torre

Yes exactly

Biggest difference I see is the magic elves (well, the big fan anyway) tirelessly directing their sealant into the worst leaks in any hard to reach spaces you've missed and can't easaily get back to. I hope not to need the product but I'll probably have a pre-plasterboard blower test and then assess. If I'd known this I might have gone straight to them and saved doing a parge coat!

If building under permitted development you'll still need to apply for tree works permission if protected trees may be affected

Obviously there's positive internal pressure when installing the magic gunk, but do they do any final test with negative pressure? Would love to see pics, for larger holes I can see the stuff will gradually build up, but it's not clear to me that the seal would necessarily be as effective when the pressure is reversed. I assume they charge more according to how long and how much they blow, so sensible airtight measures are still worthwhile first

I agree, but if you thought 19 objections last time was a lot, this will probably stir up more and open up other possible grounds for refusal (not in keeping with the area)

On the face if it, no - "tucked away around the corner of a quiet cul de sac" sounds more appropriate, but if your street is the main walking route used by people to visit the park or whatever at the top of your aerial view then yes it would be prominent and a large house there might seem overbearing.

So you didn't directly address the first reason for refusal and made only a minor change to somewhat address the second? It sounds like you had misgivings about the consultant's approach and maybe should have trusted your instincts - what did they submit that was likely to change the decision? Because on the face of it, the planners were almost bound to refuse again. If the consultant addressed this up front and suggested you'd need to go to appeal to keep the original design then your course is surely set that way, but otherwise they so far haven't demonstrated much understanding of the local planners or how to address the reasons for refusal and I'd be tempted to scale down a bit in a fresh application as it'll be quicker and lower risk. E.g. Make the garage into a smaller extra room but with the width reduced a bit and set back to still allow parking by the tree, look to utilise the loft space, perhaps accept going to 3 bed. You may help retain the value of the original property too by making it's new neighbour less overbearing.

My non-expert impression, it's likely that pitched roof was extended such that you'll have the original joists spanning to and supported on the yellow and the extension joists spanning yellow to red and supported by both, rather than any being full span, so both will be load bearing. (The lack of moss/lichen on that part of the roof suggests the tiles are newer/different) Exploring the loft is a good suggestion. Is there any planning permission record online for the property? That might give a better idea of the changes. Someone's already spent a fair bit of money on a not very practical extension, so be wary of making the same mistake. If it ends up looking expensive to remove the yellow wall, I'd start looking at what you might do long term - if for example you may want to build out across the whole rear of the property, maybe think about that now as you'll end up reworking things and paying for structural changes again.

Sorry maybe this is clearer re the vent I do think your last detail is a decent compromise in terms of the look you want and being constructable. Probably quite a bit wider though to avoid overshooting

Looks like you could vent below your drip into the gutter as the equivalent to over fascia vent if you had a simple gutter fixed outside

This is obviously no good, but can at least be checked/adjusted out of the box and returned if necessary. In my (limited) experience though the quality of say a bevel cut is more about a sharp blade and securing material so it doesn't pull the blade. Certainly no argument about noise levels though!

The overrun charges for streetworks charges can be £1000s per day for a busy road and £100s otherwise, if it's your licence then you don't want to be delayed by another company's unfinished work. Sewer connection was our most expensive - deepest run, more risk of striking other utilities, fewer companies that will take on the work. With a great deal of perseverance on our side and really helpful utilities workers on the ground we also managed to get water and electric connected under the same licence but if either had missed their install date that trench was getting filled in regardless! Over 10k total but probably saved 2K+ versus separate digs. It was touch and go whether we'd get the electrics done though - their guidelines wanted a wider trench but the people on the ground made it work.

It's so frustrating when a power lead can't even reach floor to ceiling - I've a staple gun from Screwfix and it's only usable with an extension cord fixed to your waist. When it comes to a mitre saw, I'd rather have a cheap sliding and double bevel saw over a mid range brand without those features

So you basically want something thing that signals "I'm still cold up here, keep the boiler on!"? A smart thermostat with a smart TRV on that radiator should do that. Not sure it's much cheaper to install or run than a bigger radiator though

I've only used tado but think they all work the same way. The main thermostat replaces your existing and it's this that calls for heat from the boiler on a configured schedule and temperature. Then an extra TRV or sensor can be installed in any room that you want to be able to control separately - kept warm or cold according to it's own temperature schedule. The TRV signals the main thermostat to call for heat, heat still pumps around the whole system though, through any radiator with an open TRV whether that's a smart or a dumb one. As others have said, at the extremes this can be quite inefficient, but if you've a couple of rooms and know one will be empty while the other is used, you can avoid heating the other, while the rest of the house is somewhere between. Say you want your office warm in the day and your lounge warm in the evening.