haythorn_1

Looks like this if it helps.

I’m not sure how concrete lintels would work, can you get them made to the shape of the bay? my bay design doesn’t have the brick pillars that you sometimes see, which I guess you could then use normal straight lintels.

I have 2 double height splayed bay windows that I will need to install 4 lintels. Wall construction is brick and block with 150mm cavity. Is there any suggestion on the best lintel to use? I see catnic and others can make a custom lintel to order with posts, but they seem quite expensive. There's a house being renovated on my street currently that has just used a steel plate cut to the shape, with no posts. Seems much simpler although I imagine is a significant thermal bridge.

Thanks @MikeSharp01 & @Novice Becky. Seems like the quote I have is reasonable. Realised that it specifies mastic on the outside rather than compriband so need to change that. Anyone have any thoughts on whether the industrial cling film is necessary? It’s £800 which seems like a lot to me!

Ah that’s a shame. Won’t do extensions either? I think we will end up with only 1 window being replaced in the old house then 14 in new openings in the extension.

It’s an extension and renovation. So windows into new openings in the extension then a couple of replacement windows in the old building.

On the border of Surrey and Berkshire

Fair enough. Do you have any other installers I could try to get a comparative quote from? Would prefer to have more than one and also one that’s recommended.

Resurrecting an old thread but I am similarly looking for an installer for triple glazed windows that are supply only. i have one quote for installation which is £4.8k. This is for fitting 44 m2 of Windows, the sills and cling filming them (not sure if this is necessary?) no idea if this is good value or not, seems a lot to me! @Novice Becky who did you use in the end? @craig would you share your recommendation?

Thanks all. Interesting as I thought the resounding view would be to remove it. i think I will wait to see how easy it is to excavate below. Ours is a u-shaped staircase with 3 flights (if that makes sense). It has 4 posts which I pretty sure are supporting it on the ground.

Although was just having a quick look on stairbox and a replacement staircase is ~£800. So not terrible.

And then leave the props in when pouring the concrete? So they are cast in place? I did wonder whether I could support it from above.

As part of a renovation I am going to dig out the old concrete slab of my house so I can replace it with a new build up of insulation and concrete. The area to dig out includes a staircase so I have been debating whether it is worth removing it so I can completely dig out under it or do I just excavate as best I can around it. If I leave it in place then there will certainly be a couple of cold bridges. Clearly the optimum way would be to remove it but is it worth the cost of replacing the staircase?

Wow, good to know. Thanks!

Makes sense. I guess the only draw back is you cannot circulate water through the UFH without the heat pump being on. I have read some do this to distribute water that has been heated by sun in exposed rooms.

Where do you have the pump in this setup?

@sharpener was that including installing the 6 new radiators you mentioned

To humour myself I did go back and ask for a break down, here’s the response Heat pump £4,311 Parts and Fittings £5,510 – new 28mm runs of pipe to connect heat pump and hot water cylinder, pipe fittings, heat pump controller, feet, flexible hoses, external weatherproof insulation, Homely smart thermostat (more here Homely: The smart controller of choice designed for heat pumps (homelyenergy.com)), purpose built base for heat pump, electrical cable, isolators, new small fuseboard, waste collection. Installation £4225 – 15 man days for the works, this is our typical install time. They have offered a call but it’s so far off being reasonable I’m not sure I can be bothered.

How do you run it with no zoning? Do you take it off the same manifold as the UFH? Or just have a separate manifold with no actuators?

I presume this was Alto? How was your experience with their heat loss assessment as the initial indication I have had is quite high. The heat loss is double what I have calculated using the forum spreadsheet.

On the heat pump selection I would give them the benefit of the doubt as I just provided basic information to have an initial quote. But ignoring that the other elements seem insane. Is basically £10k for installation with the parts required. All they need to do is site the ASHP and cyclinder, connect them together and then join to the UFH and DHW. More just sharing to show how much these companies rip you off. This was the best rated in our area.

I had the initial quote back from my local MCS installer (before they've done a survey). I am doing an extension and refurb so will be installing UFH as part of that, so this should be a relatively simple install with no emitter upgrades. This is the quote I got back Insane! Now I see why everyones suggests to not go down the BUS route, but just seems wrong to me.

Bizarre, what happens if the ASHP malfunctions? Maybe they should factor installing 2 for this scenario.

What did you use for the floor gulley. I’m having a concrete slab floor and I’m unsure what best to put in it. Do you have a trap to prevent foul air?

Which bits would you say this is? p.s thanks for feedback so far - it’s very useful