janedevon

So please explain to me like im 6 lol, do,i have a unit in the loft space then trunking to all rooms specified on my plan, like bathroom utility etc ? Or does each required room need an air flow in and out? Im just thinking of how many vents are going to be needed on my outer skin?, roof and block work started today so i kind of need to get a plan into action

Guys just jumping in here rather than start another thread, is a mvhr unit a requirement? Om my plans my vent spec are, allow for heat recovery extract fans to bathrooms shower room cloakroom and utility plus extractor in kitchen, i was,under the impression we would use single units in required rooms but it seems a system is better? And expensive by the looks of things, so,would a unit just connect to the various rooms that needed ventilation as listed above? Ill need to get this sorted asap as roofers start today more expense lol

They say a picture paints a thousand words

Me again, with more probably simple questions, so we have sorted my plan for the warm roof living space as discussed esrlier in the thread, the timber frame guys have left today, and the main house roof has been sarked, the rest of the house, cold roof hasnt been sarked and oddly on my plan there doesnt seem to be specific insulation specified, so as far as i see it i will counter batten the sarking to leave an air gap then felt and batten and tile and insulate with my 2 layers of 90mm earthwool, then im using 50mm of pir under rafters. As the rest of the roof has no living space in it and no sarking does that negate the need for counterbattens? And what is standard roof insulation in a cold roof? 2x150 mm rock wool? Or something more substantial. feel free to correct me if im wrong im here to learn. thanks

Does not putting the stove in alter any target values? If i dont put one in just wondering if i will regret it when i suggested it to the architect he just said its a nice thing to have in a new house. Im quite happy not to have a stove, excess cost and also messy just dont want to go,against any bregs. Also want to ensure new house is warm enough with out the stove!!!

Plus one for me thanks for the input tbh while i like a log burner, we currently have one and an open fire its probably not going to be needed in the new build and we may get away with an electric style fake fire especially judging on hearing people install them and then not use them. but obviously its a decision to be made now before i flood the floor with concrete!!

Hi on our timberframe we have a small woodburner planned in the open plan lounge dining room the plan shows an air supply from an external wall to the stove this has to go through the srudy does this generally run under floor or can it be under the beams of celing, just trying to get the idea in my head of whats required prior to arranging floor finish.

Many thanks, with regards to the edging near walls is there a specific product that is used around the edges of all perimiter walls ? And i presume this cant be too high as it will effect the level of concrete poured over it?

Yes im looking at 100 mm celotex then ufh it has been suggested to me to put a layer of polythene over celotex prior to clipping in ufh pipes, this would help as well as your hoovering idea. Is structural slab a reinforced slab? im pretty clueless and learning as i go but i certainly like the look of the finished product.

Sounds like it would be polished, i have asked for more details they seem to look effective just have to see if its an option. http://exeterfloorrestoration.com/concrete-installations-for-polished-concrete/

Just had a ball park figure for 100m2 of laying and polishing concrete, £8500 doesnt sound too bad considering id need 75mm of screed then the cost of tiles and planned bamboo etc soon adds up. this figure was based on 100mm of concrete then £73 per m2 to float polish and seal, what are thoughts on this depth of concrete over ufh? I know its well above minimum but would it be too much?

I Thought the polished concrete may have been a cost saving but am surprised at the price of it goont to try a local firm mear Exeter tomorrow for prices.

So any updates? Im following with interest as this is something id consider doing if price is reasonable.

I just appreciate the impartial advice from here, id be stuck without it first build a lot to,learn and its great to hear peoples opinions, i dont get to worried hard sell just makes me more determined to get as much info as i can prior to making a decision everyones opinion here is valuable, lifes too short for arguments and stress god knows we all have enough of that if we are in the self build game. thanks guys i hope you look forward to my next questions!!!!

Yes just checking that that is he best plan and is that satisfactory will only be thin screed over thresholds

Dolly block is 150 so void below soleplate is that depth ffl will be 100 celotex then 75 screed then laminate 14mm so 189 from block and beam taking ffl,to just over soleplate level

Time for this weeks numpty question thanks in advance for having patience to read and help, so timber frame is nearly up, got a guy coming to survey for windows and doors early next week he asked if openings were all ready to be meausured i said yes however we are not at finished floor level yet im not planning that for a few weeks will this matter if i explain where ff will be? part 2 of question is regarding the soleplate cutting out at doorways, i have dolly block 150mm high then dpc lapped over topped with 38mm soleplate then another 38mm timber, my floor build up will be dpc/ radon barrier then 100mm celotex with ufh topped with 75mm screed then i plan on bamboo floor / tiles in kitchen and utility, so my question is as doorways and entrances do i cut away top timber and sole plate so the screed goes over the dpc/dolly to leave room for my finished floor ? And if so is it enough to inform the window guy that ffl will be where x marks the spot? hope this makes sense thanks

This one from builders merchants 1 10150CTB325:4 25MM 2400X1200MM PIR INSULATION 52 each 8.33 433.16 2 FRE TB4025 (16SHTS/PK - 6PKS/LIFT) 3 10150CGA3050:4 50MM 2400X1200MM PIR INSULATION 1 each 11.78 11.78 4 FRE GA4050 (8SHTS/PK 6PKS/LIFT) 5 10150CGA3100:4 100MM 2400X1200MM PIR INSULATION 42 each 23.29 978.18 6 FRE GA4100 (12SHTS/PK 2PKS/LIFT) 7 NS1:4 ISOVER TIMBER FRAME BATT 35 640 EACH 2.34 1497.60 8 FRE 90x1175x570mm (10/PK 16PK / PALLET) 9 FRE ISOVER IN FULL PALLET QUANTS ONLY 10 NS1:4 ISOVER FRAME ROLL 40 508.2 M2 1.93 980.83 11 FRE 90mm X 2/570 X 10.13M 44PKS 12 NS1:4 ISOVER TIMBERFRAME BATT 40 560 EACH 1.91 1069.60 13 FRE 90x570x1175mm 14/PK 20PK/PALLET

Many thanks im appreciating your help!!!

This apparently is minster part of jewsons no account just an email enquiry im currently trying Tinhay here, TP i havent bothered with as so expensive on other items, im liking your plan of the frametherm 40 with the excess used to do the internal walls and maybe go 50mm celotex under rafters.

Welcome Devon here too and ive never heard of a planning department being as slow as this. comgrats

First reply Apologies I thought that Actis would be a good alternative to reach U Values. Unfortunately we do not stock the Knauf insulation but we do have an alternative in isover. Isover 90mm Frame Batt 35 – 6.70m2 per pack - £5.77m2 Recticel 30MM PIR- £10.30 per sheet Recticel 100mm - £25.00 per sheet Please do let me know if you have any further questions.

Thanks for all the advice i will try different suppliers in the morning, if the actis does as it says then by the time i add in some breather membrane, theres not actually a huge difference in price on first look, i take it that with the hybrid system the internal celotex or equivalent is not needed, obviously at daves price there is a difference however wether i can match that anywhere remains to be seen, maybe ill have to get you to order it for me dave

Basically the 2 firms i asked for a quote forwarded my info to an ACTIS rep who provided them with the information, identical rather than quote me for my requested products, i guess its hard sell in this area as a couple of builders i chatted to are both installing the same product on a couple of projects nearby. Now i have the actis rep,offering to come for a site visit!!!

For a 150m2 roof coverage, the following quantities will be required: Boost’R Hybrid x 15 rolls £ 56.00 roll 150mm Hybris x 40 rolls (3.84m2 p/roll) £35.25 roll Mulitdhesif Tape to seal joins of the Boost’R x 5 rolls (1 roll of tape to every 3 rolls of Boost’R or HControl) £5.99 roll 90mm Hybris could also be used instead of the 90mm wool batts in the partition walls. £31.00 roll