Beau

We had an anhydrite liquid screed and tiled straight on to it. I did have to grind the top and prime it but no decoupling membrane which sounds weird as surly you need the tiles bonded to the floor anyway

This is how I've narrowed down the disposable masks to use. I make charcoal as well and charcoal dust creeping inside a mask is very easy to spot

I either use the 3M Aura with valve or the Mouldex ones which are more pricey but hold their shape better. What matters most is that whatever you buy fits you. We all have different shaped faces so no point having the best filter system only to have all the air get in around the side. Been taking down lath and plaster ceilings recently and both these masks were up to job for me

Thanks. I will try and dig out the details

Not at all. I was very familiar with our old GSHP but haven't really got my head around this ASHP and its controls There are two controllers. One is now built into a cupboard as I was told I wouldn't need to touch it once up and running and the other does have an installer level section but I cant see anything about flow rates on it.

It's built into the heat pump. According to the specs flow rates go from 540-1205 l/h. My gut feeling listening to it is it operates at one or the other and doesn't modulate between the two.

I suspect your right but not sure what to do about it. This morning I came down and it was just audible like say a gas boiler in a neighbouring room. Now it's just stepped up more like I am in the room with a boiler even though is not cold outside and flow temps are low. Sometimes when its cold you get a two noises one is just rushing water in pipes but there is a second like a distant car is coming up our quiet country road but never gets here. I think the second noise is the heat pump running getting carried through the pipes. It's interesting that others say their systems are near silent as I had just put it down to the ASHPs needing high flow rates but maybe this is not the case. I did mention it early on to the installer but they just shrugged as though it was normal. On the water noise in the pipes I dont think I saw them deburr inside any of the pipes it was just pipe cutter then clamp. Could the burrs be causing turbulence and in turn the noise of rushing water?

We live on Dartmoor. It's around 11C outside and been gusting 55 kmh. The house is only part renovated and we get poor solar gain due to having just two south facing windows and are very shaded from the east.

Thanks SteamyTea Right now flow temp is down at 25c for an inside temp of 18C but the rads are still noisy. Its set up to only run from weather comp. Highest flow I have seen is 38C but I dont check it very often and dont yet have an app to easily see whats happening. No idea what the flow rates are as not sure where to find that info

We have the Vaillant aroTHERM plus 7kW. Its not bad but a bit noisy when working hard. Also get an annoying resonance at times. If I press against the case it stops but haven't yet been able to trace the cause. The sound of the water flowing around the rads is quite intrusive especially on the first few rads in the system. I say all this but having gone from no heating system it was always going to be different and we live remotely so dont have any background noise to mask the noise the system makes.

We installed the BSK Zepher in utility/bathroom. Cant honestly say I can tell the difference in room temp between MVHR mode and continues extraction mode. Just going to instal the Greenwood DMEV units in the other places we were going to use DMVHRs and use the saved money on a bit of extra juice to run the heat pump.

I cant see that lowering your floor temp to say 15C is going to make much difference to the air temp

I've just got sent some colour samples from a microcement supplier. Been using them as coasters and they have proved hot coffee cup proof so far 😄

I might look at setting the tray in under the backer board a bit. I recently installed a tray relying on the tiles for the overhand but trays are not always perfectly straight and true so it was a bit marginal. I added a shower sealing kit which has a tape which you bond to the backer and tray to get a good seal. Even that was a pain as the provided seal/glue didn't stick to the tray well. I used Jackoboard but will be going back to MS plasterboard and relying on the sealing kit to keep things dry for the next one.

I'm surprised a hot cup damaged the resin but I know many epoxy resins dont really like heat. I made an engineered wooden worktop for our kitchen but didn't use epoxy for the section around the hob for this exact reason. Such a shame as you have done an amazing job.