Beau

I'm no structural engineer but it looks fine to me. Taking that much out of the middle of the stringer would be a different matter As it's turned into share a picture of your home made stairs these are mine and are made of maple and cherry built around a central steel box

I've just laid a Mira Flight tray with some OB1 and needed a 2mm packer under one corner. I went for blobs at the the nodes and all around the edge to make sure the OB1 was thick enough to bridge any gaps. On ours the edge protrudes down around 2mm-3mm more than the rest of the tray so if going for a continuous bead you will need a lot CT1/OB1. I went through 2 tubes with just a 2mm packer and blobs.

35mm is very big for any masonry bit. I would look for a cheap diamond core drill bit and set up a simple guide on the wall so its guided down the right line at the start. Normally you wouldn't need a guide but as you are just enlarging an existing hole I think it would be necessary

Just cut tight. As you say wood does not expand and shrink much along it's length

Sounds perfect. Think the range for fall is 1 in 40 max, 1 in 110 min so your right in the middle

Some more options on fixed angles would be nice but as was pointed out I could of used some of the other angles available in the brown 110mm. I think in this case the problem is me being an amateur. A pro would have know what components were available. I have now found an ideal coupler to solve my problem. Also I have chosen not to use variable angle systems when they are probably fine so my cautiousness has hindered progress I'm going to have this on the back of the pan and then a 45 degree onto the 110mm waste. https://www.monsterplumb.co.uk/mcalpine-wc-con7-14-degree-angle-rigid-pan-connector-110mm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=22385443807&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22375516008&gbraid=0AAAAADRbF0WMYsYZoKrYUagiN7GtkSFsm&gclid=Cj0KCQjwu7TCBhCYARIsAM_S3NgL8Y7mX1v5wu0edW-hPP_yfKCogYm_unyvPoeFMxfveUBoTGU-n0EaAum2EALw_wcB

No just one pump and thats in the ASHP and its my understanding it controls the speed and I cant adjust it. The ASHP system is in the farmhouse and only has rads. All rads were installed with the ASHP so hopefully sized right. It's only the first few rads in the system that are noisy. I've seen several mentions of this problem in various places and I thought it happens because low temp rad systems need to have high flow rates. I've experimented with lockshield adjustment but the only way to make them quiet is to turn them off.

I'm just sharing my experience with both In my limited experience the noise from our ASHP system is worse than our GSHP system.

I was referring to the GSHPs circulation pumps

It's all internal in a utility room except the ground loops. It's an IVT Greenline C6 I guess it does make a noise but its the noise of a circulation pump which seems to sort of blend in. The ASHP varies a lot but is a bit intrusive if you are outside when its working hard. Mind you most of us will not be outside on a cold winters day haha. Also its sized more for when our place is finished so is working harder than it will need to when I'm done. We also get a noise from the water running through the rads which we never had with the GSHP combined with UFH. It maybe a design issue but its quite an obvious noise

We have had a GSHP in our barn for 18 years with UFH and have just installed an ASHP in the farmhouse. The GSHP is much quieter for sure but the ASHP is not especially noisy but quite noticeable in our quiet rural location when it's working hard (Vaillant Arotherm 7). The farmhouse is only part insulated, has EWI, yet to receive loft insulation, no floor insulation, rads, and in spite of these things the ASHP has managed to heat it at a COP of over 4 since installation last autumn according to its stats. No problems keeping it warm thats for sure. A new build with all its insulation should be a doddle to heat with an ASHP

I didn't know that. Every days a school day as they say Many thanks

Thanks Nick Yes, that's probably my only easy option. I did presume they were OK to cut down in length but dont want to mess with parts until I'm committed to a plan of attack. The 90 in the second picture is on 90mm pipe. Do you think it would be better to use that or swop to 110mm as soon as I'm through the Gerberit frame? I wondered if the extra flow through the smaller pipe so close to the pan might be beneficial at preventing blockages

Thanks for the suggestions. Just as I thought I had a plan I discovered that any fitting for 110mm pipe won't fit through the Gerberit Duo frame. It comes with a 90 and a straight connectors but seems angles are not an option. Probably going back to plan A and get the 110mm soil pipe parallel-ish with the wall and have a straight connector out the pan (which fits the frame) going to a 90 onto the 110 soil pipe. Hopefully there is enough wiggle room in all the those joints to line thing up properly. Picture attached "I think rats are a consideration if this is ground or basement level though." Thanks for the warning. Its a working farm with loads of hollows in the rubble filled walls. There is a risk of rodents so a flexible connector now has an extra black mark by it haha Nothing's ever easy is it!

I'm putting in a new WC. I've drilled nearly a meter through the wall to get the 110mm waste out in the right place outside so I really don't want to move the soil pipe. It's a wall hung WC and we would like the stud It's mounted on to be around the line of the yellow level but it can go back or forwards a bit and the pan approximately where the hawk is. What I'm undecided on is how best to do the waste. My original plan was to have a 45 to get it to run parallel with the back wall and then a 90 to go to the back of the pan. Then I thought why not just have a 45 pan connector straight onto the pipe in the picture but I don't think I would have enough flexibility in a single joint as the natural angle is nearer 55 degrees. I'm presuming flexible connectors are just asking for trouble? What do you think?