Bosi
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Everything posted by Bosi
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Thank you very much, I will look into this. I took as well some pictures today and noticed that old pebbledash rendering is still on, below the ground soil level. So I guess this needs taking off too to reduce bridging, or?
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Hi. I wonder what would be best to use to waterproof the exterior wall below ground level. I have to dig up around almost all of the house for a cable and as we have permanently a problem with rising damp I thought it would be a good time to put a french drain pipe in and possibly tank the exterior wall as well. But I can not see which product would be best to use external and below ground. A lot of videos I found show a product like Everbuild Black Jack Damp Proof Membrane , whilst it says on the product description just above ground. And then is the Everbuild Febtank Super Tanking Slurry for example? What material would you use to waterproof the external wall please, costing not the world? And breathable I guess. Thank you for your help and ideas. Manfred
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Hi. We have a 1950 house which got several years ago cavity wall insulation. After a recent extension most of the ground floor has been filled with concrete flooring and underfloor heating, and the areas which still have wooden floorboards have each an air brick for ventilation. After the extension the builder blocked the air bricks to the concreted area as they where not necessary anymore to his opinion, especially with the existing cavity wall insulation The renderer now asked me why we don't have any ventilation for the cavity? So I start to wonder if we need air bricks for the insulated cavity area or not? Or should I put some drill weep vents in? Thank you for your help in advance. Greetings Manfred
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Hi. I'm looking for the most sensible hybrid inverter and was almost into the Solis 3.6kw hybrid inverter when I came across a YouTube video praising the givenergy hybrid inverter, especially with its automatic charging function of the battery at low cost times ( octopus) I wonder wich one you would recommend please and if not either of them which one and why. The battery system I'm still looking for too leaning towards the pylon system. Thank you for your help
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That is exactly what I want to reach, to run the UFH independently from the other radiators, so every radiator and the UFH can be turned of and on separately. So a UFH , maybe like the UH4 from Heatmiser might be a solution to reach this, right?
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Good Morning. I don't know about the cycling break, but I believe that he has connected it as it was shown in a manual. Which unfortunately makes the underfloor running every time any radiator will need heat. What do you mean by double edged-sword? Before the UFH the boiler was delivering the heat to single radiators as well when needed, just new is the UFH and I don't want this on when it is down warm enough but upstairs will need a bit more heat Happy with the UFH, as it keeps the heat very long, but don't need a sauna downstairs either :))) Thank you for your thoughts
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Hi. Thank you for your reply. I don't have a drawing, but I know that I could turn off the UFH by itself manually and the other radiators worked well, so it can be isolated. I can get a picture of the connection to the Tado control, but wonder if this is actually helpful? Especially as the electrician did not know the tado system so I believe he just connected it so it works in general. Is there someone who has a Tado system maybe too with an underfloor heating who can separate it. I would have thought that this is just a normal thing to do? Who wants his underfloor heating going on in Summer, just because the radiator in the shower need to go on? Thank you in advance for your help again.
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Good Morning. I have upstairs Radiators with Tado valves and downstairs 1 Radiator and a new UFH with just one zone. Recently I got installed an electric valve to the UFH and the smart connection fromTado. Although Tado states that I would need a wiredTado Thermostat for the UFH my electrician wired everything into the Tado Wireless receiver and replaced the Worcester Bosh control. When I now turn on the Tado Radiator valves it works as far as the heating turns on and off when needed, but they always turn on as well the UFH pump and switch, which I would hope would just turn on when requested via the Tado Temperature Sensor for the UFH ( which is now used wireless) I thought it would be possible to have the UFH pump and valve just on when I need the UFH? Could anyone direct me and my electrician in the right way possible? My electrician just sent me this morning the idea that he thinks it could work with a UFH4, a 4 pole relay with 2xNO&2xNC contacts? Thank you for your thoughts. Greetings Manni
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Hi. Thank you again for your thoughts. I noticed that I have forgot to mention what I already have: So currently I already own the Tado Wireless Starter Kit V3+ which comes with the Boiler control and one wireless Thermostat. In addition I have one wired smart Thermostat. I know that I need the wired Thermostat to control my underfloor heating. But what do I actually use the wireless Thermostat for? The radiators already have Tado valves. So is the wireless one useless, did I get the wrong box, or how can this be used? As far as I understand, the wireless one would fire up the boiler when necessary, but it can not control that for the UFH pump will go on, right? So with all other Radiators ( beside the Bathroom ) tado valves fitted it is kinda useless, or I use it in the Bathroom. Or do I understand this wrong? @PeterW You have mentioned that : you should have the stat control the valve and then the valve control the pump and the boiler. That means the boiler fires independently if UFH or Rads request heat. COuld you kindly explain this more plainly for me please? At the moment I understand that you suggest using the wired Tado Thermostat to control all 4 valves ( actuators ) = would you recommend any special and would I need a controller box for this? and the valve control ( which means the actuators ? ) the pump and the boiler ? How would they do it? I thought the Tado Thermostat is controlling the valves and pump ? Sorry I am not an expert in this, but I try to get it logical and then in action. Thank you for all your help Chers
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Thank you all for your feedback. My first intention was to go with a single Thermostat, but I got my doubts. @ProDave Do I get it right that you recommend the a motorised valve to avoid the problem which I have at the moment, which is that even when I turn of the pump and the heating is on, it gets hot water pumped through by the main boiler, of course less than with the pump on. I would like to have the freedom to turn the underfloor complete off when possible. I know you wrote that you don't know Tado, So I wonder in general if Tado can control the pump I have ( plus possible a new motorized valve ) I would like that Tado can communicate with the boiler when it needs heat, just like the radiator valves. @ PeterW, the Wunda self balancing actuators look very interesting. I will have this in mind, should I still need actuators. Thank you. @JohnMo, what do you mean by "single thermostat controlling pump". At the moment I have a grundfos pump. At the moment, even when I turn of the pump and the heating is on, it gets hot water pumped through by the main boiler, of course less than with the pump on, but I would like to have the freedom to turn the underfloor complete off when possible. I wonder if I need a wiring to the boiler in the loft by using the Tado wired smart thermostat downstairs, and the wireless smmart thermostat next to the boiler? I don't have the UHF yet, just read that some recommended it. Thank you again all for your support
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When possible I would appreciate a wiring explanation too please, and what you would recommend to install. At the moment I am looking at the heatmiser UH4 and the Danfoss 088H3220 230V NC. Our Worcester Bosh boiler is in the loft and the underfloor downstairs. Do I need wiring up to the boiler to control them, even when I use the tado wireless smart thermostat?
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Hi. I wonder if someone could help me to make the right decision please. We have a new underfloor system in an open space Livingroom / Kitchen in a L-shape. The builder put 2 zones in the kitchen are ( one end of the imaginable L-shape ), one zone in the middle where the main Livingroom area is and one zone at the other end of the L-Shape area, where the dining area is, plus it goes over in a nearby small utility / toilet. ( see image ) At the moment we use upstairs radiators tado valves, and we have bought but not installed yet a Tado Starter Kit Wireless Smart Thermostat, to control the Worcester Bosh boiler, and one wired Smart Thermostat for the underfloor heating. The whole space is not huge, maybe 8x4m one direction an 8 x3.4 m the other. I wonder how we can control it best via Tado and how many Tado wired Thermostats are useful, as I could just install them quite close together ( like around the corner with 1 m each from the corner ), maybe with new wiring one direct in the kitchen area and one in the Livingroom/dining room area Somehow it feels that max two Thermostats would make the most sense, and to turn the existing pump for the underfloor heating with those on or off in addition. ( At the moment we do not have any electrical actuators installed , just manual controlled) For example a heatmiser 4 zone with 4 actuators installed. Could I get each 2 Actuators controlled by 1 Tado wired smart Thermostat, I would like to turn the underfloor heating off when a max temp reached and/or over night incl. controlling the underfloor heating pump. Does this make sense or what are your thoughts please? Thank you in advance for your help.
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I wonder if anyone has solved this or has an idea?
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Hi. I have a new underfloor system which got 4 zones, although they are quite close and not really necessary to split. I wonder how I can control it best via Tado and or Alexa. I would like to turn the underfloor heating off when a max temp reached and/or over night. As I have 4 zones it looks like I would need 4 wired Tado Thermostats, which is crazy. Is there not a way to turn of for example the pump via Tado. or if not can I just turn of the pump with a smart socket using the thermostat temperature via Alexa for example? Thank you in advance for your thoughts
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Hi. I am looking for a freestanding Flueless Gas Fire. Can anyone recommend one which is reliable and not too expensive? Thank you in advance
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Thank you very much for your input. I have not heard about those and will make sure we will get these. Do you live at a busy road too? Just wonder how much street noise they can possible eliminate Cheers Manfred
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Hi. I live on a quite busy street and would like to install a MVHR unit in the void of a pitched roof which is facing the road. The ducting will be very short ( 1-2 m), taking it out from the Livingroom and supplying the air into the hallway, again with a very short ducting. Does anyone know about how much MVHR units would transfer the noise from outside maybe? I am looking currently at the following unit Blauberg KOMFORT EC D5B 180-E S14 Thank you in advance for your help and thoughts. Cheers Manfred
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So it looks like that there is no voice here for the MLV put in-between two acoustic plasterboard for a more slim solution ? If I add 50mm before the acoustic plasterboard, would you get 5cm knauf acoustic mineral wool or is the Fibrefon Micro 50mm Acoustic much better ( or is it rather for floorboards and house noise ) instead of road noise? And just to be sure. Will the resilient bars help with street noise, as it somehow feels that the noise is rather air borne?
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Most noise we get is from cars etc, not really vibrations from trucks, and of course loud exhaust from scooters etc. I believe it is rather airborne noise which we need to address. I made a bad choice with the 150mm celotex, but as you said it cost sweat and labour to put it in nicely, sound foaming even the smallest gaps. So it is a "damn" good heat insulated room, which is just loud ? Looking around and ripping out my last hears I think about to add MLV like this Advanced Acoustics Soundproofing Mat 3m by 1.25m by 2mm Thin - 5kg/m2 Mass Loaded Vinyl MLV 3.75sqm Per Roll. which I would sandwich between one 12.5 mm and one 15mm soundboard plasterboard. The teksound seems to be less effective given the same depth, or? This would costs me the least height, which we just gained by opening the ceiling. Or should I go rather for a 50mm dense acoustic mineral wool and two layers of acoustic plasterboard? Thank you for all your thoughts
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Well I wonder about the sound rails, but there is no floor above, it is just the roof, so will they do anything against airborne noise from the traffic? Somehow I understand that they are rather for ceilings between floors or a joint wall / similar?
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Hi and Thank you. It just has been painfully out in So how can I make it work with keeping it in ? it is anyway just 15 cm space, which would not give enough space for a good insulation of 30 cm for mineral woll i believe. What is the best way to add below the insulation now to get things well sound insulated?
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Hi. We have opened the ceiling in our living room which had previously the ceiling in 2.4m height, with a normal plasterboard and 10cm mineral/glass fibre mix. The outside noise was less, but still noticeable. We now want to use the full space of the pitched roof to create a vaulted ceiling. At the moment the rafters have been strengthened and extended to 20cm depth, from which we have left a 5cm void below the felt under the concrete tiles for air ration and added 15 cm celotex insulation. I understand that celotex is great for the heat insulation and that we overreach building specs with the 15 cm, but that it does not do much against outside noise. As we live on a very busy road we wonder what would be the best way to insulate now the roof sound wise the best / economical way? Our builder wants to put additional 2cm wooden batons now under the rafters to account for uneven areas, not filled with anything and attach the sound plasterboard to them? Will this work, or just create an sound problem? Currently I am looking into two different thickness sized acoustic boards, depending on what is available on the market currently. I read about mass loaded vinyl which is quite expensive, and which seems to be often recommended to add in-between the 2 soundboard plasterboards. And in addition I read about resilient bars, where I wonder if they are ok with the weight of two heavy soundboards, and in addition if they are actually helpful against street noise, as this is rather an airborne noise instead of ground-born, , or am I wrong? Or are they rather for ceilings where a room is used above, and so not what I need? What would you recommend to keep out the road noise please? Kind regards Manfred
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Blauberg vs Boulder
Bosi replied to Bosi's topic in Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery (MVHR)
Thank you for the link. I haven't seen this before. Just looking into it -
Blauberg vs Boulder
Bosi replied to Bosi's topic in Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery (MVHR)
Thank you. Do you have any experience with Blauberg in comparison maybe too? I know those units are rather on the low budget end, but I hope they will do well in keeping the moisture level down in a large open air living room space. Cheers -
HI. I am currently looking into which MVHR unit I should get for a small house, refitted and think about the Blauberg BLAKOMFORT-ULTRA-D105-A or the Boulder DHV-04/100B. I like with the Blauberg that it has three speed options, is quite silent ( low speed), the max 76% heat recovery and the included warranty of 5 years. But it does not offer any automatic control unit to attach. The Boulder is a bit cheaper and just offers 3 years warranty and max 70% heat recovery. They do not give any db for the low speed function, but I have contacted them regarding this. But therefore a separate control unit is available to adjust the speed according to the humidity. Somehow it looks so to me that the Blauberg is more popular. Anyone here which has them and would like to share their experience ? And of course any other input is more than welcome. Is there maybe another MVHR unit which I oversee, but is rather reasonably priced and better than those two? Thank you in advance for your thoughts and help. Cheers Manfred
