jayroc2k Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 I am sorting out the 30yr old central heating and would like some help deciding on the two options It is a 3 storey Victorian house with 4 bedroom and 2 bath Option 1 Keep all radiators upstairs and link them to a single programmable thermostat with TRVs UFH downstairs and a single radiator, all running off an Emmeti manifold which allows control of the radiator and UFH separately Option 2 Keep all radiators upstairs but each room on a separate loop controlled via its own thermostat running off a manifold (Same as option 1)UFH downstairs and a single radiator, all running off an Emmeti manifold which allows control of the radiator and UFH separately The second option is more expensive as it requires new plumbing so each room are on a separate loop, thermostats, manifold costs etc. however, this option allows me to add a wet UFH to each of the bathrooms with some degree of control Is option 2 an overkill? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragg987 Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 Is your house well insulated or a typically cold and draughty victorian house? If the latter then, in my view, any attempt to keep individual rooms warm and others cold simply makes the whole floor feel uncomfortable and draughty. I would be inclined to treat the floor as a single zone (with programmable thermostat) and rely on radiator TRVs to trim individual rooms. If you want wet UFH in upstairs bathrooms, could you just extend them out from ground floor and leave the rest as radiators in a single zone? A lot depends on how you intend to occupy the house, living patterns, numer and age of occupants etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayroc2k Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 Thanks, It is a draughty Victorian house although I will be putting in full double glazing, Rockrool between joists and insulating the ground floor (50mm XPS/EPS/PIR as the joist is only about100mm deep resting on another 100mm joist sitting on bricks which was a terrible idea and th ejoist touching the bricks show signs of rot (close my eye and pretend I did not see them The make up will be 22-25mm battens, 50mm insulation and 16mm pipes allowing for 12mm safety margin so the flooring does not sqish the pipes Its an end terrace so I am still debating insulating the gable wall due to the original coving and a developer has put in planning for an infill house which will turn it into a mid-terrace house in the coming years (he is at least 12-18 months away from even starting) here is the emmeti manifold controller, it allows hot temp on one side and lower temp on the other side with full controls and ability to turn on/off the boiler http://emmeti.co.uk/products/t3-ufh-heating-controllers/m3v-control-sets/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 You'll likely need radiator flow temps in excess of those delivered by Ufh manifolds. You can choose to oversize the radiators to compensate but either option needs proper investigation and the system needs to be able to heat the house when it's bitterly cold and windy outdoors. . Will the Ufh downstairs be over a floating timber floor? What's the intended insulation levels where the Ufh is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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