Jump to content

Lincolnshire Ian

Members
  • Posts

    182
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Lincolnshire Ian

  1. Thanks for the tip. This may be the way I need to go. How could I finish the raw hardibacker edge? The tile + adhesive could be covered by edging trim, but what could I do about the hardibacker edge between the tile edging trim and the plastered wall? Thanks
  2. It doesn't need skimming, I am trying to find an alternative way to build the wall out and still have a good seal between the tiles and shower tray.
  3. Hi folks The shower tray has been fitted and I have a 12mm gap between the edge of the shower tray and the plastered wall. My wall tiles are 8mm thick and I'm guessing the adhesive will be around 2mm. I obviously would like the tiles to overhang the shower tray to give a good waterproof seal. How could I bridge the 2/3mm gap needed without reskimming the wall. Many thanks
  4. Hi folks We are thankfully getting to stuff I understand with our build - painting, kitchen, bathrooms etc. As we approach BC Completion I'd appreciate some feedback on my "checklist" for what BC will want to see. Documents * Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC) * MVHR Commissioning Report * SAP EPC Calculation * Air Tightness Test Certificate Observations * Everything signed off from previous visits including windows. * Level threshold for entrance door. * Outwards opening downstairs toilet door. * Drain test. Have I missed anything? BC are coming for an "advice" visit next week and I would like to be prepared 😊. Thanks
  5. Hi Russell Grey aluminium sounds interesting. Do you have a pointer regarding suppliers or maybe even pictures. Thanks
  6. Hiya We have a nasty galvanised pole in our porch. I have been looking for something similar to newel post cladding to box it in and make it appear to be a solid oak post. Does anyone have any pointers for me please? Thank you.
  7. We have primed white MDF skirting boards and architrave throughout our new build. I don't enjoy painting - has anyone come across paint which will cover primed MDF in just one coat of white paint? Thanks
  8. It's just occurred to us that we are going to need flippin' long light cables for our kitchen/dining area! The kitchen has been painted and the kitchen is almost installed, but I am not on site whilst posting this so I used the picture I used to sell the plasterboard lifter! The drop from where we have the lighting cable to a "normal" light height over the kitchen and dining table is 2.6m. A vaulted ceiling seemed like a good idea, but I didn't think about the super-long drop from the cable to where we expected the light to be and the affect on positioning of the Velux windows! Any ideas please 😊
  9. Thanks Russell, that's super-helpful!
  10. Hi Folks Our build is progressing and it's nice to be thinking about room echo rather than whether our timber frame will fit on the foundations! We have a kitchen/diner which is roughly 5m x 8m and a 6m vaulted ceiling. We have tiled floors and a half-glazed gable end. The room is empty at the moment awaiting the kitchen install, but even so we anticipate a pretty monumental echo. The room will have a dining room table, small settee and a few other bits of furniture. We have underfloor heating so are wary of putting down too many rugs etc. We have been looking at acoustic panelling, this could be an option. How have others "tamed" the echo in large rooms? Thanks
  11. Hi folks We've bought Deanta pre-finished oak internal doors for our new build. We would like to try and get a close match for the staircase handrail which will also be oak. Could anyone suggest a good match of wax/lacquer/varnish/stain to get as close as possible to the Deanta colour. Many thanks
  12. Hi folks I was wondering if anyone has any experience of whether HMRC take a Council Tax Completion Notice into consideration when the clock starts ticking for the 6 month VAT reclaim. Our council will start charging us council tax 3 months after the plasterboard has gone up regardless of whether the house is finished (it won't be) and we have a Building Control Completion Certificate. Any information greatly received. Thank you.
  13. Your scenario is also ours. Can you remember what size joists and spacing? Thanks
  14. Hi folks Thanks for your previous help with designing our staircase. Our stairs have a half landing. I think from a building control perspective this is classed as a structural element. Does anyone have any tips/designs they could share to help us build a solid half landing? Thanks
  15. Just been to Stairbox in Stoke. Long drive, but worth it. Looked at lots of design options in their showroom and an expert on hand to help us design the stairs. We haven't taken delivery yet (two week lead time), but so far so good.
  16. We've got a trusted joiner who has done a brilliant job so far with cladding, plasterboarding etc who is going to fit the stairs. Having tried the online staircase builders (TK and Stairbox), I've found that I really want to talk to someone face-to-face to discuss tolerances, the spacing between the stringers for a staircase with a half-landing, attachment details for the balustrade to the stringer, etc. The best option I have found so far is Stairbox - they have a showroom attached to their factory and someone available to help with the design.
  17. Hi We are looking at staircase design and would appreciate some advice. Having used the staircase design tools for Stairbox and TK Stairs I am lacking the confidence to place an order for my stairs with a half landing without visiting a showroom and sitting down with someone who understands this stuff. I understand that Stairbox have a showroom and I'm planning a visit. It seems that TK Stairs don't have a showroom. Are there any other staircase manufacturers with showrooms I could visit? We are in Lincolnshire, but prepared to travel. Thanks
  18. Thanks for the responses everyone. The break wasn't clean, lots of little bits which are dispersed in the scaffold mat. Gluing isn't an option. I have a new piece being delivered on Monday.
  19. Hi folks I need to replace a cast stone window cill following an accident with a scaffolding plank (see picture). As the wall is rendered I clearly need to do whatever needs doing very carefully. To remove the cill I am planning to protect the surrounding area with plastic sheeting to avoid getting dust on the render. Then use a combination of drill and grinder to remove the damaged unit as carefully as possible. Can anyone think of a way to improve upon my approach? Many thanks
  20. Update on the render mess all over the scaffolding. As suggested, the scaffolders were pretty chilled. I helped things along with a pack of beer each and everyone was happy 😊
  21. I love the capital NOT 😊. We'll just leave it.
  22. Hi We are dismantling the scaffolding next week and are a little worried that we will be charged a "cleaning free". This hasn't been mentioned anywhere in our agreement with the scaffolding company, but our renderers have left a residue on many of the boards. We will do our best to clean the boards ourselves, but we don't want to get too vigorous and splash our lovely new render. If I get a fee, fair everything, but just wondering whether anyone else has encountered this. Thanks
  23. Absolutely. I was fuming when the guy who put in the fascia, soffit and guttering used random screws he had in his pockets rather than the stainless steel screws of various sizes we supplied. Too lazy to walk down the scaffolding to replenish his supply. We had to check and swap every mild steel screw! Needless to say, he won't be doing the downpipes!
×
×
  • Create New...