buttons pressed in for the water to flow. Basically the release valve (correct term?) was not engaging. First picture shows the top of the release valve on the left, and a part of the refill/float mechanism to the right. The second picture shows where the top of the release valve should get to when a flush button is pressed. But, it is catching as per the next photo I've tried "twisting" these two apart but hard plastic don't give. Question - cut the top of the release valve (enough to allow it to rise properly), or cut the alternative installation slot and that "flange"? Othe photos