andyj007

If anyones interested : some real life data today, I heated my 300l DHw that was down to 22degres to 54.7deg in 90 mins , The energy delivered to the heat pump was 2.6kw . total , with peak draw hitting 2.5kw twice during the 90min session. . outside temp was 11-12 degrees .. currently I have x2 3.5 batteries and both were charged to 100% before I switched on the HP.. it was bright with cloudy / sun today, and the 7.2kw panels (west facing at 5 degee. off flat covered the water heating costs... .. leaving the batteries untouched.. we then exported another 5kw this afternoon, so a third battery would have easy been charged .. ..even still in March . Aj

can you share the construction notes / specifications?

can anyone recommend a excess PV energy diverter to teh immersion with a solis hybrid inverter and pylontech batteries pls.. .. thanks Andy

Hi All, firstly thank you for all the replies.. its interesting that as pointed above a 10kw Grant pulled 3kw when it reads max is less.. perhaps it pulled a bit on immersion? thought id try better to explain my thinking.. sorry if it doesnt make sense, and i coud be very wide of the mark I have found over the years that it is very hard to apply and work with calculations based on predicited heat usage .. kwh , kw .. whilst a piece of paper and S.A.P software can throw about some interesting figures .. there are too many varibles that can effect the outcome.. ..and in reality struggle to reflect anything accurate IMO. Its quite simple maths for me.. my 7.2kw W facing array at 5 deg pumps out just approx 2kw at 9.am on a cloudy day .. 3kw if its sunny (early march 2023) . I have a grant 10kw ASHP which calculations show I need 90% of this to heat my house -3 .. its a fair size at just under 4000sq ft.. . i did try this in early december 2022 cold spell and it worked a treat... but then turned it off as its not been needed. The house has been designed to maximise solar gain, I installed a log burner with back boiler , which can heat my 300l of water to 60 degress in 50mins , then will divert to the buffer tank from whic feeds the under flloor, within a couple of hours the floor is charged (some zones not all 4000 sq ft of floor!) which keeps the house pretty nice until the next night. where if needed i can choose if i want to add a little heat and of what source to provide it .. I fitted some IR heaters to the en suites for instant extra warmth comfort when you juct get out the shower .... and have a log burner in an open plan lounge.. along with x 2 A2A units ( which i can run from the solar to heat the rooms withour cost) I think if i my ASHP runs constant and pulls 2kw, I could dump heat energy into my floor 3 hours in morning & 3 hours in afternoon and it not cost me a penny . and set this up automatic .. say from march - april , october -november.. , based on my previous experiance I will not need any heating at all from mid april to end november unless we hit a perticulary prolonged cold spell without sun... what complicates matters is the ASHP is diverter driven and ramps down (i think) so i cant just turn it on flat out and see what it costs ove a given period.. Perhaps i could pre heat my flow and return to 35 degrees , whack the thermostats up very high , limit teh ashop flow rate and run it for three hours when its about 5 deg and see what it pulls on the graph.. .. that was my thinking anyway .. .

Evening all. looking at the specification for my grant aerona 10kw heat pump it states an input max of 2.10 kw air 7 flow 35 degrees,, .. is that the max the system pulls energy at? im trying to calculate what battery capacity and or solar panel would be required need to run this in spring and autimn .. could someone look over and see what im missing pls https://www.grantuk.com/media/4759/aerona3-r32-data-sheet_feb-2022.pdf

did an experament of pumping cold air through my mvhr ductwork on my last house , I spliced the flow pipes in the loft and pushed through cooled air from a nearby air con.. via a cardboard capture tent and ductwork to see if it would work it created a lot of condensation on the outside of ductwork, and wasnt all that effective. . , when i designed this new house we are in, decided that 3 dedicated air condition units in stratigic places was a far better and cheaper option than insulating all the ductwork for a sub optimal system.. As a bonus in winter if needed they can be used as heaters . you can buy you own split system air con systems and fit your self for a little under 500 pounds,, ive fitted many of these for family and freinds , from my experiance thats where i would put my money every time

IMO sand and cement cracks, deteriates , and requires painting.. all of which are significantly reduced or eliminated with synthetic render , plus no painting required.. there is a reason why sand / cement is not used by the larger developers despite being twice the price of sand of cement.. both the products you note work well ,

Appologies the the point was trying to put across that just because someone has a title qulification does not mean they are better at their job,, real world experiance matters and wins above all else IMO,, and obviously can apply to both titles . break given

sounds good thats unlikely happen in the real world, the chance of having a system designed as you have described by the leading underfllor people, and then set up by a so called experianced plumber, and then tweaked and adjusted by average joe publicsadly is close to zero.. even if it were greater than zero, throw in some heat recovery , log burners and the entire sytem becomes unbalanced .... be inetersted in your own set up and running costs to see whats possible of a well set up system.. do you have a thread somewhere im never to old to learn..

hang on .. first point of call is contact building control.. some of the issues you have listed, would not pass basic building control requirements.. they are there (and charged hansomely no doubt) to make sure that the structure is at least built to minimum standards.safe and fit for pupose , get them out for a structual inspection.. with this information you can go back to builders.. if you choiose it is understandable that if the builders couldnt not do it right the first time then they are unlikely to the second time, but at least hold building control accounatble for taking your money for site inspections .. things like roof trimmers not being correct are structual items , if they have passed them fit and they do not meet there own regulation requirements , it shoud have been picked up.. if it has been missed then id be claiming against building control.. get them back out for an inspection tommorrow.. or it may have been picked up and your builders have ignoired it,, but again thsi gives you amunitiion to reuest the 3k or proceed ith court proceedings if they do not put it right at their cost ..

100% all what id expect to see in those areas ..

please explain this.. i understand the mixer valves , and removed from manifolds, but to remove individul room stats confuses me.. bedrooms you may want typically at 18-19, bathrooms at 21, office may not need any if many computers on, how do you regulate that ? surelly having those rooms that require less input heat, turn off when desired temperrure reached allows other rooms to be heated with less ashp energy or running time therfore more efficency.. what am i missing ?

just finished my new build , and we recieved the 5000 or my plumber did.. .after submitt8ing the forms taken from gov website.. new builds as in developers , not applicable . How does this affect self builders? While homeowners in new builds are not able to apply, self builders are eligible, and will have a three month period in which to apply. In addition, self builders won’t need an Energy Performance Certificate, which is a requirement for existing home owners.

to advoid creaking in floors, they will need to have been glued .. no need for nails or screws just glue. check what the manufacture recommends on their install instructions .. if not followed get it done correctly now, as it is impossible to correct later nail the first row then glue the rest, screws , nails, or a combo of both at some point will always lead to creaking unfortunately . if correct glue used i woudl expect to see see it everywhere running down the joists, cant seem to see much ? what did they use glue wise?

have you thought about mono pitch roofs , salthouse roof or a combo of the two .. with some projecting overhangs.. it would add interest, externally, and give you some pretty cool features internally .. a contemporay barn / feel?

Ii Have this exact set up in our home, Our ashp can run as normal, if anyone lights the log burner , as soon as a closed flow and return temperature loop through the back boiler reach 45degrees it shuts off the heat pump and circulates this stove heated water through the buffer tank for under floor.. . if i boost my HW timer or if the timer calls for the hw tank to be heated whilst stove is heating , it just diverts from buffer tank to hw cylinder... .. I have manully turned by ASHP off as i have no need for it,, the house doesnt really cool down enough between lighting the log burner in the evening.. basically since december when we fired everything up (its a new house) , I tested the ASHP for a couple of days then shut it down . just lighting the back boiler stove in the evenings along with another stove in our family kitchen diner room. works a treat.. we do benifit from solar gain when sunny, house is designed to maximise this in summer .. and i would recommend to any one to take advantage of that.. our house is 4000 sq ft. in the bathrooms we have under floor but i see no need to use energy on those rooms that get used the least, so these are heated on demand with 1000w IR bar heaters.. works perfectly.. When have needed hw and couldnt be bothered to light the back boiler, we just turned on teh heat pump for that purpose.. next week i will b einstalliung 7.2kw solar array and batteries , with immersion dump. we will need to figure out the best way (efficent) to heat the water in a month or two when lighting the back boiler will create to much warmth in the house.. FYI house is brick / block with timber clad external , aluminum windows, and heat recovery, full U/f heating, x 1 ASHP to water and (x 2 A2A air con/ heat units not used yet) Hope that helps you. R Andy

thought I might chip in on this .. A company may have 1 architect and 30 architectural technologists. but can call themselves an architecural practice. a company may have no architect and 30 architectural technologist and call themselves architectural consultants the Architect may be fresh out of college with no real world experiance , clueless on cost delivery , clueless on how things get built in the real world to a budget . the Architectural technologists may have been drawing and designing houses / projects for 30 years , working along side engineers, construction site personal , and homeowners to deliver projects on time and on budget . bioth have excatly the same insurance cover for your project, Who would you rather have working on you project. oh and both both have teh same cover for insurance.. im not saying thats the case in all situations, but to explain how it could pan out .. both would be capable of undertaking the project , both competent to do so, and both legally able. . r andy