pauldoc

Kinda jumping in here but on the same subject. has anyone got an opinion on the vortex plant? Looking at it it allows you to reduce its capacity if it's underused

Thanks I'll take a look

I haven't got a water course close by. There is already a septic tank on site but I don't think this will meet BR for the replacement property. I can place the new tank in front of the property but there is a spot to the rear that would be a neat solution. The tanker hose would have to reach around the garage but would be under 30m. Would this be ok?

I'm trying to decide where to place the treatment plant for the drainage plans. The preferred place is going to be the furthest distance from where the emptying lorry would park. Does anyone know the usual/max distance the hose from the tanker lorry reaches?

This is one of the solutions

Hopefully this file is readable it shows the set up without the block skin or plinth i will try to post the idea they have come up with

I am trying to copy one onto here but I am on my iPad so trying to figure it out....bare with?

Hopefully someone can help me with this! My project has a few external finishes, ceder,render and stone cladding. The stone cladding is approx 40mm thick. It is a timber frame sitting on a block and beam floor. Now my dilemma is I was hoping not to have an outer block work skin, it makes more sense economically I think. This has caused some head scratching with the architect as I think in his mind it would have had this. Looking on this forum it seems a lot of you are of the same opinion. However, I have an issue at dpc as the render board and cladding above will sit back and not flush with the block work below the dpc. Due to the fact that there are telescopic air vents. I hope that makes sense? my architect has suggested a block work plinth around the bottom about a metre high clad in stone cladding as a solution. My builder said trim the vents but I don't think this solves the issue. Do I need to have a block work skin or does someone know an alternative solution?

The price i paid was for the warranty and build regs .As Peter pointed out it worked out a lot cheaper. The total price for both was around 3200 for me

yes selfbuildzone came back cheaper than buildstore I cant remember exactly now but i found a number of the other warranty providers use the same underlying company for the warranty and came back with differing quotes

I think you are right but oddly i got different quotes from them!

have you tried selfbuildzone ? they came out the best for me. Cheaper than your lowest quote for a larger m2. I should add that I am not going the MBC route

the only thing slightly similar i have seen is on the one I have taken with selfbildzone, i have a some area of flat roof that will be GRP. In the terms of the warranty this has to have a separate guarantee from the installer.

+1 get it in writing/email. I sent an email to BC with what we had discussed and asked them to reply confirming they agreed and def check any pre commencement conditions have been discharged. These caught me out as they can take 8 weeks to discharge

One other thing i would suggest is to do it as soon as you can, and not to leave to the last few days. The wheels do not turn too quickly in these depts

I had a similar situation. I checked first with building control and then confirmed what they proposed with the planning dept. I had to dig part of the foundations, about a 5m length to the proper depth and part fill it with concrete. I then could send in photos with date stamp on them to satisfy the departments. I did ask if there was any slightly less non invasive work i could do instead but they insisted this was the easiest option for me. As Prodave says every development is different , I did ask if i could dig the trench for the drain or soakaway but this didnt satisfy my council/BC. I have to say BC were more approachable and understood that I just didnt want to lose my permission and not as 'officious' as the planning dept

Even getting them to answer the phone is a mission! If this guy had picked up the phone at the start it could have been sorted in one conversation. I think some (not all) are a little braver hiding behind emails. When I get to the end of this project (seems a long long way off!) and I add up all the unnecessary extras (in my eyes) It will be a significant sum

After many emails back and forth the chap at EH has now thankfully agreed with me and will take the finding of the Phase1 survey. Just a few more grey hairs! I have to say it really would have helped if he had come to site instead of making lots of assumptions I sent him photos in the end with very simple descriptions! He did say he felt that a cost 500-900 pounds wasnt an excessive cost for a safe development !! .These extra 500 quids all add up!!

that's my thoughts to! Thanks i'll take a look

I guess its a generic concern. I was initially worried about it because of the extensive glazing we have on the south elevation. basically its double height glazed gable- entrance/hall and bedroom upstairs. The roof over hangs by around a metre. When I spoke to the window manufacturer about solar reflective they suggested double glazing will cut the heat down slightly, and in the winter when you want heat from the sun the reflective glazing would make the house too cold. I think as you suggest I have to look into other ways of shading. We do have trees, but I think we wll need blinds of some kind too

Jeremy One thing the manufacturer said was that with triple glazed units the sun entering it is in effect being magnified twice by the additional pane, increasing the heat, which is what most people want to increase solar gain on purpose to have that extra free heat. And sounds like what was happen to your units with the high temp of the inner pane. They also said that reflective glazing can cause the house to be too cold as it cuts too much solar gain out and that double glazing is a good happy medium as the solar gain is less than triple glaze. Whether this is true or not I don't know. They recommended a mix of glazing units, with triple to the rear northern elevations and double to the south, which has large expanses of glass. I am not building to especially passive standards, just a decent level. I am more concerned about the solar gain at this point and am worried the house will be unbearably hot. They have quoted solar reflective glazing approx. 20% higher than standard glass, not sure if that is to the overall cost or just the units I didn't check. Sounds a lot if its to the overall price.

Another question along the same lines Is there a difference in what type of glazing causes more solar gain...i.e does double or triple glazing cause more solar gain? I ask because I spoke to a manufacturer and they suggested triple glazing causes more solar gain so to specify only double glazing on the elevations that will suffer with it the most

thanks Barney. Just as I thought, looks like I need approx. 50mm wide and 45mm for the height

I just need to double check I have the right info. I am looking at specifying Velux roof windows and as you all know they have various sizes. Now I believe the sizes relate to the external frame size. I need to confirm with the timberframe supplier what structural opening I require. I think it will be slightly larger than the external frame size. For example one of the window sizes will be 78x160 cm. Does anyone know if there is a measurement/allowance i have to add for the opening in the roof? I am guessing there will be some for the flashing. It will be the slate flashing. Not recessed.

Sorry he did also say there could have been a spill when the tank was being refilled.....and like you guys have said, I might have spilt oil /fuel filling the mower/car. It still doesn't justify holding the work up or having the authority to make you do these things in my opinion