Spinny

Take a very close look at the MLCP connectors because they choke down the bore of the pipe to a huge degree at every connection. I think I measured the internal bore of a 16mm MLCP connector as just 6mm diameter. You might like to take a look at this system which flares the ends of the pipe and avoids choking off the flow... https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/47102-elbow-fittings-flow-loss/#findComment-658055 As I have said before MLCP is an attractive system for plumbers, but not for end customers given the risk of flow problems.

It is not just British Gas unfortunately. 88 year old family member with dementia had a boiler breakdown with a service contract. As his boiler was old he asked them for a new one and was passed onto the sales team. Next thing they send a salesman around to his house, who then sends him a quote to replace his UVC system with a combi boiler. Was a hell of a job for us to get things unwound and sorted for him - endless phone calls, emails, medical documents, LPA documents. Fortunately the subcontract maintenance plumber (who had once been a carer) knew what they were like and was very helpful. Too many companies are happy to rip off the elderly it seems.

Maybe you can try to identify exactly where the noise is coming from, does it eminate from the fixing points, or the overlaps, or movement against the battens etc ? Not sure how you do that, but maybe you could rig up a test piece at ground level replicating the roof structure, then apply heat ? Maybe you could photograph/measure the sheets/fixings etc when cold and hot in different places ? I can only say plumbing felt helps a lot with noise from copper plumbing/heating pipes expanding and contracting as they get hot and cold. They eliminate the friction between the pipes and the joists they pass through. So if you could identify the exact source, you might be able to insert some felt or other material which allows movement without noise

As any limit will apply to any one single door with the total width of the opening being irrelevant, and you said 3.5m, I assumed you must be referring to a minimum opening of 7m with two 3.5m wide sliding doors. With a sufficient number of doors, doubtless you could do it in PVC e.g. 7 sliding doors each 0.5m wide. Probably going to look a bit shit though. Are you thinking of two doors each 1.75m wide and 2.7m high ? Or perhaps 3 doors each 1.2m wide, requiring three tracks ? Maybe type ''how wide can a upvc sliding door be'' into google AI ?

If someone is having an opening as large as 7m by 2.7m, I can't really fathom why they would WANT PVC rather than aluminium.

i'd have thought start with a list of the objectives that you are actually trying to achieve. What is the goal of this security system ? We appear to live in a world where the police are more interested in responding to thought crime accusations than actual break ins. The prisons are full and so there is limited interest in punishing offenders. Security systems are typically about monitoring and response, but don't necessarily substitute for high levels of physical security measures. There are a plethora of DIY solutions around. If really going the professional route then an overall assessment from a security professional might be better than just selecting an alarm vendor.

I know nothing about slate work, but in Pic 6 shouldn't each layer of slates sit flush and against the row below. Rather looks like the wind would get under some of those slates and potentially pull them off. And have you tried putting a hosepipe over it ? Every sympathy as I know how challenging it can be to find good tradespeople. At least you have a chance to get it redone before winter.

No, no, no, no, yes, yes, no, no, no. Don't worry hob run is 2.2m long with a socket towards either end, well clear of the hob itself.

Looks like we are going to stick with 910 for the alleyway. We don't have the dishwasher problem as have gone for F&P dishdrawers. Moving the table 700 from the wall on the other side is significantly better than 650. Someone sat eating will need 450mm from the table - at 700mm total this leaves 250mm behind their chair - but if they do the usual temporary pull in of chair to let their neighbour out, then you get about 300mm behind the chair and most people can then slip out. In addition at 700mm you can stand against the edge of the table with the chair behind your legs and it is still clear of the wall. So this allows people to side step to the middle chair, cinema seat style and then sit down. Likewise they can get out this way if the person alongside pops out or swings their legs sideways. So we get, 700mm from wall, 900mm table, 150mm chair fully in, leaving 1150mm passage alongside island with no-one eating. With someone eating we get 300mm less alleyway or 850mm - still plenty of room to fetch and serve behind them. For the odd dinner party we might temporarily move the table out to 750mm or even 800mm for fat uncle albert. It is Mr & Mrs Albert O'Nuts and their drunken son pissed-Archie-O-Nuts 🤣😬🤮 When people come and inevitably mill about chatting while the meal is cooking, we hope the 910mm alley will help keep them on the far side of the island rather than getting under the cooks feet on 'the wrong side'. (PS We could I suppose knock it down and build a bigger extension, but I think I said that before when it was 2.2m wide.😉)

Shelled out a fiver for a pair of aviation snips for the toolbox which went through like a knife through butter - box out. Just have to get in a new one symmetrical with the other side of the hob, but they won't be templating for the glass splashback for a while.

Supplied drawers are 29cm total depth (perhaps 30cm with small projecting thing at rear). So I would be wanting 32cm (or 33cm including rear projecting thing). Do you have a link @dpmiller? Do they only do 300mm or 350mm etc ? If so that would explain why my kitchen has come with 300mm drawers inside a 330mm internally carcase.

Yes have found a small 'Blum' etched on them. Then seem to take a snap in cover piece with the kitchen brand name on. So can I buy identical replacements to any measurement from Blum, they are soft close using some gizmo on the runners ?

Thanks. I think both cables are in plastic conduit. Nervous of using a multitool to cut the box as easy to slip and damage the cable. Can I buy Aviation snips, or some kind of nibbling tool to cut the box ? Also when I put the new one in, is it permissible to cut the front section out of one entry hole so that I can slide one cable in from the front of the box ?

So I need to move an electrical box about 40mm to the right - see photo. The box is loose but how do I get it out without damaging the cables ?

I recall asking about the drawer depth because we want to keep dinner plates in there. A 270mm dinner plate just squeezes into the drawer depth, but remember thinking the drawers would take 300mm plates. It frustrates me when you pay a lot for something where efficient use of space is always critical and then the manufacturer just can't be bothered not to design out completely unnecessary wasted space. I come from the aerospace industry where people work with microns. iwould never expect that, but just chucking inches away seems bizarre, lazy, and rather poor. Yes they have a showroom, but likely not this depth of cabinet within it. I did challenge some holes in the oak look shelving unit that then have to have plastic covers, but got nowhere on that. They can make a cabinet width to a mm but insist on drilling unnecessary fixing holes in display shelves.