Digmixfill

I've put a few rows on at the gable. Vent and batten will kickup ~34mm. It doesn't look wrong with a 38mm kickup from the brickwork. I hadn't considered that it might upset the verge. It looks like the verge I am planning to use will accommodate.

Typo -> The vent itself is 15mm tall. 🙁

I've managed to get all of the eaves and rafters to play nice with each other. The plane of the battens either meets the edge of the brickwork, or steps in a little. This would work OK for the eaves and first course of plain tiles. A bit late in the game I thought to try and squeeze in an over fascia vent. The vent itself is 25mm tall and if it's fixed to a 19mm batten it creates quite a kick up. I haven't come up with a way to secure the vent to the brickwork without the timber. The gap in the image caused by the kick up looks huge - it's probably 12-15mm. How much kick up is too much?

I went with a pair of locating nails driven perpendicular to the jack rafter face and three 4.5mm Ø nails at ~23° to the jack rafter face at the thickest part of the connection. All piloted in the jack.

Most of the internal wall and PIR is in place. Enough to be in the way. Are structural screws acceptable? If all else fails I could get something like timco index screws in place and wind them in with a ratchet spanner. When you drive your nails in, do you drive them perpendicular to the valley, perpendicular to the jack or somewhere in between?

I've never had to nail this type of timber connection. I don't want to make a mess of it. How far from the feathered edge should the nails be? Half way up the length of the cheek cut or more toward the uncut part of the timber? The valley rafter is a doubled up 44x142. It will need a long nail to go from the back 😯

I'm at the jack rafter point now. How many nails are required in a 44x142mm valley jack cheek connection? I'm hand-nailing. What size and at what angle should the nails be inserted? All of the cheeks are easily accessible bar one. The jack rafter next to the gable will be 50mm away from the blockwork. Not much room at all there.

Whilst experimenting, I was mindful of the plane of the roof. The adjustment timber brings the rafters in to the same plane and down to the same angle as the unadjusted rafters. I chose stainless screws for the glue/timber connection specifically because they will bend and not snap. With the cascamite and the large bonding surface area, the connection should be stronger than the wood itself. I'm not using nails to hold the rafters themselves in place. I'm using M8 stainless coach screws through the rafter into the wall plate. Pull-out/pull-though force for each connector is considerably more than skew nails.

I spent a while experimenting with different things and I've opted for a lump of C16 under at least 2 rafters. A handful of stainless screws and once i've finished cutting the rafters and levelling i'll finally fix with cascamite and screws. The timber adjustment pieces get gradually thinner to follow the adjustment required. This gives me the same birdsmouth cut as the unadjusted rafters, so less mucking about marking and cutting.

By that do you mean you would lift the wall plate itself, or fix the shim to the wall plate?

Internal walls are in the way for an end to end measurement, but I measured the diagonals of the largest room. It's around 4.5m long and 4-ish-m wide. One diagonal was a good 5cm longer than the other. Argh, that's not how I roll. It would bug me for the rest of my days if I didn't try to level things out Which is preferred - glueing and fixing the shim to the rafter seat or glueing and fixing the shim to the wall plate?

I'm converting an old brick barn. The original walls are all over the place. I have built a new inner leaf following the best line I could. Everything is a work around By the time i've stuck insulation under the rafters I won't see any evidence of rafter adjustments. Would a shim cut from the C16 wall plate offcuts be sufficient? Just cut them to the width of the rafter and glue & nail underneath the seat? I'll check, but the odds are against square.

It's definitely the building being somewhat less than square. The wall plate hasn't budged at all. At the worst point the span is > 75mm less than the opposing side. You would keep the 60mm birds-mouth seat and shim the wall plate height for each affected rafter?

I've run into a snag with my cut rafter plan. My ridge beams are level, and the new wall plates are level, but I didn't measure the span distance between the ridge and the walls all the way along. I foolishly assumed everything would be parallel - I really should have known better. One side of the roof is proceeding as expected. 50x150mm rafters at just under 35 degrees with a birdsmouth seat length of 60mm. The side with the progressively diminishing span isn't going to work at the shortest end. The angle changes, and the projection of the rafter at the foot is quite a distance away from the eaves edge. If I put a piece of 22mm timber under the worst offending rafter with the current birdsmouth cut, everything works, but i'd obviously need to use progressively smaller bits of timber on the other rafters. If i reduce the birdsmouth seat length, I can get it to work with the existing wall plate, but i'll be heading toward 30-35mm seat length. What is the accepted minimum seat length? I can only find details for maximum birdsmouth depth. An exaggerated plan view of the roof attached. Red=ridge beam Black=eaves. How would you resolve this?

I think there will be enough distance between wall plate and gutter for flashing. We have very deep corbelled eaves. It's a maybe. Not sure how we would stand with planning for that though. Worth an email to them to see if they have anything. I was planning to splay top and bottom. Is splaying the sides worth the effort?? Pictures might help: