machtucker

Hi Alan. Yes that's my take on it too. I do keep flip flopping between each option however I think I will concrete the post into the ground. I think the fact that there will be quite a large surface area from the panels the forces could be quite strong and with the small brackets mentioned by @Temp the bending moment will be quite large at the bottom Although I'm in quite a sheltered part of Hampshire we can still get some stiff winds blowing through. So the question is whether it's worth treating the bottom portion of the post or just concrete as is?

Hi Alan, Yes that is what I'd like to do but I'm worried about the side loads being to strong for the fixing between the post and the padstone. What do you reckon? Do you think a fixing like temp has linked would be strong enough? I suspect it will given the L shape

These look great. I'm tempted to go down the concrete foundation with post on top method. No one has told me categorically that I shouldn't do that yet.

So the timber is arriving next week and I've been thinking about how I'm going to secure the posts in the ground again. There seems to be a lot of conflicting information on the net. Ideally I would build a concrete foundation and put the oak posts on top of that so they are well out of the way of the soil however due to the design I don't think it will be strong enough. It is not a traditional pergola an is more of a L shaped bit of screening/fencing so there may well be significant side loads. Therefore I have come to the conclusion that I will concrete about 600mm of the post into the ground with a footing about 400 x 400mm square. The posts are 150mm wide. I obviously want the timber to last as long as possible so have been researching the best way of minimising chances of rot. I will use gravel in the bottom of the foundation hole which will allow water to drain and will also be useful to get the post to the correct height etc. What about sealing/treating the bottom of the post? I have seen guidance that says do and also some that says don't as it can keep water in? Any advice? Cheers, Ed

And then plug the bottom with an oak dowel of some form?

So for fixing 2 to 3 are you suggesting something like this where I drill a hole then a deep counter sink? Then I could use a stainless steel screw 75mm long.

Well I’ve bought the Oak. Went for European green oak. Still not sure about painting. We might leave it be for a year or two so it can dry out etc then see what we think. Although my wife might have other ideas.

Sloping is possible. Maybe I can set up my circular saw with a fence to do it. How crucial would you say sloping is? The upright posts is fairly straight forward. Also joining the decorative rafters is not as straight forward as screwing 3 into 1 as the rafters are also between posts so I will have to screw 3 into 2 somehow. What about pocket screws at an angle?

Cheers, I will give that a go.

Morning, I have laid a patio with an Aco channel drain at one end. The slabs next to the drain have about 5mm gap and are about 5mm higher than the side of the drain. I have Sika Fastfix jointing compound to joint the patio. What is the best way to joint the drain gap? Obviously it needs to be filled properly so the water runs into it. Should I just work in the fastfix or use mortar? I have a mortar gun which I guess will make filling it easier. Any recommendations would be good. Thanks Ed

Yes I’m an avid follower of Robin and did see his Oak work. Looked lovely. Would be nice to do something like that but time is not my friend at the moment. Interested to how I could achieve something similar to what I’ve got with dowels alone?

Nice ideas. I especially like the recessed screws with dowels. I will have to move the position of 3) as at the moment it is situated directly above 1). Also sloping 1 is a good idea.

Hi, I've bought some Eurpoean green oak timber and am now thinking about the best way to fix the crossbeams (2) to the 150 x 150mm posts (1). The decorative rafters (3) on top will also need fixing. I know normal screws/bolts will rust so I should use stainless steel. Given the assembly I don't think dowels are an option. Any ideas or recommendations? Many thanks, Ed

Seeing as we are going to paint the Oak I'm now wondering whether we need oak or whether we could use a treated softwood. I kind of like the durability of it but maybe it's an overkill, what do you think?

woops. I meant 2.4m

Hi, I need to source 150mm x150mm x 3m Oak posts for a pergola/screen structure. I also need 150mm x 50mm x 24m oak beams. Can anyone recommend a supplier? I've found a few but there are a fair distance from me and charge £180 for delivery. I'm in Fleet, Hampshire. Many thanks, Ed

I think I've found the answer to my own question in the Government Permitted development rights for householders guide https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/830643/190910_Tech_Guide_for_publishing.pdf . This is the document that the planning portals refers to. My structure will be within 2m of the boundary so I think I'm limited to 2.5m max height..... "Class E – buildings etc E.1 Development is not permitted by Class E if – (e) the height of the building, enclosure or container would exceed - (i) 4 metres in the case of a building with a dual-pitched roof, (ii) 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within 2 metres of the boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse, or (iii) 3 metres in any other case The height of the building, enclosure or container should be measured from the highest ground level immediately adjacent to the building, enclosure, or container to its highest point. The height limit on a ‘dual-pitched roof’ of 4 metres should also be applied to buildings that have ‘hipped’ roofs (slopes on all four sides). If any part of the building, container or enclosure is within 2 metres of the boundary of the curtilage of the house, then the height limit for the total development is restricted to 2.5 metres if it is to be permitted development."

Hi, I now have a design for the screen structure (see image below) that I want to build in the corner of the garden. I've been trying to find the planning rules for this type of structure but cannot find any. Can someone point me in the right direction please? I have found lots of different bits of info regarding max height etc but nothing definitive from planning portal website. If someone could provide a link to the definitive info that would be great. Many thanks, Ed

Thanks everyone. Appreciate your input. Someone on another forum suggested a sail idea,which I quite liked. I’d be able to put/take down when I wanted then. I’m considering using some pretty sturdy 150mm square posts so securing is pretty key. I understand that installing on top of a concrete footing would be great for replacement and longevity but wouldn’t digging a hole placing a post on a plinth or gravel and filling with concrete, making sure the concrete finishes above soil level be stronger and also rot resistant? Essentially the same concrete foundation but the post is held in the concrete rather than on top. Basically like a fence post. I’m just thinking that sitting a hefty post on top wouldn’t be strong enough.

Thanks. Yes I thought so. It’s not a problem I can dig holes and build up a foundation on the patio. I haven’t started to lay anything yet only the Type 1. If going into the soil would you build a concrete foundation and bolt the the uprights on top or just dig a hole put the posts in the hole then add postcrete? I’m guess the first option might be better on post wear?

Hi everyone, I’m mulling over pergola design for our garden. Still haven’t decided exactly what we want but one design is basically an L shape around the patio area. I was going to secure the posts into the soil with postcrete, like a fence post. Then we’ll be able to plant climbers that climb up the pergola (see photo) However, I’m now thinking a more convention pergola might also be good as it will provide more shade - square, 4 uprights type thing. With this there is potential to secure to the patio. I haven’t actually laid any slabs yet and if we do go down this route I’m guessing digging out where the posts will go and filling with concrete will provide the best foundation for the posts. Or is securing to the patio OK too? Any recommendations would be good. Is there a good guide on the internet. Something similar to pavingexpert? Many thanks, Ed

Thanks for the comments everyone. It was mainly to stop weeds but I hear what you’re saying jfb, the mortar and slabs should do that. Being a complete newbie I was just going by advice I read on the pavingexpert website. Anyway, I’ve put the fabric down and knocked some pegs in. Off to San Diego tomorrow but I’ll put the MOT type 1 down when I get back. Only taken me 3 years to get to this point. 😂 my wife loves me. 😂

It’s not holding it in place which is the problem it’s that I want to hammer legs into the soil to show me what level to apply sub base to.

why so?

Hi everyone, I’m going to be laying sub base for the patio soon and have woven geotextile fabric to put down beneath it. Ideally I’d like to knock in some pegs at the required sub base height at various points to help me gauge levelling etc but that will mean the fabric will have holes in it. Is this OK? Any thoughts/guidance appreciated. cheers, Ed