ringi

If I do concrete, insulation, UFH. How practical is it to get the concrete layed in one room as a time by a borrow mix company? Do they level the concete well enough to install insulation directly on it? I like the ideal of having a clean, mad free, site so I can personally install insulation/UFH so it is done correctly. Also lets me decide the depth while digging done and seeing how deep the walls go. Then decide if I can get enough insulation for UFH. How does the cost of Liquid screed change if I do one room at a time? Is mixing it myself rather then getting it pumped a sensible option?

Given the dips in the middle of some rooms, I expecting more like 1". So do we do a lot of levelling command and new radiators/pipework or UFH (done correctly)?

How much? I was thinking 100mm as minimalist with 200mm being more like it. Hence careing about total thickness of concrete and screed.

If I carefully dig up my exisiting floor in our 1930 bungalow, do I need concrete under the insulation if I have liquid screed over the UFH pipes? If I was to put UFH pipes in concrete, how good a finish does self level concrete give? Eg how much additional levelling before carpets/LVTs? Practically how do I level under the insulation? (The walls seem not to concrete foundations but to be at least a foot deeper then floor level.)

Remember with large thermal mass UFH the thermal mass behaves as a buffer so it as if the UFH contained a lot more water then it does. So cycling of heatpumps that have directly connected always open UFH will be less of an issue then with radiators. Personally I would use fan converter radiators upstairs rather then having a mixer/pump to reduce UFH flow temperature so the complete system runs at the same flow temperature with a single pump. Use the flow temperature to control the heat output from the UFH, with balancing flow rates to control individual rooms and the thermostat controled fans on upstairs fan convectors to control bedroom temperature.

Half of that part list is not needed unless you are also putting radators in the system. Even then I question the pump/mixer rather then letting the pump in the heatpump/boiler do it all.

I am thinking of designing UFH as zoned, but not installing any room thermostats or activators. Just have a 13 amp socket near manifold for use if I need to later put in a few wireless overheat prevention room stats. Party I may wish to overheat the living room area of our banaglow on cheap rate electricity, but that is 3/4 of floor area so limiting our bedroom will not force use of buffer tank.

You can install double height skirting in these few rooms, or add a radiator as well as the skirting. Remember if you make any effort with airtightless the normaly calculated heatlose will be max more then true heatlose.

The solar gain maybe on external walls resulting in them losing less heat then the weather compensation assumes. Remember people and electrics etc are also adding heat to the building.

A semi related question, how does the system last as long as a normal roof given UV light can hit the trays?

Thanks, how does the system keep both strings at the same voltage so they can be connected in parallel?

So this is likely showing my misunderstanding, but I though SolarEdge only had a single input to the inverter that all optimisors/panels are connected to, unlike other makes that often have two optimisors in the inverter with two sets of connectors.

To quote Octopus says "A solar system with a maximum generation of 9 kWp", hence what use is a 10kw inverter? I am right to assume Octopus does not care about the number of panels provided the inverter is not over 9kwh? If the battery is separate from the PV inverter is the battery export capacity disregarded in the Octopus 9kw limit?

Can I use a single SolarEdge inverter for both the house and a deteched garage that is about 10m away? If so what sort of cable needs to be connected to the garage and how does it need protecting? I have East and West facing roof on the single garage with South,East and West on the house, (also North facing roof on the house that I expect I will not use). Is there any issues with the SolarEdge per panel micro inverters with roof integrated PV? As the work will be combined with a re-roof and I have some shading I am thinking as many panels as possible make sense using the ability for SolarEdge to have double the panel capacity then inverter output.