Beau

As hinted at get the base units bang on level. The worktop fitting in the captive part of the U is a PITA so know your limits as to what you can do yourself. A cheap well fitted kitchen will look better than an expensive poorly fitted one.

Thanks Both Yes I was presuming I shouldn't have floorboards underneath but if I overtopped them with nod's suggested 12mm cement board would that be considered OK? I have just come across this board that does sound like it might do the job in one https://nomoreply.co.uk/tongue-and-groove-floorboards/. Anyone any experience with it?

Hi all. As part of my ongoing project of renovating an old farmhouse I'm just about to add an ensuite bathroom to a decent sized bedroom. The current floor has floorboards. I dont want the boards continuing under the stud wall I will be building and want a good base to potentially tile onto. Last time I did an upstairs bathroom I used 18mm T&G ply but I think this is now frowned upon. Whats the recommended materials for this sort of work now? We have not yet made a decision of floor covering but dont want to rule out tiles. Picture of the floor boards in which hopefully you can make the lines were I'm intending to build the stud wall Thanks

I looked at extending our PV with the Cornish Rocker system. I realised how little was to be gained from the tilting but key clamp seemed to be the way to go for fixed or tilting. Our old ground mount is just on a treated wooden frame

I've messed about with making sound dampening enclosures in the past but inside The usual 3 options Containment. Clearly not a great option for the heat pump Absorption. In the case of my project this required acoustic rockwool which is much denser. Again not easy in that space Diffraction. This is breaking up the sound waves. The ivy on that hedge is probably doing that pretty well plus probably some absorption. Could you grow a creeper up the wall of the outside shed and fence?

Lower is still better. We have a GSHP in an open plan barn here and the flow temp in the UFH does not need to get above 30C to keep the place warm in all but exceptional conditions. What are the mixer valves doing? It's a terrible waste to have the heat pump make overly hot water to then have it mixed with cold. Just lower the flow temp and not have it mixed if thats an option As other have said WC is an absolute must for good efficiency. Both our systems use it and keep the places at very consistent temps with no influence from internal thermostats.

This is what jumps out at me. By not using the rads the UFH has more work to do so the flow temp through it has to be higher lowering your COP. The most efficient systems I read about have everything open so lots of water running at low temp to heat the place. Oh and welcome to the forum 🙂

Having only had wooden windows in the past and just got some PVC I would now choose PVC. I am sick of the maintenance wood requires. If budget was endless then wood as I could just replace them as and when they rot out. Ali clad wood sounds nice but just so expensive. A friend went for expensive Ali windows and was assured they wouldn't get condensate on them but unsurprisingly they do.

I always dilute the mist coat nearer 50/50 as recommend by an experienced builder friend as the plaster takes it in better. Did our first place near 20 years ago and no peeling of the paint to date

PWS readings. Outside RH 94% 0.8C Got a couple of monitors that read the same when in the same room. Kitchen 20C 47%RH Utility 18C 35%RH

Not really a stove but it does burn logs. My home made charcoal retort with the lid up. Had one of these up to 900C which was a tad exciting!

I saw this firm https://www.cornishmasonrystoves.com/about-us selling custom masonry stoves at the Royal Cornwall show a few years back.

I'm also a fan of the PU glues after discovering them during a boat build. I always used Balcotan but sadly thats no longer available. The closest I've got to it is this https://www.tcfixings.co.uk/product/soudal-pro-40p-15-min-pu-d4-wood-glue-750gm/2752. They do a faster and slower setting versions depending on your needs. Worth saying that even though it expands into gaps it's not very strong when gap filling. PVA is a good glue type and easy to clean off with warm water but I like the lack of 'grab' you get with PUs giving you more time to get complicated pieces together. For ultimate strength you cant really beat an Epoxy like West System but it's expensive stuff. I'm racking my brain as to what glue I used on our stairs that have remained silent over the years. If it comes back to me I will share

We've recently had an Arotherm installed. It's a very straightforward system and the only circulation pump is the one in the heat pump. I did't get very involved but there is a pressure release valve and as you say an expansion vessel. All boxed in now so cant take pictures to help more.

We farm and have a loader. No official training and lorries never ask me about qualifications when I'm unloading deliveries. With farming you get to use equipment a lot so you do get good with the kit which may be harder if your only using the equipment occasionally