Ando

I can relate to this - currently suffering from paralysis by analysis I think 😂 Good luck with it all!

Thanks. There’s no hatch but space to easily make one. So once into that space to insulate is it a case of following the same principals for how you would insulate loft space and suspended timber floors? Vapour control layers / insulation / breathable membrane etc? Does the sloped section inside the bedroom all need striped and redone also? And I’m assuming the ceiling under flat roof part is a bit more complex? Apologies for the rookie questions - trying to get my head round so many different aspects of this stuff!

Hello again - looking for some guidance for how best to go about insulating the front part of our living room that has the sloped roof above it. Is it a case of striping the plasterboard ceiling from inside and then using rigid insulation boards (PIR etc)? The next question is how to tackle insulating the dormer window - which is our bedroom? Fairly certain all currently uninsulated. Will be getting tradesman in to do this work - but would be great to have an idea of what to ask for in advance of speaking to them. The living room ceiling is priority despite our growing list of jobs around house as had water leaking in from a dodgy roof tile midweek during torrential rain - so aiming to sort both at same time. Any advice greatly appreciated!

Have taken your comments on board - very helpful. Going to take some time on this decision. This is photo of one side of the room in question- the other side with staircase coming through is in a similar state. Do you think it would be worthwhile in the meantime to strip floor area and re insulate until I make final decision? The other side is almost fully floored - which I find a bit strange - also concerned as to what mess is lurking underneath.

@PeterW It has a Velux window (seal has gone and needs replaced) and another smaller window in it - I think from that point of view it meets regs. I think I’m still swinging towards ripping it all out - a lot of the crawl space has been floored (no idea why) wouldn’t be surprised if there’s some nasty surprises under there

I have no idea, I didn’t have time to further investigate - will take a deeper look next week. Just wondered if this is common occurrence etc..

When looking in my eaves earlier regarding another post I have made - I found this! Any ideas what has caused this? I’m assuming wind will have something to do with it?

Within our 60’s / 70’s build is a converted loft space on the 3rd Floor. It was converted a long time ago and no planning permission / building regs were followed. To get to it is via a narrow wooden staircase from one of our main bedrooms. Leads to small storage area with bedroom to left and attic (uninsulated) to the right where HW cylinder is. When it’s cold in winter, with the staircase coming into one of our bedrooms it makes that room pretty much unusable it gets so cold - not to mention the heat loss etc. we will be suffering. My initial idea was to remove this staircase and add one above our main staircase in hallway to access the area - add fire doors etc and get all insulation up to scratch. Obviously be quite expensive for extra space we don’t really need - but would add value etc. I have just gone into the eaves through the hatches in each room and the insulation currently there is in a bad way. It’s very patchy with a lot of it black in colour which can’t be good. I’m now thinking that striping everything out and returning it all to a large cold roof space with proper insulation is the way to go - thinking if we ever wanted to make use of space in future we could start from scratch and do it properly. Am I mad to be thinking of doing this or should I be trying to keep it in place and sort the insulation out? My family have placed a large seed of doubt in my head!

Thanks for the replies. I have started working on calculating house heat loss - will likely have questions on other threads on this. Am I right in thinking that to future proof for a heat pump - bigger pipe work is required (22mm as opposed to current 15mm in house)? As well as oversized radiators etc.. Re running the pipe work above the flooring - I hadn’t considered that as an option, always just assumed under the floor was the only option. Is this a case of running them along next to skirting boards / drilling holes through walls etc..

Greetings - I have lurked here for next part of a year, apart from couple questions - so here is introduction. Moved into a 4 bed detached 1960’s ish build about a year ago knowing that it requires a fair bit of TLC, and have spent the last year getting used to the house and thinking about how best to spend our budget. Read a lot of the threads on here - lots of very great stuff. First up for renovation is to lift most floorboards on ground floor and insulate between suspended floor joists. I’m hoping this makes a big difference to the house. One question I have - as a bit of a reality check - should I take opportunity to replace all radiators / pipe work while floor is up prior to insulation going down? Our current heating system is far from efficient - but boiler is only a few years old - my thinking is once properly insulted under the floor - replacing pipes in a few years time would be a nightmare? Sometimes feel as if I’m losing my marbles - have other crazy ideas for the house which I will post about when time comes. Thanks in advance - and to all folk responsible for threads that have got me this far.

Turned boiler up for todays hot water and had timer on for only 30 mins - did the trick. Shower nice and hot this morning and again this afternoon. My understanding following a long day of searching this forum / googling / you tubing yesterday is as you say high setting on boiler for efficient HW heating. But the opposite for the central heating system - a low setting for lower flow temp to avoid cycling (literally the only way I have ever used central heating previously). I don’t think my boiler is compatible with the clever systems that allow HW priority / load bearing / weather monitoring etc.. so need to now try figure out if any savings from that technology make it worthwhile to replace the boiler with one that is compatible.

The temp coming out the tap is 47. I have no idea what it should be. The boiler flow temp is set to 74 so shouldn’t be a problem there. The max it can be set to is 82.

60 degrees

Hello, I’m trying to get my head around the boiler / HW set up in house (moved in at turn of year) prior to the price increase. When we moved in an issue with the mains fed shower was that the temp could never be altered - it was hot enough to shower in but couldn’t cool down or heat up - the dial made no difference on the shower itself. The flow on this shower is high - it’s v powerful. A plumber came out and I thought he had fixed issue - however it turned out all that had happened was the electric immersion switch had been left on. This led to roasting hot water 24/7, the temp dial on shower was working as it should, and a large electrical bill. Since turning that off and using timer for hot water to come on / off from boiler - I can never seem to get the water to the level it was through the electrical immersion. I can get the shower hot, but the dial to vary temp has minimal impact. Have now delved into instruction manuals for the boiler and HW tank but a little lost and have no idea what optimal settings should be for my usage (2 x morning showers, 2 x evening showers and a bath daily). Thought I would post here prior to getting plumber out this week, and tips / advice greatly appreciated. Have attached some photos of HW tank / boiler / boiler settings from manual etc. I’m also interested to know what the small tank on wall is next to HW one and also the thing up above it all near the eaves.

Thanks for replies. Ponneghaus use Blum fittings so a plus for them - will ask them about the carcasses when I next see them. I asked Nolte salesman for more info about the laminate worktop today and all he told me was it's 'German laminate the same as in the showroom' - can't see me going with them as guy is grating on me now. The current kitchen in house is 20 years old and still in fantastic shape (Leicht branded) - I might have to resign myself to fact that we should spend a little more than initially planned.