zoothorn

Seriously- it would be useful if someoe could put numbers on the teets, i can refer to my heat/ hw pipes clearly, being in perfect positions like my two pairs of pipes under my box thingy.

@Onoff understand that.. and i do see areas of cold bridging at my french doors, oddly only on one side, black mould alot. Also just feel the window is a cold area, reveal, sill etc, so ld never be able to make a fully perfect sealed room. I think its as best i can do tbh. My toasty workshop tho.. pine outside door, 1" pir on its back, gap under of 8mm to outside, not great seal around. Even opening door alot, warmth wins.. its just never cold. Its as odd this room being this warm, as the room above struggling for warmth: its a bit better but still not nearly as warm. Door on today tho might help a bit more.. temp one one doing well tho: i did ask a q on hinges, back yesterday. @onoff etc. thx

@joe90 could you put numbers on the udders joe? Rhs back one = 2, Rhs fwd one = 3, Lhs fwd one = 4, Lhs back one = 5. 2 = heating rtn 3 = heating flow 4 = dhw flow 5 = dhw rtn thx zh

Udders are 'girl cows privates' Onoff, wobbly mammary sack under tail with 2 sets of pipes: LHS (DHW) and RHS ( heating). Thanks to joe for useful reference photo.

Haha. Morning. More confusion 10 mins after i fkn get out of bed, no not my balls aren't awol/ im used to that.. temp figs. And I dont like the idea of joe undoing his zipper 1st thing (you forgot pocaster's successfully urinated under his bridge).

No waiting to buy flowerpots! Daftly small clay pots holding up putting in 3 x more rolls. Shops closed etc. Should get new room door on today tho! see if this helps contain better heat. I can get it to 18* max by 4 pm in new top bedroom.. just warm enough, comfortable even. most of day its around 16.5*. What Ive thought but not asked, is if its been on during day, desired 18.5 & its got thermostat room up to temp (about 11am earliest) then all ok like so for a few hrs.. if I then put in desired 22*, next day same time I put in 30*: would it put in a different flow temp to try getting these different figs, or no, same flow temp.. but increaces the duration on for: less time for 22* alot longer for 30*? You see Im confused by the Rhs udder pipe temps ( just touched LHS pair/ dhw/ cold tho) i got 44* or so y'day, mostly tho i got 35* or so reading these 4 x y'day.. today now ( expect it chugging along well trying 1st thing, get my new top room up from 13*.. so its 15* at the mo) it's only 32* at RHS udders. My desired = 22* at the mo. So i just whacked in 30* ( max) for desired, see if flow temp goes up. Now I read udders 5 mins later.. 26*: now whether it goes off - then into a new gear, max gear perhaps- then ramps up again, so this dip is usual.. i dont know, but it confuses my udder readings.THX ZH

But that's the hot water pipes-? At the mo Ive got them on the Rhs heating pipes @ 34.8... 35, seems to be what its running at max tonight (20.5* desired temp, it only got thermostat room to 18.5*, my new top bedroom right now 17*). Fwiw the looong rad1 in main big old room below L 32.5... R 35. The rad2 still 27.. 28 or so. I'll try this again tmrw morning, LHS pair of udders, set it to 25*. Its similar outside temp next few days so useful for comparison. thanks for help today chaps.

28* and 26* now so I don't know what's going on.

@PeterW rads have been hot (again) now for 5 mins, the heat compressor active for 15mins.. so I read on the RHS pair of pipes 36.1* and 30*. Assuming these will increace -if- yesterday I got 44* figures. But when to get an accurate reading you see, either on rads or at the box pipe underside 'udders' I don't exactly know.

Yup yup ok. Look I'm struggling with the flow temp reading 1st.. & it's so damn cold out, no log fire till tmrw, I'd prefer to do this turnings off then. @PeterW I'm struggling cos 15mins ago I ramp the desired temp up to 22.5* from 18* the room temp was (all day desired 18.5*).. but the rads are not hot/ still in a slumber mode. Yet another thing I cannot understand (& seems to do exactly the same "idle" state from 6.30am >>> right to 8am, until 'ping' summink trips & the rads flare up hot in 5 mins flat). Surely, it should be going hammer & tongs now. Flamin thing.

I was only wondering t'other day I wonder where JSH is.. concerned he might well have shuffled off tbh (without leaving me his ac30), glad he's with us! He'd know what my flow temp was.

Bugger. Ok 1st I -knew- you 'd be back for some more, & 2ndly I have my do-da's attatched on your RHS pair of pipes & heating on since 6.30am.. but rads gone into a slumber. So in 10mins & I'll get the flow temp @ the box thingy. Maybe, if its in full swing that is.. thanks Peter.

oh yes you do, settle down children- Jeremy has been very helpful on many occasions,my kitchen build and many things, & with his vox ac30 & piloting things that interested me (my grandpa one of the Amy Johnson pioneer aviators C1932) etc. Actually I had thought he was most probably dead to be quite honest.

Ok thanks for that. Im not sure if its a linear relationship between 1207 and 366.. but see the obvious, that 40* seems too low, although whether im meant to have bang on 55* on one side or both of my rad im not sure. Again i ask, surely there must be some loss expected from the box thingy to a rad? I'll go try measuring @ the box thingy now, assuming its running high in 4th gear as it were when i measure it, not 2nd gear..

Ok ok. Understand that. In fact thats the first reply ive understood in ages. Apart from being called a c@@@. I understood that.

Hi Mjn. type 22- sorry i thought only one double type.. and w600 x h700. Thx

Im not.. everyone else is, Onoff started it sir. Jesush. I can only imagine i said back then no evidence suggests air, no cold top of rad etc, what i said here hoping the idea would bog off. But others joined Onoff, of course, so i had to reply or 'you ignor advice'. And now im told im 'going on about it'!! Cant win!

Ok understand the 1 st bit of this! but why if it gets piping hot.. as i expect only that it will.. would it suggest any info other than of this radiator? It gets all the rads hot all 8 x on as its doing, so far that is, that just for now by feeling their temps by hand that they feel hot.. so then how can the suggestion be anything other than its perfectly capable of running the rads, & is doing just that?

Ok thanks, understood but if Ive had countless engineer visits, one room gets nicely warm, the rads tend to at least feel similarly hot, then is it not surely highly likely the heat pump is set up correctly, despite my mfr issues remaining? Can the ashp run ok turning all rads off?

I used the box things, put in my room dims, window sizes, i put in no insulation under floor and in walls ( 1 cm in walls but lets call that zero, i mean im not gonna tick yes unless a box for 1 cm) 100mm+ in loft above. 600 x 700mm double rad. i cant get any of that wrong!

@ProDave So my kitchen BTU = 3603. My rad is a double-sized, fins in the middle standard 100mm D type, dims: 600 x 700mm.

Hi Roundtuit, thanks for that explanation- much easier when it's spelled out like this. Yes I do get the gist that the Vaillant chaps have a different job not to do with the rads choice for rooms. And I get the gist clearly the consensus is that the kit isn't correctly sized. And I am resolute in saying, even so that I believe it to be correct enough, if not pin-point perfect, IE rad sizes for the spaces they're in. But I will do the BTU calcs for the kitchen here. It's known, due to constraints in what they could fit in, that it -is- undersized. I said this all along. But even so, not by the margin the cold is suggesting (& therefore in the consensus view the rad's size/ the install is the culprit). It's 13.5*C in here now (desired is 18.5*C) so achieving 0.7*C of heat at it's best efforts up from 12.5*C at 8am -might- suggest a bingo! there you go zooter you tooter! told you! moment IF..... I had a rad the size of a postage stamp in here.

Ok so my kitchen = 3603 btu's. Is that what you mean?

Ok but what does this info mean in terms of what can be done? I mean the suggestion surely can't be remove any rads & me replace them.. can it? or even attempt contacting the installers about it.. if it takes 7 months to get a leak fixed?

@Onoff back to doors. (also onto with Vaillant yet again series of emails, battling again to get these two issues fixed. And it seems I ve got to battle a load of replies getting rather nasty again name slinging etc. need a break). As said my hinge frame bows in the middle a bit, 3mm. So Ive set this mid hinge the usual chisel-job set in the frame to get all in a line on the frame. Also whittled a bit off the door here. So the other hinges above & below sit on the frame, without chiselled in, to get this parity. Is getting this hinge line parity preferable, over setting the other two hinges chiselled-into the frame too? does it make a jot of difference having the mid hinge a bit nearer the door-? could *in theory this bow-in be 10mm, & the disparity between the line of hinges be fairly big? simple I'm sure but I cant picture the results on opening the door in this * eg. thanks. zH