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Hi @Dreadnaught @Roundtuit could you please pm me company names as I am local, I am looking for a good timberframe supplier

Thanks @Ferdinand, I removed them.

Hi,

Yes its due to south glazing, But resistance from family not to reduce glazing further ?.....hopefully slab cooling will be the best option

yes we are having insulated reinforced-concrete raft foundation

and my designer said Radiators on Ground floor and just heated Towel rails on First floor bathrooms. we like UFH on ground floor, but he said its not necessary to have UFH with existing design

yes @Dreadnaught, we do have Mains Gas

Hi @PeterStarck, We are at planning stage at the moment

Hi @Dreadnaught, Treated Floor area is 226 sqm over 2 floors with flatroof

Hi, As part of my PHPP calculations for my self build, The model indicates space heating demand of 15.1 kWh/m2a, peak heating load of 10.6 W/m2 and overheating of 1.4%. I am new to PHPP and don't understand the spreadsheet calculations, Can some one suggest what kind of heating enough for us (radiators, UFH)... any suggestions would be greatly helpful for me

Hi, We are looking for shading options for my new build. Can some one help me with pros and cons of below attached ides please. We are looking to reduce overheating in large south face glazing

This is my list of things in the slab. But I am yet start my build though... 1. hockey stick for mains. 2. water to plant room 3. gas to kitchen 4. grey telecom to hall 5. two svp in the walls for first floor( position checked) 6. downstairs toilet svp 7. plant room svp 8. kitchen island svp 9. kitchen island hot and cold supply(insulated) 10. kitchen Island power and one spare 25mm duct to island(you never know) 11. two 63mm to garage 12. two 63mm to house

yes @Mr Punter, my build is simple shapes House is Square and garage is also Square. I know lots of glazing on ground floor east and south, I can reduce glazing some how. I don't think any further changes can significantly reduce timber frame costs down. there is economies of scale. I am planning to buy shell house with wind and water tight stage, remaining most of the stuff doing it by myself. what sort of price per Square Meter we can expect wind and water tight stages please, any rough idea. If I reduce house by 1 meter down, does it really affect timber frame costs, I really don't understand their logic Yes it will cost £2000- £4000 only either I go down via contractor or Huf haus, but its definitely not my range

just a quick one " do we need to design for Brise soleil or External blinds now. Or can we leave it till after completion. yes, thinking of cable from roof to distribution board and so I can fit when budget permits got some quotes from TF companies, they are bit shocking. They were suggesting me to reduce house size to fit with in their budget but I am definitely don't want to reduce size based on their wishes Is there any way to build with in budget. currently thinking of ICF, timber frame or SIPS. I can do fair bit of work myself and being project manager

Thanks @Mr Punter regards to "Also make sure the floor design allows a maximum deflection of the lesser of 8mm or span x0.002", I cant understand this , is it something related to posi joists 2000mm overhang is too much ... I would be better of either Brise soleil or External blinds Thanks @ProDaveYes hot water tank goes into landing cupboards as its central to most points. Planning to install Gas boiler and MVHR in Utility room, hopefully I can make utility as sound proof. I don't think I can install it in Garage as its not frost free. just thinking of radiators in ground floor and towel rails in first floor instead of UFH Are these attached mvhr duct routes good enough, planning to use either semi rigid or steel via posi joists, please let me know if I missed anything