Spinny

Both our kitchen and utility sinks are stainless steel and will be undermounted to quartz worktop. We have asked for the worktop cut outs to be sized to match the sink bowl without an overhang. Partly preference, partly because we will have hook over sink accessories, partly to preserve the bowl size for ease of use. So I am wondering how we can ensure that the worktop fitters seal the join between the sink and the worktop in a clean and tidy manner ? We have been thinking use a clear silicon sealant, but should we be masking up the edge of the sink bowl with masking tape before they come to fit ? Should we get the silicon ourselves ? I have seen references to sinks being sealed to the worktop with the worktop placed upside down - however I severely doubt that the fitters are remotely likely to do such a thing ? The island has a sink and is 3m by 1m and 30mm quartz - they were indicating it would take 5 people to carry it in. The sinks are currently on supporting framework in the units so I imagine they will just want to silicon the sink and drop the worktop onto the top ? How can we ensure we end with a nice tidy seal between sink and worktop ?

Meanwhile elsewhere... https://wattsupwiththat.com/2026/09/10/there-have-been-no-hurricanes-in-the-atlantic-yet-making-2026-the-quietest-since-satellite-tracking-began-in-1966/

You might find something in powder coated aluminium. There are companies that do aluminium cladding for columns etc that might have something or make something bespoke.

SWMBO has chosen one with a small frame at the edge with the specific opinion that this will help keep spills on the hob. I think the flush mounted can look very cool (saw a white one in a white worktop somewhere) but do we actually want hobs where the boiling over and the spills and spits etc are free to run over the worktop ?

Looks like it may have been around a while but not catching on. So now you have to guess whereabouts to put your pans. So now you just destroyed that mobile phone someone left on the invisible induction area. So now it is invisible, except for the kitchen extractor positioned prominently above it. So now you have to choose a compatible worktop only.

Possibly the ugliest thing I have ever seen TBH !

I think traditionally the connection hose always had a right angle where it screwed in to connect to the back of the machine, and then a straight connector on the other end to connect to the supply. Our new machine has the hose integrated with the machine and with a water leak detector/shut-off on the water supply end which is straight. We had a minor celebration at the weekend because for the first time in 3 years and 8 months the weekly wash did not have to be taken to the laundrette !

Yes, definitely something to watch out for. I printed out all the dimensions for our washer to use for planning, and the plumber said the dryer would be slimmer than the washer, which I also expected. However when I did check the heat pump dryer dimensions I was shocked to find it actually deeper than the washer. Indeed I think it was 610mm deep and therefore incapable of ever being fitted in the standard 600 by 600 space. The manufacturers seem to compete heavily on machine capacity and so are constantly trying to make the drums bigger - pushing ever outwards at the back and at the front by making the front panel and the door stick ever further forward.

Sometimes of course it is not possible to put the connection in the adjacent cupboard because the adjacent cupboard is another appliance or a drawer unit etc. This is the case with us and we have the room (670mm worktop depth) to position the connector behind the machine - however we have ensured the supply pipe has a shut off valve under the sink. Regarding height, don't forget some washing machines and dishwashers these days can come with leak detection and shut-off devices attached to the water input pipe. These can be 3-4 inches long, so if mounting the connector facing down for example you probably need at least 6 inches and probably a bit more for the water shut off device and the bend in the pipe.

Our kitchen island will have a quartz worktop with one waterfall end and an end panel at the other end. The kitchen company have proposed that the worktop should overhang the cabinets below by 5mm as standard. Although on the back side of the island we have some open shelving and therefore dispensing with the overhang altogether and having the worktop flush with the shelving unit on this side will likely look sharper. However we have realised that the waterfall end has to match the worktop in width. Therefore the waterfall piece will not match the width of the end panel at the other end of the island to the extent of any overhang. That is, End Panel is 980mm wide. But with two 5mm overhangs the waterfall end would need to be 990mm wide, or with one side flush and one with a 5mm overhang it would need to be 985mm. (Note we have no barstools or breakfast bar overhang anywhere on the island) So how have others dealt with this ? Just accept one end of the island being slightly wider than the other ? Have no overhang on the backside of the island to keep that room facing side nice and flush ? (We have templating tomorrow)

Schmidt showrooms are run as a franchise network. So sales and installation and customer service can vary dependent on the location but the product is from the same manufacturer/supplier. We have never bought a new kitchen before and clearly there are some particular details to look out for that are not made evident, such as plinth detail, drawer depth that doesn't match cabinet depth, unnecessarily large service voids, standardised units pre-drilled with visible holes, exact light positions etc. Obviously if you are not having it custom made (which can have it's own issues) there are going to be constraints from standardisation, but some of them are subtle.

Yes, once you are standing about 1.5m or further away you can see them. And of course more so if sitting. Thus they appear to be colour coded to match the plinth colour. Dirt is presumably going to collect in the gap they leave, and presumably they will get dirty in time and need replacing or removing to wash. Given that walls are finished with skirting and no further 'protection' it seems a very questionable practice. Why not just use something moisture resistant in the first place to make the plinths. I would suspect it is at least as much about saving fitting costs by avoiding any scribing into uneven floors ? Odd that any panels in contact with the floor have sealed panel ends and are not treated in the same way. This system is cutting off sealed plinth bottom edge to insert the protective strip. How common is this practice ? AI tells me... So another little something deliberately omitted from the sales pitch. I will be taking another look in the showroom as I don't remember seeing any on the show kitchens.

You might want to have a careful look at all the info on the build over process and requirements on the ST website. I am in a different area, but I would imagine you may have a similar process where there are criteria about how far from sewers you need to be building - if you don't meet them you need ST approval. Then potentially possibly a self certification questionnaire you can complete to record that you meet criteria for not needing permission OR a form to complete to request approval where you have to give answers to relevent questions. Someone will then likely look at your request and the answers you gave and make a decision. You might therefore want to carefully consider EXACTLY what words you use to answer the questions. A garage might be described as 'build a new garage', 'extend my garage', or 'extend my property'. The last description may tick the box, the first may get a computer says no type answer. My neighbour deliberately gamed the system for his side extension and built over the lateral drain into my property without getting approval. Simply on the basis that it wasn't 'the extension' he was building over the drain, but a 4.5 ft high planter wall and raised platform. Potentially your neighbour had his extension and garage done under one set of combined plans, which was then all a home extension and therefore met criteria ? Don't think that anyone spent hours pouring over your requirement, it is likely processed by someone without much knowledge or brain, or any discretion. They just read the request form and apply simple rules based on the words you have used and give an answer. You might also want to consider getting planning approval first - more credible than a speculative enquiry which uses all the wrong trigger words.

Kitchen fitter has done the plinths and completely unexpectedly and never previously communicated, has routed the bottom edge of all the plinths (which had finished board edges anyway) and inserted a sealing strip - see photos. On asking what this is I have been told it is a water seal to stop liquid running under the plinth. Really not sure what I think of this. Don't like it aesthetically, will it get dirty over time ?, is it really necessary at all ?, is it just a crafty way of dealing with uneven floors ? We lived in our old kitchen (fitted by previous owner in late 1980's) for 30 years and never had a problem with the plinths which didn't have anything like this ? Is this normal now ? Can I, should I reject it ? Anyone else got this type of thing ?

Quite. I agree. Fitter just arrived again this morning, trying to tell me the floor brackets need to go back in. I have said no. Given the panel must itself be straight not warped, if the front edge is not running plumb vertical then it must mean the back edge is not fixed to the wall plumb vertical. Putting a floor bracket in to forcibly push the front of the panel upright so it is in tension cannot be right. It was all fitted once before the floor went down then removed to put the floor down due to missing parts. In refitting it the floor is therefore now about 5mm higher - 2.5 smoothing compound and 2.5 LVT. However fitter decided to fit the small back wall brackets into the same holes in panel and wall - consequently they are twisted downward by about 5mm now. Just lacks due care and attention. Never had a new kitchen fitted. I guess the best way to do it is get your own excellent fitter. Then they are working for you not the kitchen company and if you want to pay them to take twice the time fitting it you can ?