Recessing stair stringer into service void

[Stones]

Something we are considering - recessing our stair stringer into the service void so that the plasterboard wall that meets the stringer is flush with the inner face of the stringer.  Easy enough to do, the issue is how to deal with the join / junction of plasterboard and stringer.  I've discounted a shadow gap between plasterboard and stringer - don't like them.  Running some kind of flat bead or a flooring transition strip (T bar) to cover the join is a possibility, although potentially, quite clunky.  I've also thought about bringing the plasterboard over the stringer to meet the treads, but the requirement for a shadow gap between tread and plasterboard, and the potential for damage in the longer term to the plasterboard as it gets kicked and scuffed makes this a non starter.  

 

We are planning a solid balustrade on the other side, so the issue applies equally to both stringers.

 

Any other bright ideas?

Edited September 5, 2016 by Stones

[Barney12]

I assume that plan is purely for asthetics?

Ill be honest and say I'm not entirely sure you'll come up with a good solution. A shadow gap is really the way to go for such detailing and you've discounted that. 

 

Have you considered not having a stringer at all and instead go for one of the modern cantilevered designs? They do look very smart. 

[Stones]

Yes, asthetics.  

 

It was this type of thing we were thinking about

 

 

A cut stringer probably would have been the way to go, but budget prevented that and stair is already ordered.

 

Having an exposed stringer could work just as well,

 

 

all i was really pondering was whether the former was at all possible without the expense of a cut stringer.

Edited September 5, 2016 by Stones

[Barney12]

Thinking about this more.....

 

what f you were to use something like Fermacell on the stairs instead of plasterboard, bring it down over the stringer as you've suggested? It's much much tougher than standard plasterboard and would take the knocks? Rather than a shadow gap you could add (say) a 5mm seal made out of some sort of compressible foam. Kinda like compreband? It would take some careful detailing but might work?