sharpener

Once the TS is up to temp it doesn't take much. My 210 l TS has a rated heat loss of 1.9kWh per 24h. Somewhat less in practice (maybe the rated loss is at 60C but in summer I have it at 45). So with a CoP of 3 that is about 10p a day at cheap rate. This wasn't the original plan but at that cost it is not worth trying to change it. Given the above I don't think you could justify the capital cost of doing that.

Gledhill have reportedly had quality probs with leaking fittings and loose/rattly internals. OSO have a good reputation (and make Vaillant cyls under contract). Mine dates from 1995 and has needed only a replacement pressure reduction cartridge since then. The HP installers re-used it, as changing it out was going to involve substantial building work. Ideal are rebadged cyls made by another major mfr (I forget who) but are actually cheaper to buy from Ideal. IIRC the recommended size is 45 l x (# of bedrooms + 1). This is designed to give you 1 shower p/p. Should be plenty as with an HP you can reheat cheaply several times a day (depending on tariff e.g. 3 x with Octopus Cosy).

There are several seemingly decent schemes like this. One in Hants ?Andover IIRC. Also Cool Energy will design under MCS and supply for yr ppl to fit.

We started with 7.1 kWh of battery and quickly added another module which I had allowed for so now have 10.65 kWh In an ideal world I would add a fourth module but that would mean moving the consumer unit so cba. Cosy suits us well bc the 1300 - 1600 cheap slot allows the HP to precharge the thermal store at the same time as the inverter charges the battery, all ready for the evening meal and keeping the CH going through the evening peak rate. With yr enormous slab @JohnMo you will probably do entirely without the HP during the peaks. I decided not to go for the Octopus Go etc EV tariff bc you need to play continual games to optimise the behaviour for the HP. Cosy is fit and forget. All I have to do is change the settings when I am away so the house can run from the battery during the allowable charging times, when the house is occupied this is not desirable as it cycles the batteries too deeply (simple explanation but not entirely correct).

Yes there was an intermittent feed that sprayed cold water into the air circuit. Brought the circulating air down to the temp of the cold water inlet but also ensured it was 100% saturated. Next to useless, worst machine I ever owned.

Ironically we discovered an acquifer only 1.2m down and right under our new rainwater tank location. So they had to bring in a dewatering pump - but the flat outlet hose kinks easily and I was up in the night sorting it out so the tank didn't float out of position before they backfilled the hole.

Even after the capital cost of having the borehole drilled and the treatment plant installed you need to factor in the recurring cost of replacement filters, UV lamps, chemicals and periodic water quality checks none of which you need with mains water.

For a friend they didn't remove the blanking plug in the connection to the sink waste so the machine threw an error code and didn't work. Can't see the point of paying £25 for someone to connect 2 pipes and plug the thing in. If there is anything out of the ordinary they won't do it anyway. IIRC hot and cold fill washing machines only draw from the hot on the high temperature programmes so you will not save anything on everyday washes.

Fit a solenoid valve then you can control it by a conventional time switch or over the internet by a Shelly plug.

Don't know about Panasonic specifically, but in general it would seem you pay a lot for the convenience of having these components packaged in a glossy white unit to sit alongside your kitchen cupboards like a boiler.

R290 is propane but the quantity is relatively small (960g) so even if it is inside the house (not clear from a quick read) the danger will be much less than an unlimited supply of natural gas. The compressor will be in the outdoor unit either way so not a problem.

Will make it worse. The cutaway view here shows the main active component is a standard plate HX, and from the description is it clear this is used to provide separation between the HP loop and a pre-existing heating system. Assuming there is the typical dT of 5 C between primary and secondary of the HX it means the HP will have to run 5C hotter for the same heat delivered to the home. It will not reduce the need for larger emitters in many instances, in fact it will make this more of a requirement to get reasonable CoPs. Their video is misleading about this. I don't see why they are targeting social housing in particular, or emphasise the saving on glycol. Anti-freeze valves are a readily available alternative. The remote controllable backup heater is novel but I can't see what form it takes. It does not seem to have a standard immersion heater boss, and if more than 3kW will need a new power supply to the airing cupboard. As it is designed to fit under the HW cylinder it would not appear to avoid the need for a new cyl. I would not have one.

Because the 12kW outdoor unit is more than 0.6 cu m we needed full PP. Our site backs on to a river in an AONB so visual impact is important. As well as the specified plans I included (i) a photograph of the house from the river demonstrating that the HP would be out of sight and also (ii) a photomontage showing that it could not easily be seen from the street either bc the level of the kitchen yard is about 5 ft below the surface of the road. The only objection was a technical one about my home-produced plans which was fixed by paying ~£20 for online ones. I would think so. Good luck!

Nothing about height, this is the full extent of the MIs on the subject: I suppose the accessibility guidance would be the same as a light switch but I do not have my IEE On-site Guide to hand. More important is to site it in a sensible room. Hallway is not always a good choice, it may be draughty or unrepresentative of the rooms you are actually trying to heat. There is an offset adjustment which may help circumvent this. If like me you are not using it to sense room temp and just rely on the WC then it may be more convenient to put it with all the other controls in the plant room. Often I have seen pix where it has been installed in the airing cupboard where it is neither use nor ornament.

The key point here is that the turn-down ratio of a heat pump is usually about 3:1. So the 6kW unit would happily run continuously at 2kW output. Hence on the face of it the 9kW would not be too bad, at 3kW. But if as @JamesPa says it is a 16kW unit derated by software then the min output is going to be over 5kW which is 2 1/2 times what you should have had. So it is going to spend most of its life cycling severly which is poor for efficiency and also poor for the compressor lifetime. I think you might usefully consider a Small Claims Court case for "not fit for purpose", the threat of this might miraculously cause a 6kW unit to be found!