JohnBishop

I live in the countryside but you are right after all those years since the building was erected the trees are taller. The closest tree is about 2-3m higher than the nearby buildings. The closest tree is about ~16m away from the chimney. This OH cowl is very clever. I have not seen these in the area. I found one in here https://www.chimneycowlproducts.co.uk/acatalog/Stainless-Steel-Traditional-OH-Cowl-221.html The also sell as a flexible flue fixing kit for extra £40. I reckon the liner is going to be about 8m long. In terms of the use the plan is to use it occasionally not as a regular background heat. For the fuel I only considered wood. Yes I reach out to Hetas registered installers.

Thank you gents. That was very informative.

My stairs are located in the centre but I also have 6 feet high fridge in that space. I could still use the space above and drill direct below the stairs what would be central location to run the cables in each direction. I just need to run the Internet coaxcial to that location. Thanks

Hi All, The wooden decking floor is still exposed before I put the wooden underlay for the laminate flooring. It is the best moment to think how to run the cables. I don't really want to damage the walls even the plaster boards. I won't be installing network sockets, just run the network cables to each room, either conceal them for the time being and commission only those that I need but I also want to future proof it so lay twice as many cables. I have counted 6 will go upstairs and 6 on the ground level, 1 or 2 of the ground level ones will go to the backyard for a wired connection in the middle of the garden and one to the very end of the garden where the future workshop / shed will be. But my main question is what is the best way to run them from downstairs to upstairs and to conceal these 6 cables. Should I drill in the hall directly above the shelf where the network equipment is then run them under the wooden decking across as there is empty space otherwise get an oscillating saw and cut as much I need of the wooden skirting board and run them there? I think it's also better to run them under the door frames. All the videos about this topic I found on the internet are made by Americans with their wooden houses so the advise is not applicable to English non standard construction concrete house. I don't think I even need CAT6A as CAT6 can do 10Gbit up to 50 meters. At the same time I am not sure if I want to run any other cables. I am not a TV guy but anyone who buys the house in the future maybe would want to see the coaxial in each room or maybe HDMI. It's not a big house so probably an overkill but wired network would help reduce the need of a powerful Wifi network for devices that use a lot of bandwidth and can be wired. I was looking into intelligent home systems like 20 years ago, perhaps a lot have changed since then, I could also cater for that but only open standards not some proprietary so Amazon or some Chinese corporation knows what I do in the house. A lot of stuff I can see is wireless anyway, maybe this intelligent home stuff makes more sense in a bigger house and I pass the idea. All the proprietary closed stuff discourages me. Best

Hi All, I want to re-commission my chimney for the wood stove and I also plan some roof repairs so I wanted to do this all at once. I don't have the wood stove yet but the roofer told me I need to know the specification up front so they can install the correct liner for the wood stove. This is going to be an average size wood stove outside the chimney, not a built-in one. I reckon a flexible liner is enough but I have seen they install like ceramic or some other liners. What would you suggest in this matter?

This is a 90 yrs old building. Not sure how old is the concrete but I reckon DPM is not there. Not sure if there is a way of checking this.

can I use this 5mm wood fibre underlay directly onto the concrete? or should I put something else underneath it? By the way what thickness you go for? 8mm? I think 12mm is a bit overkill with the 5mm underlay. Let me know when you shop them as I am confused and can easily can get ripped of.

I think I go for wood laminate flooring and decent vinyl in the kitchen and perhaps bathroom. I see most laminate is 8mm thick, I can see some premium 12mm like Tegola. What do you think about this 3mm underlay for laminate or vinyl flooring? I reckon on wooden decking is OK, what about ground floor concrete? Is this safe to put and not get some weird moisture etc? https://www.carpetright.co.uk/underlay/timbershield-wood-and-laminate-underlay-3mm/ Or do you know any better option?

ok, I done a new campaign and there is some response. I think all the boys were on holiday abroad or something.

I have no other option but widen my search, I cannot rely on local roofers.

Someone suggested to use a cherry picker if the job can take a day or 2 but this would require a bigger unit to reach the chimney. I haven't spoken to the neighbour yet, not sure if he is affected by the leaks or ignoring them (retired but not disabled chap) I haven't even managed to get the roofer to come over and do their checks. These people are unreachable or so busy. I reckon there is more interest and money in doing whole roofs rather than going after repair jobs.

Hi, Have you tried to restore yellowish PVC windows with hydrogen peroxide or do you know any other / better methods? I was also looking into spraying the frames with paint but then I realized I need a compressor to paint it properly. I can paint doors with a roller no problem but I don't think roller is good on frames. I also realized that apart from white I cannot find a good colour to cover these frames as to my taste any darker colour isn't attractive. Best

Hi All, Do you know any good compatible aerator to this tap? As far as I looked none of the standard screw on sprinklers/aerators/showers work. In my case it's Brita Paini but I reckon any Brita compatible will do. I could not find anything definitive unless I go for these rubber ones but not sure if these are reliable do not leak on the top. Best

Do you mean to use the chisel?

The worktop is 40mm but the cupboard is in line and ads another 20mm. If I carve more from the cupboards it's going to disintegrate. As you say previously there were carved out squares for the clips but I don't have the tools to do it. The sink is bigger than the old one and I have already taken another 14mm. It's like a job for a carpenter not to destroy the cupboards completely.

Hi, I have these clips/brackets/clamps to attach the sink but the counter top and the cupboard is about 6cm thick so there is no way to use those. Are there any long clips that I can use? I have looked online but I cannot find anything definitive. My sink is Franke if it makes a difference. I will put silicone around the sink but this is not going to hold. Best

Thanks, will do.

Hi All, I was looking on the web for a good supplier of glass where I can order glass inserts into PVC windows. What website would you recommend or should I try from a local supplier? Thank you

yes you can, just make sure the used ones you're buying didn't have chemicals in it. Some high pressure clean IBC tanks before selling some other sell IBC tanks that had e.g. vinegar in them so you can clean yourself. So there is no problem with IBC tanks just make sure the supplier is reliable / trustworthy.

Yes, you're right, I reckon this would have to be done together with the neighbour. It could be it is not leaking on his side as the ridge tile on my side is facing N and the autumn/winter winds drive the rainwater where it shouldn't.

I agree with you looking at the chimney from distance is one thing and actually working on the chimney is a different story and I can quickly get overwhelmed once on the top. I haven't figured out yet how this could be done without a scaffolding. It would have to be some flat structure fastened to the roof or a scaffolding from the attic but this would require opening the roof anyway. You are right I have to get some quotes because maybe it's not that terrible and fixing it does not require demolishing everything. I was not able to identify if the hidden gutter is there as the gap between the wooden bit and the wall is too tight. But since they put these chunky ridge tiles I would think there is none.

The surveyor was correct listing two issues with: 1. the ridge on the part wall (install secret gutter) 2. the chimney (repointing chimney, fix pots and flashuibng etc.) but surveyor's pictures were out of focus so I could not see exactly what I see now. These leaks were most likely the reason the housing association decided to sell it as the job was too expensive in their regard. As I could fix No. 1 myself fixing No.2 - installing new pots and repointing a chimney seems difficult due to difficult access, as I have seen it requires 3 storey scaffolding that goes level to the chimney. I was thinking about running couple of ropes over the house for a harness to prevent falls on both sides but there is no good grip to work on the chimney unless I rope myself to the chimney. With this kind of jobs for a novice 1st of all you don't want to rush it (still down to weather) but with a harness it takes a lot longer. On the other hand if I install my own scaffolding and run my own safety ropes then I have more time to play with this stuff. Do the chimney first then install secret gutter but I don't want to remove tiles in case it is going to rain. There is no point doing No1 alone because the water gets into the chimney anyway and I don't think it's the problem with the flashings, I reckon a broken pot or mortar on the top. I am going to fly a drone to inspect it. Have to check the angle of the roof but I consider it steep.

I have managed to get into the attic and I think I see how the water seeps on the wall: https://ibb.co/4W5rn5m https://ibb.co/6FStDCD

I agree with you but where I live the water is like 350ppm very hard comparing to my previous location around 220. Skin feels hard after washing. In this case I would 50/50 with mains water to make it closer to 200ppm.

yes I can imagine that old 55" plasma being a beast, I have an old Samsung and this simply cannot fail and I bought it second hand, I think as old as your plasma.