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Hi Dave no insulation no pipes , upper floor is a bedroom HTH Mike

I think might have found the answer! as this is a two way circuit from V pro specs ” V-Pro Smart rotary dimmers cannot be used in conjunction with conventional switches in a 2-way circuit. Does this mean that V pro cannot be used in a two way circuits? That’s nuts mike Ps I have asked Varipro what they think? Mike

Hi all I’ve had a look and I didn’t know if these photos help. just to add to the fun another LED is on it’s way out. photo #3 seems if it might be getting hot. please advise Mike

Hi Nick. Other duties are going to keep me away from this till the weekend, so will get back as some as I can. Also thanks for everyone’s comments. I don’t care if it’s a bulb or a lamp, when they’re dead, they’re dead. will get back asap. regards Mike

Hi Nick. thanks for the reply. All bulbs! Are 7 watt @ 240 volts. As I said before it was fitted about 10 years ago by a qualified electrician, not me. I think it was 2.5 mm cable some 5 meters from the switch with another 7/8 meters back to the RCD. Something I didn’t say before was this lamp did not go straight out when they were switched off, it slowly dimmed down, odd. To add a loop would be a challenge to say the least. Is there any testing I could do to understand what is going on? hope that’s all the questions answered. again thanks for your help. Mike

Hi all just wondered if someone could help? I have a bank of five led downlights , controlled by dimmer ( Varilight). I had these fitted approx 10 years ago, we have replaced most bulbs in that time. The last bulb in line keeps blowing, in fact it just gets dimmer then goes out. I must have changed six / seven bulbs in under two years. I brought some good quality replacements( I thought ) but it still keeps happening. Could it be the fitting or the dimmer or the wiring , which would be the worst one to fix? Any help would be appreciated. regards Mike

Hi Just wondering if someone can help with my understanding on this? I have Virgin media broadband but I also have a 20 year old ish Dect phone twin set, (rj11) one in the kitchen and one in dining room but the router is in the lounge. I think I would need a new dect phone , which I think is plugged into the router but I don’t really want the phone in the lounge, can route the phone to any other room. thanks in advance Mike

I’ve been wearing a mask, when I realised. It’s just so very hard! thank for the replies Mike

Hi just trying to drill some vent holes into the soffits , house built in 1958 they never seem to bother then. what I’m drilling into is Rock Hard and I’m on my third hole cutter! After 20 or so holes! any idea what the material is? It’s white sheet about 4mm thick which has what looks like a cardboard backing. I can only assume it was installed when the house was built. any ideas thanks in advance Mike

Managed to get some more photos today but from inside the loft, unfortunately I can’t get close because of the old water tank. I did try some weeks ago but the space is really tight. The centre rafter, referred to earlier seems to be the same colour as the rest in the area. There is evidence of a bees nest in that area, as you can see. so anyone got any thoughts? thanks in advance Mike

Hi redherring No help on getting that removed, sorry. l must admit that I was think that it would not help much! But I have the damp anyway, see my other thread. thanks for the reply though. Mike

Jayc Any problems with damp? mike

Got that I was just wondering if this would be a better solution?

Hi sorry I was trying to start a new topic anyway anyone any thoughts about this? fill a blocked chimney void with foam. I know the void is quite large but if you did in small doses it would certainly be filled, using small two tank system. But what are the consequences ? thanks in advance Mike

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As my old IPad doesn’t want to send photos to my new one! I’ll post another pic from that. this is what it looked like after the chimney was removed, ie the first attempt to repair. Hope this helps. Mike

Hi. thanks for the reply, some more details. A persistent damp patch over the last 5/6 years. Outside bedroom upper wall faces south, clear view of the sun, no shadows. Chimney up from the lounge below, goes up on the outside of the bedroom through the hipped tiled roof. Lower outside part of the chimney goes through a lower floor extension, no damp there! Some years ago, an inspection of the upper chimney and apron were in poor condition therefore it was decided to remove both (apron & chimney). Roofing Contractor did both but seeming did a poor job in replacing the roofing felt. The dampness persisted!! It was decided to redo the roof 2 years ago, tile and felt were removed new felt batten and replace tiles. This again to no avail, dampness still there!! Again, redoing the hip but going further around the hip to include the hip ridge tiles, this time we included a dry verge (if that’s the right term) under the bottom row of tiles, into the guttering. The outer layer of bricks from the chimney, on the outer bedroom wall were also removed as the pointing and bricks were poor. This required a new lintel and wall of bricks these were then covered with a waterproof render. Leaving a small cavity, in the chimney, upto the level of the inner ceiling rafter. This again to no avail, dampness still there!! It is now proposed to look at the ridge tiles beyond the point of the hip. The dampness is mainly centered between the two windows and not much below the window. My current contention is that the water is running down the centre roof rafter and over the wall plate, into the inner wall. The other thought is condensation in the Chimney but it seems that this would require a great deal of moisture, as the inner wall is showing some 28/30% on a meter. The fireplace in the lounge has been blocked via a Balloon but this was well after the dampness started. Albeit the fire in our time here has never been used. Hope this helps. thanks in advance mike

Yes, will be back shortly MIKE

Just wondering if someone could help? As you can see from the photo the wall between and just below the window sill is damp. This is the upper part of an old chimney, which is closed off and the external part has been removed and the roofing partially renewed. Also the outer part of the chimney (bricks) have been removed and replaced with waterproof render. The central part of the dampness reads some 25/28% on a dampness meter ! Can anyone shed any light on this? thanks in advance mike.

The Yellow Bus co. In Bournemouth closed last week after 120 years. survived two worlds wars a couple of stock market crash’s and the pandemic. But not Putins special operation Mike

Further thoughts would be a power supply! number of issues first being house runs on extension leads. I think at present we are using 11, don’t ask!!! mike

Hi sometimes much later depending on what the game is and who’s winning! reply to both of you I must admit I was not going to go that far but I will look into it. If you have any experience of these any leads would be appreciated thanks mike

Hi just wondered if someone could help me with a quick question. We have a disabled son who requires heating most of the year and in times like these I am not looking forward to the winter. To give some background he lives with us in what is a small single story extension which is old school timber framed but has lots of insulation. The gas CH is quite some way away but is zoned from the rest of the house. He has a very powerful computer which puts out quite a few btu’s but of course is only on until midnight ish. After this the heating kicks in. There are four other rads (all on trv) in the ext but apart from the carers room these are generally set quite low., meaning at times only Paul rad is on. So when Paul’s rad goes off the boiler only cycles through the main pipes which I know is not good. Room is approx 3.5 x 4.0 x 2.2 high ( low ceiling) We have been toying with the idea of a electric panel heater? As a supplement? any thoughts anyone, I would be very appreciated. thanks in advance. mike

I use the Danlers LED dimmer switch I find it much better.From CPC Danlers Rotary & Push LED Dimmer Module, 250W. I have 6 varilight V pro dimmers but am about to change them. Hope that helps mike

If you moved the new steps nearer the stairs and put in a quarter step you will get more height for the Cupboards. HTH Mike