DannyT

Anyone interested in 200mm cavity wall ties, some for sale in the market place on here 😉 Ive had to reduce down to a 150mm cavity due to foundations already been in so can’t build any closer to edge of concrete to pass building control. disappointed but I’ll ad 25mm PIR to the inside to gain a little back.

I’m assuming the membrane will be air and vapour permeable to allow vapour out and air in to flow between the gaps in the sarking board? Thats a different membrane to the standard “breathable” type and more than likely expensive. Sorry if gone off topic a bit but just thinking out loud 😁

@JohnMo Thankyou. It’s so hard to find pictures of an install onto sarking and you have provided. Much appreciated👍 That looks very tidy indeed. Is that a swallow/swift box on the gable?

The house is currently going through planning for changes from the original design. In the meantime I’m trying to get my head around the Scottish way of doing a few things. Standard traditional roof construction from what I understand is as follows, Truss Sarking boards Breathable membrane Slate Now if I’m having built in GSE solar trays, my understanding is we will have to do following, Truss Sarking boards Breathable membrane Counter batten Tile batten Slate Is this correct? It’s okay to have the membrane flat with no slack or would membrane go on top of counter batten and be droopy? Trying to create a thin verge without any facia so looking how to achieve this on the gable ends. cheers

NHBC will do random wall plate checks, say every 10th house. Looking for gaps in socks, etc. checking everything structurally before roof gets felted in also. More about just closing off the cavity on a detached house and getting a box ticked. The real fussiness with fire socks/barriers comes when you are on semi detached or apartments and fire needs to be contained to a single unit.

We fit them under the ladder. As a full sock and cut at the top. NHBC inspector states that socks can’t be bent around a corner. Should be butt jointed. Sock should be a snug fit to either side of the cavity. If the cavity has spread a little over the height of the building we will either fit a wider sock or 2 thinner ones compressed together. The thing is as a bricklayer, we are responsible for fitting them according to management. We are also told how vital they are since the disaster at Grenfell. However we have never had any official training on fitting them nor do we get paid any extra for it.

I did this for that very reason. Sealed weather proof unit. A breaker switch for each string between panels and inverter. Clearly labelled solar power shut off. Mine was a DIY install so wanted to go beyond the normal standard.

I’ve seen this happen on my parents house. I built the house and while working inside with house weather tight I could hear dripping in the cavity onto a tray. knocked a block out and the back of brickwork was soaking. Rain had been driving across open fields for 2-3 days. Mainly coming through the mortar joints. Coated the brickwork with a breathable sealer. Cavity trays are a must.

You could just box in above the door, insulate and membrane but you will have to clad the exterior for weather protection. on the other hand a 9 inch “T” lintel with brickwork to match on exterior. Depends how much you want to put into it.

You keep the face of the 100mm flush with the block underneath and let the back overhang 5mm.

I just commented on your other post but as a bricklayer in a 3-1 we get some work down in a day and your quote is taking the piss. What’s the £500 for tools? £9600 foreman? All of the gang should be capable of reading drawings, organising etc.

As a bricklayer of 22 years. Let me tell you now that day rate for a bricklayer is about £230 and £160 for a labourer. For £300 day rate, I’d want a 10hr shift done. £675 a thousand on standard stretcher bond and bucket handle pointing. £17m2 on 4inch concrete or thermalite.

600mm cavity tray on top of lintel, turned up at both ends, normally at least a brick and a half past the door/window reveal to ensure lintel is covered. Weep vents every 450mm (2 bricks) max. 450mm tray can be a bit of a stretch on 150mm cavity. Some sites now make us lay a tray below window if it has stone cill with weep vent either end. Not necessary in my opinion.

So it’s level, plumb and straight but guilty of not using a jointer to point it up and the crap blocks are falling to pieces as they are coming out of the packs ( common at work to throw half a pack at a time in skip ) I’d tell him to flush the joints up, get the insulation in now and leave him to crack on. I’ve seen a lot worse than that. How much are you paying a m2 labour.

This is how we are told by NHBC to do it at work now but I can tell you now, my gable ends won’t be sitting on any cavity tray. Why would you want a non bonded slip joint running the length of your gables in gale force Winds?

Here you go. don’t know where to source them from or how much they are in the UK but lintels that have the blind hidden inside of them. Im like you and want them hidden on a rendered house so need 6 for south and west facing. Im avoiding big sliders/bi folds now. Went to the dentist last week and they have patio doors facing west and it were roasting in there and that was in march.

The reason been is that it just does not matter. I’ll build the outside, jump inside and set a block one end and run one through to the other. Your internal dimensions will be 400/500/600mm shorter than the outside due to cavity so bond will be different.

Thank-you for your reply. some things you mentioned that I hadn’t considered. I’ll be getting prices off the usual suspects. pre anodised and powder coating will be a big factor then with the costal location. Marine grade stainless steel hardware maybe? I have looked at some external opening profiles and do think they would hold the weather out better but that’s something I can discuss with manufacturers. windows will be my biggest cost and the one thing I can’t do so this has to to be correct. cheers

Anyone here have any experience or knowledge of specifying windows and doors for exposed locations. South west Scotland is the location, open fields, 1km from coast. Wind and driving rain are the concerns. Im set on aluclad windows as like the wood inside but modern out along with the thermal properties on offer. I have read somewhere in the past I should maybe looking at outward opening windows? we also planned on a Triple section sliding door in living room about 4.8m but concerned about driving rain getting through the sliding seals and bowing of windows in high winds. Any recommendations or experience much appreciated.

So the straps depending on vaulted ceiling or not would run across the bottom of the cable end, some up the cut up and maybe a couple in the middle if it’s a standard truss roof. They blockwork goes beyond the underside of rafter so that it is sandwiched between the rafter and the strap and can’t move outwards or blown back in. I have rarely built a cut up with the strap over the top of the rafter. They are normally under the rafter and built in 150mm-200mm below the top of the cuts.

To answer your bricklaying question. Im ment to be back at work today but wont be going in. I won’t be laying a brick at all this week. Temps are not getting high enough and don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. mortar will freeze and blow. Blue bricks can take day to dry on a good day. Cold weather they won’t set. Seen it many times. The standard was 3c and rising but with the lows we be having there’s no chance. If they think it’s acceptable to carry on, you need to have a chat with them.

Finally got a design we feel happy with. We have a en-suite now for the second bedroom. The fish equipment room is now on the utility side as I have found out I can run the pipes from the reef tank, under the floor and into fish room. kitchen has changed to a run of tall units to house oven, coffee machine etc with work surface only at the breakfast bar with sink and hob. Minimal look. I have a 2m x 2m hobby room behind a bookshelf door. I wanted somewhere to draw, build scale models etc but not be on show and at the same time not be out the way so that’s just off living/kitchen area. Centre wall will be block to take a ridge beam of 7.5m each side (15m total) to give more flexibility on roof construction. We think the design works for us. It’s not massive. Room sizes work for us going off what we have now. en-suites been just over 2.1m x 2.1m Tried to get things to line through, like entrance to living through with centre of sliding doors and window behind. Main bedroom door opens to window in front of it. Wall at end of hall way for artwork instead of a door. Rear door into utility with toilet to one side and plant room off utility. This design maximises the whole foundation that is there at present with a few additions within for supporting walls. I will deal with shading the west windows to prevent overheating if it’s needed. Prefer not to have anything other than glass coating. Any opinions welcome.

Just below the sole plate. You can’t render the 150mm strip over it and you don’t want it hanging below cladding on sight.

1. Yes, cut the dpc 15mm longer than sole plate. 2.personally I’d start the first row off slightly lower than dpc. Just make sure you have plenty of clearance between finished landscaping and first row of cladding. Also have a look at how your door sills and first row will look/work. 3. Yes I can see a problem here. Someone’s got to go around the house, laying on the floor, beading and rendering a 150mm strip with part of it been behind cladding. this should be done first.

When we do a brickwork skin, we cut it slightly longer than sole plate and staple along the sole plate with plenty of staples. With it been clad in timber I’d do the same. You may have a timber nailed all along the bottom to close off the cavity behind cladding that will clamp it in place also.