Hughgo12

@Conor would also appreciate Kevin's detail. Looking at Krend alternatives

Hi - I was wondering if anyone could advise. Trying to figure out the best place for radiators. Any help appreciated!

Hi, I have a little bit of experience with this - based in the North but have dabbled in the South. There is a BCAR process in the south - which can be complicated enough. Your designer/architect has a responsibility to design to regs and will have forms to fill out along with there submission to say they have done. Managed on the BCMS. The builder has a responsibility to build in compliance with the regs and will also submit forms confirming so. Designer/Builder and owner all have responsibilities. Many architects/designers act as assigned certifiers and they also have a responsibility to ensure quality, all parties are performing and compliance. Before you start on site you will need a commencement notice. You may need your DAC, FSC, technical Drawings submitted to the local council before you get this, and an assigned certifier appointed.

Would that not bring the risk that moisture builds up, tracks along the DPM and up the wall?

One of the obstacles will be creating access to the balcony room, you will probably need an internal corridor in the existing bedroom

There are rules in place to stop people doing what they want and becoming a free for all. For example; looking at your photo it would seem that none of your neighbors have front fences, it would be common to see this on the deeds and planning in developments as there would be rules against erecting fences, parking on footpaths, leaving bins out, maintenance fees etc. But as always, some people have no regard for these and just do whatever they want

On site survey (is this mandatory? Every architect i've talked to has mentioned we need this) - No architect will do a design without a site survey to measure up to gain an understanding of the current construction, services, heights etc. But not a huge amount of work in this, they shouldnt relay on existing plans from others. Produce existing drawings - As above simple Proposed design drawings, 2D and 3D architectural drawings - would also bin the 3D unless there's no cost for them, but there normally is. 2D will have all the information required Planning management (i.e. they liaise with the local authority for you) - You could do this, sometimes playing dumb on the phone and simply asking works. Planning stage isnt rocket science Planning fee itself - Obviously needed Building reg drawings (or are these the same as the above drawings?) - These will be worked up from the planning drawing. Planning is basically a picture of what your getting but reg drawings are the instructions on how its built Structural engineer calculations (do i need these?) - Could do that without structural calcs but an architect will cover themselves. Building regulations (Local authority says £809 for extension of this size/ £551 for garage conversion, would I need both?) - Cant advice much on that. Most of the time architects fees include a few extras to make it look like your getting alot. Then the stuff you actually need is extra. That conversion looks simple enough to be honest . Although , looking at your front elevation things like the ramp and roof height should be looked at, the lintel above the garage door looks quite low with not much scope to increase. You'll need to check that your door meets the minimum height .

Nearly pulled the trigger on the Ancon's at £3 but realised i'll probably never build anything with a 50-75mm cavity

Not an expert by any means. Had a project recently and the engineer asked for 3 window sampling boreholes which would give enough detail on the things you list for the engineer to design the slab. Reach out to a few geotech companies. Before committing make sure to go back the company for your raft to confirm the ground investigations that they will be providing are sufficient and that they can decipher the results.

In this case it sounds like the tree. A 250 year old oak will have a very wide and significant route system which will draw alot of water. I do feel your pain as I'm sure its impressive and you'll be sorry to see it go.

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Originally it probably would have been whatever was dug up locally. Lime mortar is supposed to be sacrificial and compressible strength properties are not that important, unlike cement mortar which is desired for its compressible strength and hard wearing ability.

Worth getting a structural engineer to look at. Without seeing the rest of the house and surrounding site it looks like thermal movement. Often seen on return walls, long panels and at corners. The extension probably has contributed to this as it will have thermal movement which differs from the house brick. I would monitor in the short term. It is unlikely to get worse.

Few snips from drawings - standard regurgitated spec but can be useful

The drimaster type mechanical ventilation type install will help address human comfort and condensation. But from a building fabric point of view it does sound like there's a few things to address which would contribute to living conditions and the ventilating the structure. Without raising the roof, 50mm airgap, 50mm PIR, Insulated PB, eaves ventilation, ridge ventilation, in-line slate ventilators and membrane. Most of the insulation manufactures will run a condensation risk analysis for you.