notreadyforthis

How are gaps in the flooring supposed to be finished around kitchen cabinets? The gaps are too small to be filled with thin wedges of the flooring wood itself so I’m assuming some sort of filler. What should my expectations be around how close the colour match will be or should I expect it to stand out a bit?

That’s right, no skirting attached yet. The templating chap has been and used his special laser camera contraption then also followed up with a measuring tape. Spent a good 1.5 hours measuring up even though it’s a small kitchen. I have checked with the supplier and they said they’ve factored in the gap. I guess I’ll find out when they come to do the fitting.

I put a level against the wall, it's definitely not straight. Do you know if they normally apply some sort of adhesive or filler to ensure the worktop and edge is stuck to the wall as well?

Noticed that the new plaster work along one of the walls isn't quite straight or flush against the wall. The plan is to have a mitred waterfall edge on that end of the cabinet run. Will that gap persist when the end panel of quartz gets added or will it most likely go away? I can't quite tell if the gap is being exaggerated because of the way the cabinet was fitted/designed. Do you all reckon that gap is within tolerance or is it going to be quite an obvious gap?

I've got a Siemens cooker hood which has a 150mm vent and it recommends a rigid venting system for optimum performance and reduced noise. I got what I thought would be a simple push fit elbow, pipe and external grille which do indeed fit together nicely. But none of it fits the cooker hood, they're all of the exact same diameter. What am I missing here, some sort of connector or coupler? I posted in another forum and they said I can't use spiral ducting for a domestic cooker hood as it's designed for industrial systems.

My builders are having a tough time finding a similar paving slab to replace ones that have been broken in my garden as part of our building works. Can anyone help with identifying what type and colour of slab paving I should be looking for? The picture doesn't really show it that well but after a good pressure wash they come out a light pink colour and will last throughout a summer then go grey over the winter as they get weathered. They measure 60 x 60 for the larger slabs.

I’ve had some Knauf 100mm acoustic roll fitted for insulation in between the floor joists in in the first floor of my house. For the first few sections the installer cut the roll so that it would fit between the joists. Then the later sections he didn’t cut them down to size and just squeezed them in. The guy said he cut the first few sections as the offcuts are used for the areas where a section of roll won’t go in easily where there’s a lot of pipes/cables. He made sure that any pipes and cabling were above the insulation That meant the insulation was compressed slightly in some sections. Are any of the points raised above an issue? Would be good to know as the carpenter is back in next week to put new plywoood down so if there’s a problem to be fixed, now would be the time to do it!

Thanks for the image. For our build, the internal ceiling is sloped to match the pitched roof angle and we have three Velux windows installed. The red squiggly line on your diagram doesn’t exist for our structure.

It’s entirely possible I have misunderstood what the builder was saying so I will go back to him to check on Monday. The comments above are helpful. I find that if I just say to the builder I don’t like something or I think something looks wrong without being able to go a bit further to say why then it doesn’t really go very far. The builder may suggest that we channel the waste water to the right of the window instead but it would mean an extra pipe down the right. The left side will have a pipe for the pitched roof so I thought it would be tidier to keep both pipes on the same side.

Thanks, I’ll be sure to get them back to sort it out.

Thanks, I have asked for them to come back to address it. Sorry, I meant the roofer had said moulding the lead around the tile is a cosmetic thing rather than the whole lead material being used is cosmetic.

Thanks. The builder said he checked this and confirmed it leads to a foul drain. I don’t know if the two are connected but I have a feeling my property or my part of the street doesn’t have a surface water drain as I get a rebate on my water bill for this.

Sorry for the shoddy sketch but the builder is planning to route kitchen waste water using a channel that is in front of the garage door. That channel is original to the property and has one of those metal coverings so it is partially exposed. I’m assuming this is to provide a barrier to catch water during heavy rain and stop it from flooding the garage? The waste water from the kitchen is just for the sink and dishwasher. Checking this with the builder he said the volume of water won’t overwhelm it. My concern would be the fact that it’s partially exposed as the waste water runs across the garage door. That channel used to get clogged up with leaves. Should this channel be used in the first place? If it is legit for use, should the open nature of it be sealed off to prevent leaves, etc. blocking it?

I’ve had a new pitched roof added to the side of the house and noticed that the leading wasn’t moulded to the shape of the tile. The roofer said this is a cosmetic thing and it doesn’t make any functional difference. I’m not fussed if its just cosmetic as no one will ever see the roof unless you climb up there. But wanted to check that it’s correct that there’s no functional difference. Is the point here that the roof is pitching downwards so water will never travel up into that gap?

Any chance you could elaborate further so I know what I need to call out?