torre

Starting with which way up you fill the cone!

Have you checked they're using the same delta T when quoting output? Any radiator can produce much higher output at a higher flow temperature, but like you, I'd be suspicious of one performing so much better than another of very similar design.

Absolutely! @snowyshoes do you know how and where your roof membrane finishes? We also have over fascia ventilation but installed it with an eaves tray like this one, which as you'll see on that page fits under the roof membrane and over the fascia vent, finishing comfortably below the vent and lower than the gutter edge giving a lot of extra protection. That's probably difficult to retrofit securely and correctly, without taking the tiles off but would be a big improvement. Or tiles (slate) overhung more and our gutter was higher too, if you extend the line of the roof you want the outside gutter edge to be a bit higher to maximise catching heavy rain or about the same to avoid the risk that a lot of sliding snow weight might pull your gutter off.

Something part threaded like these will drive in without a pilot hole and pull tight.

Not a tiler but we have successfully used the 10mm cement faced foam boards screwed to the floorboards with plenty of the large backer board washers, then a flexible tile adhesive and flexible grout. This was recommended to us on the basis there'll be a bit of movement with any timber floor, so better to allow for it - my concern with the cement boards is they may be more stable across the board itself, but that means any movement is focused more at the joints between boards. If you're having electric UFH and it'll only be on for short periods then I agree the insulation is a plus.

Is manifold noise likely to be noticeable through a block wall? (Thinking about my own locations now!)

Unless you need fire protection I'd be tempted to take a couple of mm off the back of the board where it would contact each hanger.

A planning consultant's not going to get into the detail of a demolition notice, so I can only really interpret this as the consultant will include a statement arguing why it's reasonable to knock down the existing property as part of their service. Maybe it's a bit of fee justification/inflation? I'd ask what's included and why it's needed? Unless there's something special about the existing property (listed but beyond repair, locally significant features, conservation area etc) then I don't think it will represent a significant piece of work, but something more akin to it having little architectural merit, poor repair, expensive to run and maintain, doesn't enhance the neighbourhood compared with your new proposal etc

The vertical overlap looks okay to me, to allow for expansion. Was that lead fresh off a roll? The white staining can be cleaned off as mentioned and patination oil applied but I'd expect the roofers to have done this as part of the job

Is your existing supply single or three phase? If the latter then I think suppliers will allow separate meters on each phase (I think it's come up on this forum before)

Another vote for epoxy glue if you have the other piece intact as it'll save loads of effort. I think you may find it hard to align into position as tightly once you've put a dowel in though

We visited their showrooms a while back, they have loads of kitchens on display and (as a bonus) offer free hot and soft drinks. Their online planner is better than most too. Howdens had no problem with us opening an account as self builders, Magnet let us open a trade account too

I'd echo this, decisions made in haste often turn into ones you regret later. Sometimes you have to start a bit slower to be better prepared and be able to go faster later. I don't think you're losing that much with delaying now. We made an autumn start 1/ to avoid our PP lapsing and 2/ to finally make the project 'real' and with hindsight, once we had the foundations poured last winter should probably have parked things - building brick & block we spent so many days making right and wrong calls on whether to work due to weather, and it being pretty cold and miserable even on 'good' days. I'd anticipated something like when they work on the roof in Shawshank Redemption - cold beer in the sun - but the reality was scraping snow off a scaffold and running around with tarpaulins in sudden storms.

A good point that we sometimes lose track of. Heat loss calcs etc are great for working out the 'need', but the 'want' is just as important, so for us (wet) upstairs ufh is both about avoiding cold floors and avoiding any rad/fan coil fixtures on the walls

I think it's good to have something between the screw and the pan that will break or deform before the porcelain will crack and also to spread the stress over a bigger area than the screw edge touching the pan. Pan fixing kits may have a plastic washer with a cap but a rubber washer with a blob of silicone would do