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Congratulations Joe! Hopefully the next part of the process will run more smoothly for you :-)

Our builder actually paid them and I paid the builder. Things are strained enough with the builder for a multitude of reasons and I wouldn't expect any help from them in this case. I might take a road trip up to the supplier for a face to face "chat" about where we go from here.

Today I had to chase a response to my email to the supplier from Monday, having been told I would receive a reply on Tuesday. What would you say to this: "sorry I have been away on other business, can you send the grill back in order to address your issues re standard of finish. I want to have the item repainted and welds etc examined, re the painting please bear in mind that this is a galvanised product, so I want to check re reaction to paint used etc. Re the mesh, it is correctly sized and is current as per Airflow design" I'm not sure the painted parts are actually galvanised, but even if they are, I don't think effectively saying "we/the fabricator painted something potentially unsuitable, so a reaction was possible/probable" inspires much confidence. I'll be contacting Airflow in the morning to see if they have guidelines or minimum standards for protecting the unit from ingress of insects/debris. The more I look at it though, the less convinced I become that it will even have the ability to prevent the exhaust air being drawn back in through the intake.

Not a dickie bird. Tried to negotiate for a while, but decided to just cut my losses as the time and energy it would probably have taken to pursue it were better spent on other things. Suffice to say I would not recommend doing business with Boulder Developments based on my experience.

I can say with absolute certainty that it is not powder coated and would hazard a guess that it's been sprayed with something like a tractor enamel or perhaps just an aerosol. For comparison in terms of hole sizing on the mesh, here is a photo of the standard cowl I was mistakenly sent the previous week: I would have serious concerns that just using the grille I was supplied would result in filters full of insects on the intake side. Given that the exhaust side has no louvres, I'd also be concerned about driving horizontal rain finding it's way up the duct and perhaps even into the MVHR unit which is less than 1m away from the tip of the vent.

I take some assurance that consensus is in line with my own opinion, but a conversation with the sales manager earlier suggests there may be resistance if (more likely when) I try to return it as it's a "custom order". I advised him that I shouldn't be expected to retain any old rubbish on those grounds and forward photos as he himself claims not to have seen it.

Over a year ago I ordered a custom twin exterior grille for our MVHR installation from a well known and highly regarded ventilation system supplier. It was to be baffled to segregate incoming and outgoing air streams as some off the shelf (but not large enough diameter for our needs) products also do. I was told that one was made, but the powder coat was mistakenly done black instead of white. I was told a replacement was made, but it was misplaced during a warehouse relocation. It was apparently later found, but could not be sent out as it had received scratches to the finish. I was told a third was made and ready to be shipped to me back in June. It would be sent out along with the ventilation unit*. My order was passed to a new point of contact who told me such a grille wouldn't work and I asked him to check with the managing director, as I was not only assured that it was possible (and knew this myself anyway), but that it was sitting there waiting to be despatched. The ventilation unit arrived, but a standard single stainless steel grille was with it. I phoned to ask where the custom grille was and was told the store man had sent the wrong box. I was then told the fabricator was being chased to have the grille finished ASAP. A few days later I phoned to ask when the grille would be ready and asked to speak to the MD. He said he "didn't really deal with that end of the business any more", but sent me a photo to prove the grille existed. On Friday I received this: Would you be happy with this, at a cost of just over £100 and having waited over a year for it? Any thoughts and comments welcome. * I will start a separate thread in relation to this shortly.

I know a guy who hires them out. No idea how far from home he takes them, but they start at £80 for three days. Try before you buy?! www.rubbahottub.com

Our screed came from CES and we had a fast drying agent added to the sand/cement/fibre mix. It only added another £2-3/m2 at a similar depth to your plan, but we were down to between 3.5-5% moisture content in two and a half weeks. Our builder used a liquid screed on their son's house and after almost 3 months it is still at 16% moisture content and cost nearly double what we paid. We've had zero condensation issues, although all of our casement windows and roof lights are left on the ventilation latch and we opened doors and windows during most days. Welcome back and good luck with the rest of the project!

The Calor rep told me that you can change to oil, electric, grid gas or biomass etc without penalty at any time and you can change LPG supplier after 2 years.

Our NI based build will be heated by a LPG combi boiler, feeding into an UVC, supplemented by the PV driven immersion heater. We are choosing LPG over oil for a few reasons: *Grid gas is due to pass our house in the next 2-5 years *Calor supply the tank and concrete base *They supply 1500 litres of LPG to new customers *The LPG boiler can be converted to natural gas cheaply *Gas boilers are quieter and odourless (ours will be in the house) *Gas boilers can modulate their output *You can leave Calor without penalty if you change fuel source (grid gas being acceptable) *Lower capital costs *Much lower likelihood of theft with gas My main reason for moving away from an ASHP was that it is most efficient in the summer when heating is needed less and PV will be producing most, and least efficient in the depths of winter when PV output will also be lower.

Who checks this?

Is that because you're doing it after the vat reclaim or just because of what they are in general (ie considered to be "furniture" rather than part of the build?

M**tifoil

It would appear to be the same company with whom I'm having issues over my ufh design.

I just checked out the website and can't believe who is selling it! Promise I had no idea prior to posting this topic!

Don't worry, screeders are booked and coming on Friday Fast dry screed should be well enough on in 3 weeks to let the painter in all being well.

Just flicking through Facepage and caught this ad for "the highest performance insulation product of any foil insulation in the UK and EU". Sounds like amazing stuff! ?

Brilliant cheers!

Half the battle is now done as the install was completed today and successfully tested to 6 bar, which just leaves the matter of some sort of recompense to hopefully be worked out with the supplier. I roughly worked out the layout in terms of zones (as defined by the room stats), areas covered by a length of pipe and estimated length of pipe required for each loop (either 85 or 100m based on the goods we received). Here is the "plan" I created: The plumber was then responsible for how he laid the pipes on the floor and not only managed to create a layout that places each flow and return adjacent to each other, but did so without one solitary pipe being crossed by another. We also kept all loops under 100m, therefore avoiding the need for any joints, have the correct pipe density in the hallways and included the pantry within one of the loops to the kitchen. I think our achievements make a total farce of the design I paid for and everything that was said in its defence by the supplier. Under stair manifolds in the hallway Two pipes detour out of the hallway before the pinch point at the far end In the Living Room and Formal Dining Area we managed to avoid the need for any pipes to cross The Kitchen is served by three circuits One of which also serves the Pantry at increased centres

@Kev106 that's very helpful to see, thank you. Do you know what distance the knob spindle is off the edge of the door? Are your privacy locks and main latch part of the same unit?

Thanks for all the replies guys! The longest tubular cylinders I've found place the centre of the spindle 102mm in from the edge of the door and the surface mounted locks place the spindle 108mm from the edge of the door. The longer "side" of the oval handles is 55mm, so it should be 77mm from the edge of the door and if the doorstop is ~20mm thick there should be more than 50mm of knuckle room. My darling wife has assured me most convincingly that we will under no circumstances be having lever handles. ?

Placing the order for our doors and ironmongery this week and a supplier has said they would not recommend the knobs we picked for the style of door we want (or in general). Here is the style of knob: Here is the style of door: They claim the issue is that there isn't enough room for your hand to avoid contact with the door stop and raised moulding on the door and the way to avoid the issue is to fit lever handles. Are there any other solutions or work arounds? I have seen tubular mortice latches that are longer - 76 or 102mm instead of 63mm. Any problem with using these mounted at the midrail height? We'd like to be able to lock the bedrooms to keep the prisoners in, but combined mortice locks appear to suffer from the above problem, so as an alternative I was looking at these: Any potential problems or drawbacks with this design? Finally, for the bathrooms we wanted to add these: Any problems with using these on 40mm internal doors? Cheers Michael

Having had difficulty in getting someone to answer the phones at the NI branch of Openreach New Sites, I contacted a couple of phone service providers to see if they could arrange the (physical) installation of a new line. I spoke to BT (only because I was connected by choosing a different option in the menu system after calling Openreach) and Pop, who seem to be connected to Money Supermarket and were showing the best deal for what I wanted on a comparison site. I would not choose to go with TalkTalk again because their customer services can be very frustrating to deal with and they are totally ineffective at stopping the numerous scam calls we receive in a day from people alleging to be calling from TalkTalk security. Anyway, BT said the new connection would cost £130, or £30 if we have BT supply broadband and Pop said it would cost £59.99 with them. In both cases I was asked for the house address and postcode and they could see that no line was currently registered (or had been). BT said it would take about 2 weeks and Pop said 2-4 weeks, within which they would arrange for an engineer to call within a 5 hour window (but couldn't say what the engineer would be doing lol). Neither advisor mentioned anything about a survey or cable etc which struck me as odd, but nor did they direct me to Openreach either (and the BT advisor knew I was speaking to him because I couldn't get through to Openreach). When I later did get talking to someone at Openreach, she said the survey is £96.11 and armoured cable is 78p/m or cable and duct is 78p/m. I received an email which only needs to be sent back to them to begin the process. Does anyone know if going directly to a service provider means I don't have to get involved with Openreach, or does their new connection fee only cover connecting to their network once the cable is already physically installed? They said billing will start within 10 days of the connection being made, so I'm trying to avoid paying line rental etc before we've moved in, but also trying to avoid paying Openreach if it is not necessary. Thanks in advance Michael

I received six 100m lengths and five 85m lengths, which means I also have eleven rolls for thirteen circuits.