junglejim

I’m running into difficulty framing the corner between barge board and fascia. Here’s an old photo (we’re a lot further on now) but I think it illustrates what I think may be a problem. Rather than birds mouth with the bottom of the rafter extending beyond and below the wall the rafter is cut flat to the wall plate which leaves no overhang of the wall. If planned on fixing the soffit to the bottom of the rafter bit it leaves little overlap between the top of the wall and soffit. I didn’t think it was a problem but I think makes it more difficult to create a box corner. For example the barge board on the verge ideally needs to come down lower than the fascia. When I’m on site next I’ll takes some photos of where I’m at but wondering if anyone has any thoughts? Thanks

Thanks Russell that’s helpful and exactly what I was wondering.

Yes no problem without but wondering what others do?

I’m cladding my timber frame house using thermo ayous. I’ve tuned boards to make reveals for the windows that butt up against the frame. I’m wondering whether I should run a bead of silicone sealant sling the joint for weather tightness?

Yes

I’m cladding the gable end of timber frame and wondering about venting the top to allow airflow…, presumably a vented soffit is needed to achieve this?

On closer inspection I think the concealed drainage comes out at the top of the cill. So presumably ok to tape underneath the cill to timber frame junction. Feels counterintuitive to leave an air gap on an airtight house but also counterintuitive to block any moisture exit. I’d prefer to tape all around though I think and prevent moisture from entering in the first place. Any further comments welcome. Thanks

Thanks @jayc89 we’ve got aluminium windows (sheerline prestige) which I think have concealed drainage. I’m not sure about the route for this or whether there’s a reason not to seal underneath regardless… I was wondering whether the bottom should be open in case of any condensation. Probably way over thinking this but want to get it right. thanks for the advice.

I’m building a timber frame home and trying to achieve airtightness. I’ve taped external windows top and sides and will be taping internally as well as adding low expansion foam. I’m wondering about the bottom of the outside of the window? I’m sure I read not to tape the bottom to allow any condensation/moisture a route out. Is this correct? Thanks

This is probably a contradiction I suspect everyone will say “buy new” but… I’ve got an old 1920s front door that we love and would like to use on our new timber frame build. We’re going as airtight and insulated as we can so this door is obviously a weak point but I’m wondering if there are solutions out there so that we can make the door as airtight as possible? 🤞🤞

I’m trying to work out the detail of a skylight on an outdoor lean to. I think a rafter glazing bar with laminated glass would be good. One edge is along tiles and I think it probably needs to be flush to the tiles so that the gutter line is correct. I’m looking for suggestions on what I would need to make the tile - glazing junction? Many thanks

Thanks yes I was wondering about the gap between that and the hip tile edge which will have a gap… probably overthinking this but keen for a neat finish.

Trying to work out how to lay the hip so that wind / weather doesn’t get in where the tiles step down…. Would seem to be an advantage of using cement or maybe a combo unless I’m missing something? Image is for an example but likely to use similar. Or contemplating lead… any thoughts? Thanks

I’m looking for advice on the detail between lean to and timber frame house. I’ve posted on another part of this site but looking for specific advice about onto timber frame. Here’s the original post: Thanks for the help.

@Russell griffiths can I ask why you didn’t either tape the lead to the membrane or attach a piece of membrane to the current membrane and overlap the lead?

Thanks. I hadn’t really anticipated the extra challenge of water running in under the cill. I’ll be adding vertical cladding which will shed most of the water over the flashing but appreciate some may go behind in which case I wonder if some kind of flash band to seal the lead to membrane / below window might be prudent. or perhaps cutting the membrane and lapping lead underneath?

Thanks @Russell griffiths. That’s helpful. I’ve lapped the roof membrane into the breather so anything going behind will run down. I’m interested to see what you did though… do you have any photos?

Going to be starting this abutment to cladding in the next couple of weeks. I’ll be using vertical cladding so double battening (onto timber frame). Any tips or insights appreciated. many thanks

We’ve just had joiners framing out for our porch overhang. We wanted to include a glazed section to let light into the window below so they’ve left a gap and also reinforced above with timber framing. I’m looking for suggestions on how we could glaze this… I’m thinking of a couple of rafters to create 2 rectangular sections and glaze in there (slightly different from architects impression) but I’m unsure about how to go about framing and flashing a glazing unit. Also whether the framing above is necessary as we were going to batten, board and render that section but it’s now protruding and would seem to complicate the airflow too… any ideas and advice welcome as always. Thank you

Looking for some advice on how to finish this hip and match into the roof? Am I right to think dry ridge on the hip, angled cut at the top and lead flashing tucked under main roof tiles? note: the glazing is going to be changed to 2 rectangles between rafters rather than along the hip (something else I’m trying to work out!) thanks for any tips.

Thanks yes makes sense. I’m trying to figure out the surface water drainage as have soakaway in the back garden. If I drop the gutter at the front then I’ll need a drainage run to the soakaway but again seems a long way ie 25m from front of house. I’m considering aco drainage along the side if the house and wondering if it’s possible to drop the down pipe into this but again with that distance seems like it could need a lot of fall and aco could end up low. 🤔 Also Would using larger guttering negate the need for multiple down pipes?

I’m going to be adding gutters soon to our new build and trying to work out; 1. What the fall angle is. 2. How to align gutter accurately 3. what’s the maximum gutter run? The side of the house is approx 17m and I’d also like to connect to front gutter (9m). Ideally I’d like these to run to the back of the house down a single downpipe but not sure how doable this is. I’m thinking that the further down gutter I go the lower it will be on the fascia which over 26m could be significant and means that it’s too low. However I’m sure I’ve seen houses with very long gutter runs. Any advice appreciated. Thank you

I’m wondering if there’s any mileage in filling the base of the RSJ with mortar? But probably not ideal from a cold bridging perspective.

Here’s a photo of how it is currently. Will obviously need to dig out the ground as well.

Figured a drawing would be useful as still a bit unsure of the best way to finish this. Thanks for all the tips.