zoothorn

Hi Jason- tbh I think those are very good questions, but alas I don't know/ a yr ago my builder's 'team' fitted them.. I'll try digging out photos. thanks

Crikey that's complicated. Thanks tho TBC. I think what I was suggesting as a question, was if my builder, or myself, is somehow responsible for this excessive condensation? Is it something building control will spot & perhaps want rectified before signing off I wonder?

Oh Im not saying mine arent just bog std ones loads have, or Im making a fuss unneccessarily (my underlay- my feet have got used to, like new shoes, but do still ache a bit): but I do get hugely more condensation than others do, than is normal, & nothing Ive ever known in any other house Ive lived in, others' houses, hotel rooms etc. I know only that its like a rainforest here, my wibbly records/ y-fronts never properly dry, post is all flippy floppy soft paper etc.. Im certain this is most of the cause although I cant proove it: & you see this is not within my control.

Aha ok MJN. Ok can measure these things. Thing is even if I get results on this front even by opening the small window vent, Im loathed to because it lets in cold air.. if Im primarily struggling for warmth in here, it seems counterintuitive to do even this if Ive spent 7 hrs scrabbling to get the room temp up to 18.5*C, even opening & closing door is done in a jiffy to keep warmth in (unless mvhr.. but tbh i cant see that as a feasable prospect if any noise & additional running costs, let alone building it). So its a bit if a catch22. Warmth is paramount, so it seems I have to just live with the very bad condensation thing, if I cant adjust the frames, if that still is relevant. Anyway will do humidity, temp tests 1st & last thing tonight. Thanks zh

No I can see now why injecting foam might cause problems, if seeps in via even a tiny hole against the glass section you'd never get em out. But I mean polystyrene.. cheapest material, 4x shaped long bits you'd just fix through = a fantastically well insulated frame in comparison. Im surprised the option isn't there. The 50mm poly on my hatch top you see seems remarkably good insulation to me. Anyway I dont think its anything in this area I can change, just weak cold ingress spots to live with- a bit of a shame after so much effort but my fault for choosing cheapest frames, altho I wasn't given any choice when I asked for 'white upvc'. Thx

Its only half time Gav. Oranges. Do they still do oranges for half time? do premier league player have oranges?

Hi Peter- that's a useful suggestion. I think I tried some of these, in my main room when I moved in.. paranoid about my Lp's inners & sleeves wibbling due to the climate, obviously I don't get much heat in main room so can't be my huff. And they got used up so quick it was an impossible battle. I think crystals I recall. I also used a dehumidifier for a while.. but was extracting so much water from the air, again it was a hopeless battle. I do seem to notice it worst when the room temp is higher.. which is opposite to what you say, but I could be wrong & it's just when the outside is colder. I can't understand why these frames don't have insulation in, I mean its a piffling volume compared to a wall, but have air in as I think they were described as having, by way of some insulation in-? (yet another thing I can't understand as surely not perfectly sealed, therefore the air likely just cold outside air, which I cant see as being insulative, & I can only visualise as being the very opposite.. which seems to concur with what I'm finding/ where condensation is). thanks zH

Cheese in a tube? What the cheese about (+ where me huff go) = Where'd the cheese go.. zoot tooter-schmoot.

No that makes more sense, i get the gist after that diagram cheers. But if noisy at night.. & if it just runs 24/7 then im in a worse heap of sh* te. Looking at big window in this new bedroom, pools of water on the sill, same very bad condensation patches twds edges of panes too.. suggests PeterS idea of crap frames, seems to ring true as to cause. So if better frames, then i wouldnt see this condensation. Then mvhr wouldnt have been suggested. But just cos my frames are better surely doesnt mean my huff is any less.. so where me huff go? zh

Ok thanks Onoff- very kind of you.

Thanks for explanation of mvhr. Christ im never gonna understand this so its not an option, had no idea my mould would elicit complicated system suggestions as remedy. Ive had enough of complicated systems. So I have to put up with it is is then, but isnt it like PeterS hints to, poor avenue for cold to be entering? I had thought this was all it signified tbh. I was just wondering why after a fairly thorough internal build i did with all the help, such a weak point/ cold avenue could be. Maybe like Peter says its just due to cheap frames.. they are the cheapest I could go for, build all on a budget etc. I had no idea mvhr or any 'system' would be mentioned instead of 'cold bridging' paths.. & rather thrown me into yet more confusion as a result. So best i not ask anymore on it! Thanks tho. Zh

It is. At pg 100 fk it im jumping. My mistake of build, is having doors open out. So now income is ruined by covid ,and brexit, i cant put in a cheap juliet balcony now my budgets crashed & get it signed off by PeterW. Gotta be sizeable timber job. But doable if i can build my cabin base, surely, but not looking fwd to it. Be ace once done tho, views are terrific.

But as its freezing out, last thing i want is fresh air.. especially if ive spent 6 hrs trying desperately to get the room warm. Even opening/ closing door to next room i do fast to keep heat in. This ventilation thing another facet i cant understand. Ive spent alot of effort to seal the room airtight, foil tape etc, only for the advice then to be to have a vent in the window upvc frame.. the very opposite of sealing the room. Anyway.. i was just wondering if the mould was cold bridging, therefore i must have inadequately built it, somehow.

In fact its equally the same in all rooms.. but I wasnt expecting it in here, bc i thought it was cold bridging responsible, not my germs & mucus ( btw got your rad key to send back). One side of french doors alot worse than other too. Its like my student days.

@Onoff but this the new extention, not old house. Got like this in just a few months since me building it.

Like my electricity provider Co/ Green Energy just has then.. Ive got a significant black mould & condensation thing happening at french doors..

Diy 365.

@Onoff no I'm not painting door.. leaving as is it'll darken in time. But i am painting the plant ons of course.. so I set these back 1 mm?

Hang on.. so Im not getting the BH cup? He cant bring over a thread from another forum. bloody cheat. I didnt know BH was only 5 yrs old?! Ive moved into this cttg 4.5 yrs ago.. seemed like site had been going for maybe a good decade or so I thought, jumping onboard i think 3 yrs ago or so.

No my orig doors aren't haunched. Haunching looks like the biggest pain in the butt.. but that's an impressive door, especially from scrap! Ok understand my plant ons best follow the door contour. Thx.

I don't suppose Onoff has a clue about my plant on question.. anyway need bloomin nails for them now. lost heads best? Got a really good fit of my latch on the catch, snug & tight onto the temp stopper behind, pleased, right faff to do this.

Tbh with respect I don't think that has been established as such. Weather compensation is back in effect, afaik, once id found the thermostat setting.. & rads are hotter: so its back as it was before, just with two changes: upping heat curve, and ' unchecking' this noise reduction weird damn setting, 'letting handbrake off fully' being a way I can think might describe it now. So it seems likely it must be one, or both of these thats done the trick. The irony of any 'noise reduction' mode hardly lost on me!!

Im of the thinking the default settings, like heat curve 0.8, are set for ufh rather than rads.. & they just couldn't be bothered to set it up optimally. Tbh I wasn't expecting them to though (which they would have if i was a direct customer of theirs Im totally sure, in normal situations) due to it being on a grant, foc etc. Yes they - ought- to have ideally, in normal circumstances i agree. I think you're just asking too much of them to expect this level of tuned set up, within the situation I was fortunate to be in.

Done exactly this, not on the diagonal braces but the 3 ledges. Copied my orig C1830 kitchen door's ledges. I'll do a closer pic later. Onoff whilst your there.. One irregular ditty to think of before i nail on plant ons: my latch/ handle side of door has a bit of a warp, 5 mm only, but if i were to set my 3 x plant on strips perfectly 20 mm door depth ( plus your 1mm OCD paint allowance!) all around.. the top of the door would sit 5 mm off the plant on, & the middle of door correctly sitting on it. So my thinking is - follow - the slightly irregular door warp profile & add plant ons accordingly.. so it'll sit perfectly onto them, resulting in it closing a little proud of the frame, on the face side top rhs but hey so what. Is this is preferable to fixing plant ons perfectly @ 21 mm depth, all round.. & having an annoying gap between door and plant-on due to the warp? Or do i sort of set the latch hook plate in a bit, & sort of squeeze the door closed/ forcing the door a little each time closed.

Understood, but if i just want all available heat i can from the rad, if not all the rads, I think I can do away with the expense of installing many of these. Even 1. I understand if a trv is put in thermostat room its daft as it'll fight the main thermostat.. so that's one i defo dont need. But it gets a bit complicated with one vs another. Ok, so I have two of these valves then. At the mo Im turning one side down to half. Will this knock the rad heat down to half? Or, do I need to turn -both- down to half to achieve this?