JohnBishop

Hi, I was looking into gazebos but I see a lot of them are rubbish and I am not confident in the ones that are under £100. One DYI guy who seems to have a lot of money not to do DYI but he does it anyway I reckon to be famous was looking for a gazebo but then he was sent a workshop tent made by Clarke - not cheap. I reckon this Youtuber is part of the scheme to push products from Amazon, I can see many YouTubers doing that. I reckon Clarke even if it sounds English I reckon is made in China or made in China but packed in England. Looks solid but again to spend £250 just to have a rigid small tent is a bit too much to my liking. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cis788-motorcycle-shelter-shed-m/ I was fishing for a used heavy duty gazebos online but I cannot find anything and I don't trust any of these under £100 gazebos - I reckon any stronger wind will break them to pieces. Do you know of any good options in the range £100-200? This would be with side walls. The ones with "windows" are actually better as you want some daylight in regardless if it's just for storage or as a temporary workshop, I reckon Clarke blocks too much light. I want to offload some of the tools and other stuff to this tent before I erect a shed. I reckon next summer. I think I put plastic on the ground to stop moisture then pallets or other way round. Let me know.

from my measurement it looks like it is 4.3mm wide so I reckon I need like 5mm plug.

Exactly just trim the beading.

Hi, I have inherited this kitchen tap and the problem I have I don't know how to terminate this 3rd "filtered water" pipe. https://i.ibb.co/J3J8Rcf/brita-filter.jpg If I use a tap adapter/aerator then water leaks through it from the tap. Please advise.

Hi, I have these old wooden doors but their condition is very good actually. The only thing I don't like is this single and privacy glass. https://i.ibb.co/JFVBcd5/backdoor.jpg I want to swap it with a 28mm thick clear double gazing. I can see that it's deeper on the inside so somehow I have to take that wooden frame. Is it possible to do it without breaking it to pieces? This is solid wood and I reckon it's held by some thin nails I am having difficulty locating and maybe some wood glue as well to makes it harder. I want to also take it off to take measurements to order glass. Please advise.

In my case where my network equipment is going to be under the stairs (ground floor) central location so all the CAT6 cables will go in all directions so no need to worry about the ground and first floor. I just have to run the ISPs coaxial to that central location. I would also cater an extra cable upstairs for the future attic conversion. I like your idea of using different colours of cables, makes sense even for small deployments (the label is eventually got missing) I know you can order terminated cables in different colours for cheap but what about running them through holes, plugs won't fit. Where can I get CAT6 in different colours? The websites someone suggested here on the forum have only 2 colours.

I definitely want to make use of the empty space that is under the stairs and there is a lot of empty space there but I have to remove some of the plasterboarding. I think I need two different kinds of cables. for indoors: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CACAT6slash100.html external duct for outdoor https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4318440-cat6-unshielded-twisted-pair-utp-external-duct-black-box-of-305m

I live in the countryside but you are right after all those years since the building was erected the trees are taller. The closest tree is about 2-3m higher than the nearby buildings. The closest tree is about ~16m away from the chimney. This OH cowl is very clever. I have not seen these in the area. I found one in here https://www.chimneycowlproducts.co.uk/acatalog/Stainless-Steel-Traditional-OH-Cowl-221.html The also sell as a flexible flue fixing kit for extra £40. I reckon the liner is going to be about 8m long. In terms of the use the plan is to use it occasionally not as a regular background heat. For the fuel I only considered wood. Yes I reach out to Hetas registered installers.

Thank you gents. That was very informative.

My stairs are located in the centre but I also have 6 feet high fridge in that space. I could still use the space above and drill direct below the stairs what would be central location to run the cables in each direction. I just need to run the Internet coaxcial to that location. Thanks

Hi All, The wooden decking floor is still exposed before I put the wooden underlay for the laminate flooring. It is the best moment to think how to run the cables. I don't really want to damage the walls even the plaster boards. I won't be installing network sockets, just run the network cables to each room, either conceal them for the time being and commission only those that I need but I also want to future proof it so lay twice as many cables. I have counted 6 will go upstairs and 6 on the ground level, 1 or 2 of the ground level ones will go to the backyard for a wired connection in the middle of the garden and one to the very end of the garden where the future workshop / shed will be. But my main question is what is the best way to run them from downstairs to upstairs and to conceal these 6 cables. Should I drill in the hall directly above the shelf where the network equipment is then run them under the wooden decking across as there is empty space otherwise get an oscillating saw and cut as much I need of the wooden skirting board and run them there? I think it's also better to run them under the door frames. All the videos about this topic I found on the internet are made by Americans with their wooden houses so the advise is not applicable to English non standard construction concrete house. I don't think I even need CAT6A as CAT6 can do 10Gbit up to 50 meters. At the same time I am not sure if I want to run any other cables. I am not a TV guy but anyone who buys the house in the future maybe would want to see the coaxial in each room or maybe HDMI. It's not a big house so probably an overkill but wired network would help reduce the need of a powerful Wifi network for devices that use a lot of bandwidth and can be wired. I was looking into intelligent home systems like 20 years ago, perhaps a lot have changed since then, I could also cater for that but only open standards not some proprietary so Amazon or some Chinese corporation knows what I do in the house. A lot of stuff I can see is wireless anyway, maybe this intelligent home stuff makes more sense in a bigger house and I pass the idea. All the proprietary closed stuff discourages me. Best

Hi All, I want to re-commission my chimney for the wood stove and I also plan some roof repairs so I wanted to do this all at once. I don't have the wood stove yet but the roofer told me I need to know the specification up front so they can install the correct liner for the wood stove. This is going to be an average size wood stove outside the chimney, not a built-in one. I reckon a flexible liner is enough but I have seen they install like ceramic or some other liners. What would you suggest in this matter?

This is a 90 yrs old building. Not sure how old is the concrete but I reckon DPM is not there. Not sure if there is a way of checking this.

can I use this 5mm wood fibre underlay directly onto the concrete? or should I put something else underneath it? By the way what thickness you go for? 8mm? I think 12mm is a bit overkill with the 5mm underlay. Let me know when you shop them as I am confused and can easily can get ripped of.

I think I go for wood laminate flooring and decent vinyl in the kitchen and perhaps bathroom. I see most laminate is 8mm thick, I can see some premium 12mm like Tegola. What do you think about this 3mm underlay for laminate or vinyl flooring? I reckon on wooden decking is OK, what about ground floor concrete? Is this safe to put and not get some weird moisture etc? https://www.carpetright.co.uk/underlay/timbershield-wood-and-laminate-underlay-3mm/ Or do you know any better option?

ok, I done a new campaign and there is some response. I think all the boys were on holiday abroad or something.

I have no other option but widen my search, I cannot rely on local roofers.

Someone suggested to use a cherry picker if the job can take a day or 2 but this would require a bigger unit to reach the chimney. I haven't spoken to the neighbour yet, not sure if he is affected by the leaks or ignoring them (retired but not disabled chap) I haven't even managed to get the roofer to come over and do their checks. These people are unreachable or so busy. I reckon there is more interest and money in doing whole roofs rather than going after repair jobs.

Hi, Have you tried to restore yellowish PVC windows with hydrogen peroxide or do you know any other / better methods? I was also looking into spraying the frames with paint but then I realized I need a compressor to paint it properly. I can paint doors with a roller no problem but I don't think roller is good on frames. I also realized that apart from white I cannot find a good colour to cover these frames as to my taste any darker colour isn't attractive. Best

Hi All, Do you know any good compatible aerator to this tap? As far as I looked none of the standard screw on sprinklers/aerators/showers work. In my case it's Brita Paini but I reckon any Brita compatible will do. I could not find anything definitive unless I go for these rubber ones but not sure if these are reliable do not leak on the top. Best

Do you mean to use the chisel?

The worktop is 40mm but the cupboard is in line and ads another 20mm. If I carve more from the cupboards it's going to disintegrate. As you say previously there were carved out squares for the clips but I don't have the tools to do it. The sink is bigger than the old one and I have already taken another 14mm. It's like a job for a carpenter not to destroy the cupboards completely.

Hi, I have these clips/brackets/clamps to attach the sink but the counter top and the cupboard is about 6cm thick so there is no way to use those. Are there any long clips that I can use? I have looked online but I cannot find anything definitive. My sink is Franke if it makes a difference. I will put silicone around the sink but this is not going to hold. Best

Thanks, will do.

Hi All, I was looking on the web for a good supplier of glass where I can order glass inserts into PVC windows. What website would you recommend or should I try from a local supplier? Thank you