DC5

Thanks Nick I appreciate the ingenuity of that and will have a look. I think ideally we want to get hooked up to the mains but it’s the sheer cost involved!

Hello all, apologies for the slow reply (school holidays...!) thank you all very much for the responses. To answer some questions - Do they draw constantly, or does the supply come back at night/other time? - They don't draw constantly, but it goes off for hours at a time it feeds a very large tank and irrigation system. We did have a bit of an agreement with the owner to just draw at night but they don't keep to this and its not a long term solution. We have been without any water for 3 days at one point. How far is it from your house to the nearest water main ? Across fields or roads or ? Approx 1 km to a public Scottish water tank across field and 1 road The cost of getting the water co to install a new pipe might be high but you might be able to save a lot by either digging trenches yourself or paying a local farmer to dig them. Yes would could possibly dig trenches with a digger but its a long distance and would need to be when no crops in the field. You might have a case for misrepresentation if you can argue the sales particulars were incorrect. You might consider getting quotes from the water company and threatening court action unless the seller comes to an agreement. Then see if you can get a local farmer to dig the route for less. This has now been going on for almost 10 years, although it started about a year after purchase our solicitor says that the age will be an issue. A bore hole isn't suitable unfortunately. The original seller was almost certainly aware of the situation and the private pipe but said it was public in the home report.

Hello all, we purchased an existing rural cottage on land with services. The plan was to extend significantly rather than knock down and build new. The property was shown on the PEC report and home report as having mains water, gas and a septic tank. It turned out that the property drew water from a mains tank via a private pipe over a significant distance. Every summer a commercial user, uses said pipe for irrigation and we loose our supply. This has gone on for years, and simply connecting to the mains is problematic and costly. The seller / landowner and solicitor have gone round in circles. We cannot go on any longer with no or sporadic water supply during the summer months. The cost of connection will be significant and would prefer to recoup something legally does anyone have any suggestions? We feel the original owner would have know the situation and there were red flags which we feel the conveyancing solicitor should have been spotted. Any help appreciated.

Hi guys thanks for all the help will try those!

Hi folks, we are on a strict budget for landscaping and have quite a large area to beat into some sort of lawn. Turfing is out so I plan to seed instead. We have good free draining soil as the land was fields, however we are quite exposed to weather and in central Scotland. can anyone provide seed / grass recommendations please as I am totally clueless on this! Any help appreciated thanks.

Hi folks, Does anyone know if you are still allowed to use plastic cavity closers (around windows etc) in Scotland still? Kingspan Kooltherm ones say not for use in Scotland in the datasheet. Just curious if anyone knows the regs. Thanks. Cavity Closer

I think the priority there would be water tightness, certainly up to 300mm up the door sides. I don't think the Orcon would be suitable, I would use a high modulus silicon and then use the airtight tape to make airtight! I had to use a primer like the one below to get the tape (I used Vana) to stick to the concrete. https://insulationmerchant.com/products/pro-clima-tescon-sprimer-spray-can-primer-750ml

Thanks that’s a big help. went and had a look at membranes and tiles this afternoon, there are some big tiles on the market now!!

Hi folks, just looking for a tiller just now but considering doing it myself. Either way we have a room which is a floated slab (unheated), it is quite large around 40sqm. Can you tile directly to the slab or would some sort of delamination / movement layer be required? If so which would you recommend? Has anyone attempted this sort of area themselves? I’ve tiled plenty of kitchens and bathrooms but not in this scale. Any images or thoughts appreciated! Thanks

Hi Dave, thanks for that, this was my understanding but wanted to check. The door opens inward, is there any minimum dimensions for the step?

Hi all, can anyone help with the spec required for the step for a back door on a extension please - property is in Scotland. Please see the pic attached, I have referred this to our architect but he’s on holiday for 3 weeks now! so question is what spec is needed height wise and dimensions - do we need a slope?

Any particular type? Full round head?

Hi folks is it better to screw or nail cladding and if so any fixing brand suggestions? We start cladding in feather edge larch next week and have a lot different ways of doing it. I thought nails (stainless steel?!) might be cleaner? Any input or pics greatly appreciated. the larch has a rebate in theory hiding one fixing. Thanks

What about this!? https://www.roofingoutlet.co.uk/products/elotene-dsn-self-adhesive-vapour-barrier-10m?variant=39417717227591&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsKW-2bn__QIVPIBQBh0fawl_EAQYASABEgIhGPD_BwE

Sorry forgot to sub to this. I see the details now, I’m sure there will be a cheaper alternative to alutrix i will have a look. someone mentioned the PIR being dusty to stick an adhesive vcl to which is valid from my own experience this week for something else. I would knock the dust off with a brush then stabilise with something - maybe pro clima sprimer would work?! https://insulationmerchant.com/collections/walls/products/pro-clima-tescon-sprimer-spray-can-primer-750ml?_pos=1&_sid=8b30d352a&_ss=r