tuftythesquirrel

Apart from making sense, if you don't, you wont have adequate fire resistance, if you haven't followed the M.I.'s. If the BCO comes round as you are doing it he could reject it as not fit for purpose. Our space joist installation data says.... Plasterboard Notes:..... 4. Perimeter and intermediate noggins are required to support the boards at their edges. Perimeter noggins are required for all board thicknesses and joist centres, whereas intermediate noggins are only required for the thinner boards at larger centres. See fire resistance tables

We had an Internorm quote and they gave us 25% discount of the price. Our next door neighbour got 43%!! Never found out why. Ended up going with Idealcombi PH rated at about £400/m2 bought mid 2020.

Good morning all, Could anyone recommend a really durable external wood paint? I’m using the following system at the moment: Gori 11 Wood Preservative Gori 99 Extreme Opaque Wood Finish It’s water based, so dries really quickly. I’ve used it before and it seems to offer good long term protection, however I have the following issues: It seems to really emphasise the wood grain effect. Where we have plain doors (no wood grain), I was trying to tone down the wood grain in the bespoke door frames we have had made, to get a better match. However, it seems to have really sunk into to grain. Last week I painted the door to our bat roost. The door was made last year and has always been kept inside. This week the paint still seems tacky i.e. if you leave anything on it, when you remove it, there is a slight “stiction” before you can move the item. The paint still seems slightly soft. Could anyone recommend a good long term painting solution. Many thanks.

Wise words, if only I had known...

Great suggestion, I'll do the same when my KOMFORT EC SB550 breaks down 😁

Yes and the slab is never perfectly flat, so there is more opportunity to correct any undulations going over it twice.

What they said above. When I used to phone a merchant and order Celotex, they just hear, that white stuff over in the corner of the yard and delivered Recticel regardless. The thermal conductivity for all the products is very similar in any case. The most important factor is how it is installed – what can be detrimental to the performance is gaps. I did multiple layers of it (because no one stocks it 250mm thick). I filled all joining surfaces with an airtight sealing foam as you would use mortar on blocks and also sealed the top of the joints with foil tape. A bit over the top maybe, but there ain’t no gaps. The biggest saving by far I found was to buy seconds locally. A chap delivered us 2 trailer loads, he said he gets it from the Kingspan factory. It was probably less than half price.😁

Lime & Cement I had a builder friend renovate part of our 450 year old house. He said he would use a lime & cement mix for the internal render, since he had been doing it "all his life". It failed and cracked in the time honoured tradition, so that you could see every one of the stone mortar joints under the render. When I susequently went on a lime building course at Ty Mawr Lime, Brecon, I relayed my experience. They said the mix was totally inappropriate and bound to fail. They also advised that the modulus of elasticity of the lime mix is some 400 times more flexible than good old cement. We removed it and re-rendered it with lime and it was perfect. Unfortunately, it seemed to me he had been doing it "all his life" wrong!

I've used these and the Everbuild Aquaseal is a much better (different) product, much more durable. TDS says "no rising moisture?

I was only looking for a waterproof, easily applied, durable covering. I've got an in built aversion to anything two pack. That is, manufacturers instructions say 30 minutes gel time and you're 15 minutes in and it's started to gel and your brush is stuck to the roof, mould or anything else you are using it on. This product is is way more flexible than polyester resin, even with multiple layers of fibre in it and you've much, much longer to get it on the substrate, literally hours. I've coated a piece of internal floorboard and left it outside 18 months ago (in the sun and rain etc.) and it still looks like I just put it on.

I wouldn't want to do any fibre glassing on the roof. I wonder why someone hasn't come up with a resin that uses moisture to set, like PU glue. I can recommend the Everbuild Aquaseal. I used it because it was a single coat application. I looked others, but priming and top coating would extend the job time. I put on a double coat of fibre glass, the second at 90 degrees to the first, then two more coats. It UV resistant out of the can, whereas other products need a top coat. I used it on a pitch change on our Kingspan Quad-Core metal roof. The professional roofer had attempted a fiberglass joint which blew off in the wind, it was worse than useless. I would definitely use this on a flat roof if it had to. Everbuild technical support were very helpful. https://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/everbuild-aquaseal-liquid-roof-membrane-coating-21kg-grey-aqliqrfgy21?language=en-gb&currency=GBP&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw48-vBhBbEiwAzqrZVIIoeVRo2Uq_AorAxtICel9dYxZNqqNpzFaSn7J-g7lzr8sZM2PNrRoCrEcQAvD_BwE

Could you tell me how thick was the XPS as it will affect the budget if I go thicker. Thanks.

@joth Out of interest what were the "tricks" he wanted to use. I had our BCO tell me I could I could tape up the windows and doors - but I don't think I want to, since it sort of defeats the point of buying the triple glazed windows etc. and we won't be living like that. I wasn't clear where all the "rules" were written down 😏

Hi @Big Jimbo, I've had a response from the BCO, who seems to have changed his story, in that he now agrees with me that the BS 7671 EIC form can't be used. He is now saying that the building control (or council) maintenance team can be used to do this. There is a special Development Category (D71) for "electrical work - carried out by others" for which there is a fixed charge of £650 (inc. VAT). He said there are inspections at the first and second fix stages, which I'm going to try to change and ask them to review my electrical schematics before I start the install, rather than them pick things up after they have been installed. I've also asked him what type of documentation they produce, since the Part P approved document says that neither the BS 7671 EIC and EICR are suitable. I'll see what happens.