Spinny

Bigger than my house. Perhaps you kick a ball for a living.😁 Make sure you overlay the lighting plan onto the ceiling structural plan to avoid clashes.

We have an eclisse door - architrave less. Yes required another carpenter after the builder's carpenters attempt to get it lined up properly - in all 3 dimensions. Ours supposed to be 125mm but is actually 128mm when built - eclisse technical unable to explain this. Supposed to be a 75mm pocket double boarded with 12.5mm plasterboard on both sides - but that didn't work with the plasterer. So it has ended up with 9.5mm board plus 12.5mm habito board, plus skim coat. Seems to be a pig to find doors with sufficient timber at the top and bottom to rout out for the fittings. The brush seals supplied do not seal against the door but leave a gap - if anyone knows where I could source longer replacement brush seal strips I would be grateful. May post some pics later. Soft close/anti-slam is nice, but you can't have both that and touch latch out of the pocket - so we have a finger pull in the end to pull out. As we changed the plasterboard thickness I sourced shorter plasterboard screws on amazon to avoid screws fouling the door. Frame is supposed to be mounted at FFL but we will be cuting the bottom of the door down once the flooring is fitted. Who wants an 8mm gap under the door - not I.

Some of the switches say this under details ... ''UV Stimulated Glow In The Dark PIP'' So may be they don't light up, just give a flourescent glow in the dark look ? I am looking for some nice retractive switches myself - so if you have any other suggestions to look at will be much appreciated. (PS If using for 24V LED strip, is it better to have the switch in front of the transformer, or use a smart/virtual switch)

OP appears to be in Liverpool. Barbed wire required on residential streets. And the ferrari inside perhaps.

You don't mention the size, but is sounds substantial. Having watched my plank like neighbours building without construction drawings, I can only say you need a proper architect/designer/structural specifier. I don't say builders can never design, but well builders can almost never design. A camel is a horse designed by a builder etc. There is always far more to achieving a good building than might meet the eye. Having a rough idea or a planning drawing is not going to cut it. Aesthetics are important to achieve something that doesn't look like a wart on the landscape. There are many technical aspects from opening sizes, positions etc to provide good light, to insulation, to ventilation, to acoustics, to services like power, lighting, heating, drainage, water supply. Structural engineering. Also layout and ergonomics. And many choices to make. The end result comes from the planning and thought put into it. Thinking it out now means lines on paper and is easily changed, building without construction plans will see you missing things and blundering around, knocking things down again, or producing the most hideous object. In building, if it is worth doing - it is worth doing well. The building will last for decades or centuries. In a few years time you will wish you had spent the money getting it right when prices were low.

What clips do people use for mounting 15mm copper pipe etc flush to the wall ?

Any timber cladding within 1m of the boundary is too much.

Regarding the extension. I very strongly recommend you talk to your neighbour about this at the earliest stage. It is already obvious to anyone with half a brain that digging such holes is a prelude to a building project. When you have some plans give your neighbour a copy and ask them about any concerns they may have. If they have concerns talk to your architect and see how they might be alleviated. It isn't always possible, but even the smallest modification to your plans will demonstrate that you are not selfish gits, but empathic members of the human race capable of trying to see things from the point of view of others and taking their concerns into account. Trust me, get off on the wrong foot - as our neighbours deliberately chose to do by sneakily submitting secret plans for approval the day before Xmas - and there is no way back.

I am not sure the comments above are clear enough. Yes you do not need to use Party Wall Surveyors to establish a Party Wall Agreement or Award. However to make sure you have some agreement that stands up to any scrutiny in the event of an incident, problem, or dispute arising, then I believe you should carefully follow the advice and guidance on complying with the Party Wall Act which is published on line. This includes various template documents to use for writing to your neighbour and gaining their agreement etc etc. Just pinging an email and getting an email 'ok' is unlikely to be good enough. You have to bear in mind the worst case - say you dig a hole and the neighbour experiences some structural damage ? Now he wants you to pay and you end up in dispute. An informal randomly worded email exchange will be worth naff all in court. When having to deal with my nasty neighbour and his PW Surveyor - the paperwork explicitly required people to give written signed consent to the use of email for example. Email can be a questionable tool which can and does get misused. Some people will email stuff at 6pm on a friday after you have just left for a 2 week holiday, then claim you didn't object, so they knocked down your boundary wall while you were away. Some people, like me. don't read emails every day or at weekends - because - because I am supposed to be retired and I have done my decades of slavery to email nonsense. For something to stand up in court I believe it should be sent registered post and signatures witnessed for example.

Don't know. They may also be interested in your plans to build a 2 storey extension.

So I have kitchen cabinet people saying they normally just stick the LED strip to the underside of the worktop. Worktop people say it can be stuck on the bottom, but they can also cut a rebate in the underside of the quartz, for which there is no standard size rebate, and customer needs to specify depending on strip size used. . Anyone have this in their kitchen ? I guess you do @nod - did you buy the strip ?

Anyone used LED strip under the edge of a kitchen worktop ? Does it need to be IP65 or is IP20 going to be fine ? Does it need to be 8mm wide, could I use 10mm addressable ? Need to rebate the underside edge of the work top ?

How it is going... Shelves to follow in due course.

Looking at the rooflight makes me concerned regarding the edges adjacent to the LED profile etc... The plaster is grainy/gritty adjacent to the profile and in places near the top bead. The profile was filled with a foam strip to keep it clean during plastering at the plasterers request - but maybe not a good idea ?

Bristol area.