torre

Sorry you're having trouble. I'm very anti PIV in older houses. The idea is you're replacing the moist inside air with drier air from outside, but how is all that moisture supposed to get out? Sure some via trickle vents, but in an older draughty house a lot will be pushed out through the structure via lots of little gaps cracks and holes, so your pushing moisture into the fabric of the home. I much prefer dMEV - continuous extract ventilation. You're still replacing moist air with drier air, but now you are drawing all the moist air out through the extract ventilation, and the drier air in through those little gaps etc in the fabric of the home, so pulling moisture out of the home. These also have humidity sensors so they will automatically boost when you're creating more moisture through cooking, drying washing etc. Cheaper to install than the damp specialist's solutions too. Breathable plaster, paint, insulation, render are all important too and we've done that on a renovation too but it's expensive to take on, so I'd start with reasonably low cost options like dMEV and also turn the heating up a bit and see if things start to improve.

You've not mentioned why you're considering this route? I looked briefly at it as it seemed seductively easy to get a roof on but building in masonry, very tight tolerances so little adjustability and most importantly cost weighed against it (seemed a huge gap between the cost of the panels and a whole roof even supply only). I was surprised to learn it's still classed as a cold roof and so needs ventilation above meaning you need counter battens above for example so the build up isn't quite as thin as you'd think either.

Try units and appliances on only the window wall and the 1340 wall opposite so they're left and right as you walk in. Then maybe on the facing wall you can have something that folds out. Fridge, sink, WM on window wall. Cupboards either side of cooker on 1340 wall. All with cupboards above

(Unfortunately your pre-app advice has probably reduced the sale value somewhat) Seek permission for a solar farm maybe, including a couple of outbuildings?

If you don't want to play the long game you could put it on the market as possibly suitable for equestrian use etc and include an overage clause in any sale (be up front about that). You're likely to get at least some interest from self builders and local developers, who may be more willing to take a punt on an expensive push for planning than you are. If you sell, you save yourself the maintenance and realise some value now, with the possibility of a future windfall in future. Downside is losing control of what happens to this land you're next door to. Maybe it'll be left to go wild, maybe it's future development will spoil your enjoyment of your own home.

I see where you're coming from but the strips can't be even slightly wide or they'll compromise tightly fitting the PIR which is difficult enough anyway. Then if they're a bit narrow any gaps will mean they're not doing much. Thermally, 75mm between then 25mm insulated plasterboard over would better reduce bridging and also mitigate any gaps where you've not fitted the PIR tightly between studs. If you do go the strips route I see there's a Jackodur board that's rigid XPS without the tilable face (that you don't need)

Your neighbour's already given you a shopping list of changes the planners requested last time (to the original application) so they'll surely be raised by those same planners again (you might want to redact the neighbour's name here by the way). Definitely get your planning consultant or architect to attend as they're likely to be able to give much more policy driven 'clarification' as needed (read up on the protocol of site visits) Fortunately (for you and your future home) you're in an AONB, but unfortunately in planning terms there's more outstanding natural beauty without another house in it, unless of course it'll be your own! So you need to show how your design is exceptional (a very high bar) or do all you can to minimise harm. (You could for example suggest limited removal of permitted development rights to address concerns like building over the garage in future)

You've a challenge ahead building in this weather. As others have said make sure all fresh brickwork is well covered, you'll want to try and keep the cavity covered too so your insulation isn't drenched. We've used cheap tarpaulins for this and it's a battle keeping things in place with high winds. Also, make sure your bricks are covered on site so they're dryer when laid or that water is eventually going to push a lot of salts out of the bricks. I'm a bit sceptical of winter mix additive, be cautious of your builder pushing to work in too low temperatures. If local sites around you aren't laying, you probably shouldn't be either

Have you ruled out insulating below your existing timber floor? You'll be able to fit far more insulation. It sounds like you're already raising your existing floor level a fair bit with both ply and 10mm flooring and something in between, is that going to cause problems elsewhere? Including the 25mm insulation you linked would mean losing overall best part of 50mm headroom throughout, including all the doorways and make your bottom/top stair a tripping hazard due to uniform height. On a positive note those dense foam underlays like sonic gold are very stable and do a great job of deadening sound (have used under a floating floor before now)

Agree with fixing into the rafter tails, somewhere up by your scaffold board in second pic. Looks like you could use something like Brett Martin BR043Cl and screw into the end grain

Soudal plasterboard foam adhesive can be compressed pretty tight to blockwork, but aren't you only going to save the depth of a dab, say about 10mm per wall like this? If your blockwork isn't perfectly flat maybe not even that much. (It does stick well though and goes a long way)

@Russell griffiths I was literally typing cavity tray when I saw your reply. @BallyT you should be able to see weep holes all along the lead flashing over your upstand. Is your upstand insulated? Presumably you've some firrings to add a reasonable slope to this flat roof as well

It's tough making decisions with the clock ticking! You'll be spending a lot of money on both the refit and the boiler though so if you're very undecided pushing back the install at a stage where you're not letting the plumber down last minute may make sense. If pushed, I think boiler backing onto the long wall looks a bit more flexible, narrows the room less. Is there any scope for moving the doorway? If it was more central on that wall you could put the boiler cupboard top left behind the swing of the door. (You might have to squeeze past it if the boiler has to be installed before the door can be moved!)

How about building some integrated storage along the wall below the window and hiding the pipes in that?

Where does your boiler condensate drain to? It's a lot more water but maybe about to drain there? Perhaps another option is shower where the bath is now and have a free standing bath beside it, longways facing the window Alternatively, based on your last pic, you could think about having the sink between the bath and toilet, all the drainage is on one wall