Furnace

@Katie AG Received another quote (PH15) this morning. Much more expensive at £824/m2 excluding erection labour All these quotes are for frames only, no windows/doors.

One quote was more expensive, probably mostly due to the distance they'd have to transport the kit and accommodate the site team. I'm still awaiting 2 other quotes.

Excellent point. I know how pissed off I am when I get a puncture. One of the chaps who quoted for the demo job said they run a mega-magnet over the crushed material from the posts to remove the hundreds of mini ties that held the rebar in place. Fortunately the site has access on a tarmac/concrete drive so vans/cars are OK, but dumpers/tractors/telehandlers are still vulnerable.

The chap I have in mind for the work was quite interested in the job since it's away from roads and buildings so is quite 'easy' for him. I made it clear that I was after clean, useable product and he appeared to understand. I'll discuss prior to engagement and will be onsite when they're doing the work.

Have you got their number?

From bitter experience, I'm very wary of the potential for self-serving results of the various stages. The Desktop Based Assessments are a gateway for 'recommendation' and thus more business. It's now likely I will need a Archaeological DBA (along with ecological, heritage, environmental, inside leg measurements, dietary predilections etc.) and I'll be very cautious about who I engage. The cheapest may make recommendations for further work, whereas a more pragmatic (honest) outcome might initially cost more, but not open a can of worms. A phone call and discussion prior to engagement is essential. I didn't know this when I started. Bonne chance

Gotcha. Sounds like I should get it crushed to 50mm to make it the most useful.

I'm getting close to choosing the companies to do these jobs and want to ensure I end up with useful material. I aim to keep the crushed concrete on site for use as sub base for drives and paths. What size do I want it to be after crushing? 50mm diameter? Cheers

What about those aluminium cafe jobs? And keep some cushions in a handy box by the door? I had envisioned this as my solution Like this:

Not a bad price if it gives you want you want. Does the price include good weather so you can enjoy it?

plus a rusting BBQ.... External blinds or a brise soleil are looking more attractive by the minute

My proposed one was only 3 feet so falls well short. With the potential cold bridging issues and the likely cost, I think my mind is now made up. Many thanks

That's my thinking, but the partner believes otherwise.....I'm building up my evidence to make the case for eliminating them. Particularly since the non-balcony version of the design is what has been submitted for planning.

😯 And that's rather what I think about balconies I completely get what you say about West and East windows being very difficult to shade with a brise soleil, balcony or roof overhang. That's why the house design has very limited glazing on those elevations (and the views from them are not inspiring anyway). My main concern is the South facing elevation and I think that's where a brise soleil could work well - probably better than blinds. Of course the difficulty is not knowing beforehand what works from a performance and practicality standpoint.

You're very honest to admit that - it's exactly one of my concerns. My potential ones are south facing, but I find the grim dark winters bad enough without a dingy space beneath that prevents much needed light entering the room.

Installing the required strengthening into the structure makes sense to me. Adding bits and pieces afterwards to mitigate doesn't sound good. I now have a better grasp of the viability of brise vs balcony. Now I need to get a handle on costings before deciding. Many thanks to all for your input.

Thanks Dave. Looking good 👍

Since this project is a PH new build, I'm keen to design out potential issues at the very beginning. PHPP and the consultant pointed to overheating risks, hence the desire for shading. I like the concept of a brise soleil due to its passive nature - no moving parts like blinds - and am awaiting some quotes. They may well be pricey and I'm not sure how a TF supplier will view them since they add a potentially considerable load that varies with wind strength/direction, angle and spacing of fins. More head scratching to do.

I believe brise soleil is invariable (and usually hyphenated) in French, but 'brise-soleils' is generally accepted. 'Brises soleils' is never seen out in public - even worse then 'Banana's for sale' However let's not get bogged down in units or @SteamyTea will be along to rant😉

Do you have pics Dave?

@Gus Potter Thanks so much for your thoughtful and detailed comments. I need to think about them and reply accordingly. I'll be back (said without the menacing tone)

And I'm a pessimist by nature.... Send 'em my way

Gotcha. Although that may come from the frame supplier if I go for a complete package. My architect would almost certainly contract out that work.

I've used an architect to design the gaff, and a planning consultant to apply for planning. If the application is successful, I'm likely to go with a MBC type of build. The next decision seems to be whether I use the architect to hold my hand to progress the project, or try to go it alone. I think an MBC type route will mean I don't need separate construction drawings and structural engineer input for the shell or foundations, but I'll need other information for building control - layout/spec details for rainwater drainage, sewage pipes (no mains sewage, so treatment unit), MVHR, electricity, plumbing, mains water and more stuff I haven't thought about. I'm sure the architect will do/arrange this for me, but at a likely hefty cost. I'm thinking I will also need to have construction details for the roofers (zinc standing seam), cladding (horizontal wood), guttering (there's a valley to contend with) and other stuff I haven't yet thought about. I think it's important to ensure that these external items (plus windows and doors) interface in the best possible mechanical, but also aesthetically pleasing way and I don't want to leave it to each trade to decide on the hoof. I'll also need I'm retired so have the time, but don't know if I can achieve the comprehensive level of detail that will mitigate as many 'on site' problems as possible. I'm a detail person by profession, and am not comfortable leaving things to chance. Although I appreciate that there will be unforeseen issues that have to be navigated, I'd like to have as few avoidable ones as possible for the sake of my wallet and sanity. My initial thinking was to have a phased approach to the project, but am aware that a holistic view is also necessary to avoid the 'if I'd only done that when I was laying the foundations' feeling when a guttering issue pops up 6 months later. Having someone involved who has experience could be very helpful in avoiding expensive mistakes. Am I being overly pessi/optimistic?

I'm about to have this conversation with my architect (assuming planning is granted). They've been involved from the start up to the planning application (via interim Class Q) and I'm debating how to address the rest of the project. I'm inclined not to engage them for full Stage 4, since I aim to use a timber frame company that will provide engineering and detailing for the shell. I think they also outsource the 'services' bit (mechanical, electrical, plumbing) so I may not use them for that either. However, the detailing of external junctions (roofing, cladding, rainwater goods, windows and doors) is something they may be able to provide. I (currently) have a good relationship with her and can report back on my findings if you'd like.